by Dale Williams » Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:50 pm
I braved traffic to attend the "Real Wine Attack" a tasting of Louis-Dressner wines sponsored by Chambers Street Wines. Held at a restaurant (Cercle Rouge) in Tribeca to relieve last year's crowding. However, I arrived to find a line outside. It moved quickly, and I found myself inside. It was really crowded, though I thought the crowd was mostly polite and good-spirited. With the crush of people and the huge numbers of wines, I set up a criteria for what I should taste:
1) producers I like or have heard good things about
2) try to stick to wines I've not tasted nor own
3) try to stick to things I can afford (actually, I only skipped a Cote-Rotie based on this, most wines were under $20, and almost all under $50)
4) go for the gaps in crowds.
Here are my impressions of some wines (I actually tried to do whites then reds, but this is order they are in program, I can't remember order I tasted!). I only tasted maybe a third of wines.
NV Renardat-Fache Bugey Cerdon
Actually last wine I tasted. Fun and fiesty, like previous batches
2007 Pepiere Muscadet
a bit leaner than '05/'06, but nice
2006 Pepiere “Cuvee Eden” Muscadet
Soft and cuddly, nice chalk, good length. I buy
2005 Pepiere "Granite de Clisson" Muscadet
OK, so I own this one. Big a bit closed, I'm holding mine
2006 Closel "La Jalousie" Savennieres
Good, open, giving.
2005 Closel "Clos Papillon" Savennieres
Much bigger, probably better than the Jalousie in long run, but less giving now
NV Pinon Brut
Nice batch, apple pie with bubbles. I buy
2007 Pinon "Silex Noir" Vouvray
New wine to me, very tasty. Mineral, peaches and mango, good length
2002 Pinon "Tradition" Vouvray
I liked this when it ws young, wouldn't have thought of cellaring. This is very tasty, chalk meets quince and apple.
(there was also a '89 Pinon sticky, but I thought it might screw up my palate even more than it already was, and unfortunately never made it back)
2006 Manciat "Franclieu" Macon-Charnay
Nice, crisp, clean,
2006 Manciat "Franclieu" Macon-Charnay Vieilles Vignes
A little oak, bolder, sassy, I like. Woman next to me says "too sweet." I'm guessing she means the oak profile, but I find it restrained, and will keep eye out for its arrival
2007 Vins Contes/Lemasson Sois Mignon
One of my few so-so marks, no notes
2007 Vins Contes/Lemasson Le Puits
This I liked a bit better, crisp and sharp (I think this was SB?)
2007 Filliatreau "Printemps" Saumur-Champigny
Light and pretty, tasty and easy if not complex
2006 Filliatreau "La Grande Vignolle" Saumur-Champigny
Just as pretty, but not as light(weight). A nice boldly flavored Cab Franc. Maybe a step behind the '05 Grand Vignolle, but still very tasty. I buy
2005 Filliatreau 2005 Saumur Champigny Vieilles Vignes
Tobacco, smoke, and red fruit. This could do well as a ringer in a Right Bank tasting. I like a lot.I buy
2007 Brun (Terres Dorees) Beaujolais Blanc
As always, fresh and clean Chardonnay. Nice chalky finish
2007 Brun (Terres Dorees) FRV 100
A fun and frothy rose, in the Bugey Cerdon tradition. No thinking, just smiling. I buy
2006 Tete (Clos du Fief) Julienas
Delicious, straightforward, yet with complexity and elegance. I buy
2006 Tete (Clos du Fief) "Cuvee Prestige" Julienas
Folks around me were raving, but I preferred the regular.
2006 Desvignes "Cote de Py" Morgon
Tannic but good
2006 Desvignes " Javernieres" Morgon
Softer and less tannic, good length.
2005 Texier Macon-Bussieres
Truly zippy acidity, big for Macon, clean
2005 Texier Saint-Gervais Cotes du Rhone
This could pass for CdP, but I find the red fruit jamminess too intense. It does have a good acidic backbone, but not my flavor profile
2005 Texier Brezeme Cotes du Rhone
Good but not overwhelming acidity, red and black fruit, leather. I buy
2003 Radikon "Oslavje" Friuli Venezia
Never understood the fuss over Radikon, this doesn't sway me. Nutty and oxidized. Interesting, but not a buy.
2003 Radikon Ribolla Gialla
OK, I take it back. I understand the fuss. This is cool. Sure, a little funky, but with rich fruit and great length. I buy.
.
2003 Radikon "Jakot"
Pourer explains to me that name is "Tokaj" backwards- their reaction to EU rules. I like this as much as the Ribolla, good wine. I take back everything I said. Radikon rules.
Despite the crowds, an informative event. I skipped some faves like Baudry and Breton because I had bought or tried most of the wines, and couldn't penetrate the crowds at a few others like Descombes, CRB, etc. But certainly worthwhile.