WTN: Two really good WA red blend buys

I delivered a donated wine tasting recently, which featured Washington state Bordeaux style blends. There were two flights: right bank style and left bank style. The right bank style wines were dominated by Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc; the left bank style wines were dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. Each flight had four wines, which were blind tasted. The tasters all had a list describing which wines were in each flight, but the tasting order was random. I ended up correctly identifying two wines in each flight. However, the ones I got wrong tell a very interesting story.

In the right bank flight, I mistook the 2005 Desert Wind Ruah ($20 new winery price*) for another wine costing $37.
In the left bank flight, I mistook the 2003 Robert Karl Claret ($21) for another wine costing $50.

For me, this is a really good indication that these lower priced wines are a very good value. The 2005 Desert Wine Ruah is still available, although the winery raised the price to $20 per bottle. (* Coincidentally, this wine just received a very favorable 90 point rating from Wine Spectator.) However, wine already in the distribution system is likely to reflect the old ($16) price. Unfortunatley, there is no way to get the 2003 Robert Karl Claret anymore, but the 2005 bottling is still available. It should be at least as good, if not better than, the 2003 wine, because 2005 was a spectacular vintage for Washington red wine.

Good luck finding these wines. If you are interested in seeing the complete lineup, send me a quick note.

-- Clark

[Jenise]

I delivered a donated wine tasting recently, which featured Washington state Bordeaux style blends. There were two flights: right bank style and left bank style. The right bank style wines were dominated by Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc; the left bank style wines were dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. Each flight had four wines, which were blind tasted. The tasters all had a list describing which wines were in each flight, but the tasting order was random. I ended up correctly identifying two wines in each flight. However, the ones I got wrong tell a very interesting story.

In the right bank flight, I mistook the 2005 Desert Wind Ruah ($20 new winery price*) for another wine costing $37.
In the left bank flight, I mistook the 2003 Robert Karl Claret ($21) for another wine costing $50.

For me, this is a really good indication that these lower priced wines are a very good value. The 2005 Desert Wine Ruah is still available, although the winery raised the price to $20 per bottle. (* Coincidentally, this wine just received a very favorable 90 point rating from Wine Spectator.) However, wine already in the distribution system is likely to reflect the old ($16) price. Unfortunatley, there is no way to get the 2003 Robert Karl Claret anymore, but the 2005 bottling is still available. It should be at least as good, if not better than, the 2003 wine, because 2005 was a spectacular vintage for Washington red wine.

Good luck finding these wines. If you are interested in seeing the complete lineup, send me a quick note.

I'd be interested in seeing the rest of the list, Clark. But why not post all here?

-- Clark

I'd be interested in seeing the rest of the list, Clark. But why not post all here?

OK ... here's the list. The tasting notes for each wine come from a variety of sources: reviews, winemaker notes, my notes, etc. Naturally, prices for each wine will vary, depending on where you purchase, but they typically reflect winery suggested retail. -- Clark

Warm-up Wine
NV Jaillance Cuvée de l'Abbaye Brut Cremant de Bordeaux $15
This wine is pale yellow; a hint of grapefruit brings vivacity to its fine and elegant nose. It is crisp and tasty, with good acidity and finish. From one of France's largest sparkling wine producers outside of the Champagne region, it is a fine alternative to higher priced Champagne. Made from 100% Semillon. 12.0% ABV

Flight #1: Wines Made in the Right Bank Style
2005 Desert Wind Ruah Wahluke Slope Red Wine $20
Crafted from fruit grown in the Columbia Valley of Washington. This full-bodied, Bordeaux-inspired blend is enveloped in a lush core of concentrated blackberry fruit with a hint of anise on the palate. It has hints of toasted oak and almond spice, as well as a rich garnet color, which is complemented by soft, velvety tannins and a lingering finish. A blend of Merlot (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Cabernet Franc (15%). 14.0% ABV

2004 Soos Creek Sundance Red Wine $23
This Columbia Valley Red Wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc (50%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%). The result is a wonderful dinner wine with good complexity in both aroma and taste. It is relatively soft and easy drinking, with enough structure to age for a few years. 14.1% ABV

2003 Basel Cellars Walla Walla Valley Red Wine $36
Lovely dark fruit with medium tannin; beautifully structured. Made in the fashion of a St. Emilion right bank Bordeaux, it is a blend of Merlot (56%) and Cabernet Franc (44%). 14.9% ABV

