WTN: Defaix Chablis, Petaluma Riesling and Orlando St Hugo

Last night we had a belated family birthday bash which included the following outstanding wines -

Bernard Defaix 2005 Chablis 1er Cru "Côte de Léchet" - what an impressive first showing - intensely mineral and steely nose housing an abundance of rapier-like citrus (limes/lemons), oyster shell and seaspray. Similarly etched palate, although, surprisingly, quite generous and mouthfilling with typical Chablis grippy chalky/minerally acidity and an explosively long, invigorating finish. Went ohso well with the freshly shucked 3 year old Sydney rock oysters. Needs a calming year or two to be at its best but performed brilliantly in this instant with the oysters. Long cellaring window anticipated. 92 points

Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2005 - this opened more "ready for business" than my previous bottle, although the net result was identical. Lovely juice. 93 points

http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15301

Orlando St. Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 1988 - I've always regarded 1988 an extremely good year for many Coonawarra producers. This wine, somewhat remarkably, continues to hang in there, exhibiting a terrific melange of mature cooler-climate Cabernet characters, akin to an excellent effort from Bordeaux (but in the older, more austere classic style). Very mature brick red hue; beautifully developed, classic Coonawarra nose and palate of weedy blackcurrants, cedar and sweet earth with added complexity from notes of old saddle leather, cigar box, soft licks of menthol and fallen autumn leaves; all seamlessly meshed with not a hair out of place. A smooth, polished, perfectly poised and integrated Coonawarra Cabernet revealing wonderful delineation, a decidedly cuddly personality, marvellous balance and stupendous length. 93 points

Three wonderful wines with some great fare.

Dale,
I'd enjoyed teh 2002 Defaix Chablis AOC, from below Lechet and presumably below it in quality.
Charles

• 2002 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Chablis (7/6/2007)
  Wellfleet. Definitely less fruit evident than a year earlier, and not the better for it. Drink up.
• 2002 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Chablis (7/1/2006)
  In Wellfleet. Less tropicality than last bottle, but otherwise similar showing with...again...sauteed scallops. Not as challenging as more austere chablis but plenty of minerality and acid.
• 2002 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Chablis (12/30/2005)
  In Eastman with sauteed scallops and stir-fried snow crab. Initial attack is quite forward fruit with even some tropicality, but then terrific minerality joins through the midpalate and dominates a long finish. Plenty of acid. The dilemma--- to drink sooner or later. Awfully good now while less open Chablis matures, but I'm sure it has the stuff for aging too.
• 2002 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Chablis (12/17/2005)
  Tasted in store w Michael Kane pouring. Comes from Kimmerigian soil below premiere cru vineyard Lechet.
  Very ripe fruit, segueing into intense minerality that goes on and on. Delicious now but I'm sure will evolve well over a few years.