WTN: Grosse Gewächse from Franken

2006 Horst Sauer Escherndorfer Lump Franken Silvaner Trocken Grosses Gewächs (Franken, Germany) cork closure, 13.5% - appears deep solid gold, reflective, smell nice graham cracker, lemon, delicious nose, expressive, mouthfeel wide and mouthfilling entry, touch of zip but rounded and heavier, taste delicious pointed, lemon cheesecake with graham cracker crust, precise, delicious, fresh, a ‘wow’ wine, world class finish, honey zip, this wine is an accomplishment and the upward bound of my admiration, respect, and desire for Silvaner from Franken is not in sight, delicious expressive wine for 17 euro

2006 Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Franken Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (Franken, Germany) vinolok glass stopper closure – appears deeper gold, clinging spritz, smell strong grapefruit, mineral, bit hard edged, mouthfeel great flow, taste solid well-formed fruit, great tartness, tart dryness, accomplished very full tart and dry approach, bit more oomph than mineral, lovely wine with broader shoulders, fantastic match for a few pizzas with eggplant and parmesan and olives and anchovies, impressive heft on this wine, but still very pure, very nice stuff at 21 euro

[David M. Bueker]

Did you find these in DC or Germany?

Did you find these in DC or Germany?

Germany. And even there, availability is an issue.

2006 Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Franken Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs

What a coincidence. We had this wine yesterday, although we were less favorable than you, finding the alcohol to stick out a bit too much. I enjoyed it more than others, but I think we all preferred the 05. 06 seems to have been a tough year for alcohol levels in Franken, did any of the producers talk about this during your visits?

2006 Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Franken Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs

What a coincidence. We had this wine yesterday, although we were less favorable than you, finding the alcohol to stick out a bit too much. I enjoyed it more than others, but I think we all preferred the 05. 06 seems to have been a tough year for alcohol levels in Franken, did any of the producers talk about this during your visits?

Everyone that I asked did mention that the harvest in 2006 was quite a scramble. I didn't seek out comparisons between the 2005ers and 2006ers, but folks did mention worries about the trend toward warmer temperatures and tighter harvest windows. Rudolf Fürst was quite happy with what the current environmental conditions mean for their spätburgunders and reds, but overall comments seemed to suggest some soul-searching for how producers will deal with the new challenges--particularly for making dry riesling.

And, yeah, there was a bit of oomph in the JEB (what a coincidence, there), but though I noticed it, it didn't bother me. I can imagine, though I haven't tried the 2005, that comparing it with the 2005 might make it stick out more. Sounds like a fun comparison, though . . .

wasn't there any heat in hans wirsching? don't misunderstand me, wirsching is my hero, i love his wines and will be down there in 3 weeks time just to taste the new portfolio. but the trend towards alcohol is undeniable. i had big discussions with werner probst - he sort of agrees and blames the climate change. however, modern winemaking techniques (designed to increase the energy intake of grapes and their ripening process) are certainly not the best way to control alcohol levels.

this being said, franken remains for me the overall most appealing region for dry white wines in germany - the additional spiciness (that one finds in austrian wines) brings an intrinsic balance and sapiness.

wasn't there any heat in hans wirsching? don't misunderstand me, wirsching is my hero, i love his wines and will be down there in 3 weeks time just to taste the new portfolio. but the trend towards alcohol is undeniable..

I don't have my notes in front of me, but if I remember correctly, we liked the 06 Wirsching silvaners much better than the rieslings. 14.5% for the riesling was pretty tough stuff.

but the trend towards alcohol is undeniable.

we liked the 06 Wirsching silvaners much better than the rieslings. 14.5% for the riesling was pretty tough stuff.

I'm curious . . . is Riesling more at risk than Silvaner from the trend in environmental conditions paired with current vititcultural/winemaking practices? My conversations centered on dry Rieslings and the Silvaners were all so new to me and so delicious that I didn't think to ask if the trends affected them as well.