2005 Saviah Big Sky Cuvée $37
This Columbia Valley wine is superbly balanced with beautiful aromas of black cherry and rich dark fruit with a touch of dark chocolate, cinnamon and spice. The complex flavors are joined with a lush mouth feel and a long seductive finish. It is a blend of Merlot (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (24%), Cabernet Franc (14%), Malbec (3%) and Petit Verdot (2%). 14.1% ABV


Flight #2: Wines Made in the Left Bank Style
NV Chinook Yakima Valley Red Wine $15
A non-vintage 3-year blend that is soft enough for youthful consumption. It has good aroma and flavors, and a nice balance of acid and tannin. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%) and Merlot (28%). Serafina Restaurant in Seattle calls Chinook “... Washington State’s most underrated winery.” 13.0% ABV

2003 Robert Karl Claret $21
Ripe and generous with chewy cherry fruit backed up by wonderful flavors of mocha and baker's chocolate. Beautiful, inviting aromas of ripe red fruits with wafts of mint and toast. In the mouth, the wine delivers intense layers of juicy red and black fruit, light spice and pepper, and plenty of furry tannins. Made by a boutique winery in Spokane with grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills, it is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Merlot (17%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Petit Verdot (10%) and Malbec (10%). 14.8% ABV

2002 Powers Meritage $30
Very dark color, with lovely deep aromas. This wine has good body with complex flavors of dark fruit, yet with the Cabernet Franc coming though nicely. Well-balanced acid and tannin gives it good structure. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc (25%). 14.0% ABV

2005 Spring Valley Frederick $50
The nose is bright with scents of licorice and blackberry. The mouth feel is huge with a concentration of dark ripe black fruit. The tannins are richly present with exceptional quality, adding to a lingering finish. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Merlot (40%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot (1%). 15.5% - 15.9% ABV

** End of List **

[Jenise]

Clark, thanks. I'm almost embarrassed to say, though, that the wine on your list I'm most excited about is that 100% sparkling semillon--I had no idea such a wine exists! What did you think of it?

Re the rest, I have to comment that as a wine shopper I find Washington wines very confusing when they use the designation "red wine" and I felt the same confusion reading your list. There are the blends that are deliberately made in emulation of the Bordeaux style, and then there are the red blends that are almost accidentally in the Bordeaux style in that they are simply what the winemaker had left over or didn't think was good enough for his premium cuvee. Yours are mostly the former, though judging by the price and knowing what Karl charges for his single grape wines, I'd think his Claret is the latter. I'm impressed, though, that it had the most expensive flavor for you though I can't comment on any comparisons to the Frederick--I've yet to try any Spring Valley wines as nearly every description I read suggests they go pretty heavy on the oak.

What were your favorites? And were any major disappointments?

Jenise, Why should you be embarrassed? You know what appeals most to you, and you did just happen to focus on a most unique wine in the list. I take no offense whatsoever by this. In fact, when I deliver a tasting, I always point out the dump bucket, and let the attendees know I will not be offended if they pour out a wine that does not appeal to them.

That Brut Cremant de Bordeaux is a very unique wine. I first tasted it 8 months ago when one of our tasting group members served it one night. I liked it so much that several days later, I went out and purchased the 1/2 case remaining at the wine shop where she found it. It is very distinctly Semillon, and will not necessarily appeal to those people, who do not care for that flavor profile. On the other hand, it is a good way to introduce people to the world of Semillon. Lastly, at a case discounted price, it is darn good QPR; that is another reason why I served it.

Your insight about the red blends is very good, so let me explain my thought process. When I put together a tasting like this, I try to find very good-to-excellent quality wines (fitting the theme) that cross multiple price points. I like giving tasters the opportunity to discover new enjoyable wines in the under-$20 range, just as much as serving them really good wines in the over-$30 range.

I honestly do not have very much history with Robert Karl wines, but I knew that their Claret is very solid contender in that $20 price range. Furthermore, I had a couple of these bottles in my collection, and it is nice to be able to present some wines that are not necessary right off the store shelf. Furthermore, I was quite confident that none of the attendees would have tasted it before; hence a new experience for them.

You are right about the Spring Valley wines; the 2005 Frederick is quite heavily into oak (and alcohol). I decanted this wine several hours before serving to ensure it was approachable.

Favorites?? Now you are putting me on the spot. On the Right Side, my favorites were the Desert Wind Ruah and the Basel Cellars Red. On the Left Side, my favorites were the Robert Karl Claret and the Powers Meritage.

-- Clark