2002 Gravner, Ribolla Giulia Anfora (magnum):
I am reminded of Chartreuse (the real one) with its composite herb formula that creates not only significant complexity but depth of flavor; that, and fresh Ranier cherries with a stony, mineral backbone and substantial tannin. Tasted blind (literally) I can’t imagine many folks picking this out as a white wine. Dark yellow in color that turned brassy over the course of the afternoon. No oxidation at first and then, about 6 hours in, hints of it on the nose and palate. But seriously juicy and, thankfully so, as the tannin requires it. 12.5% alcohol, a unique wine and, for my tastes, incomparable. $170 for the big bottle.
2001 Sella, Lessona:
Smoke, earth, Baker’s chocolate, dark fruit and stone on the nose – complex and alluring; rich and seamless in the mouth with similar flavors and complexity, and, a nice long echo to all of the flavors. I’m told by certain folks that this needs time – I don’t see it. It may last well and even develop but this is very fine nebbiolo right now. And at $26, a no brainer.
N/V Marquis de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva:
Crisp, clean, bone dry but still fruit flavored and a steady bead; delightful bubbly – at about $9.
2006 Qupé, Syrah Central Coast:
My fifth bottle of this in the last two weeks and I finally found one that was a little tighter than the others. Left recorked on the counter overnight, it was just as good as the other five. I think this is one of the truest varietal syrahs in the market right now and worth every penny of $17.
2005 d’Angerville, Bourgogne:
12.5% and about $29; the concentration and depth of a premier cru, a very firm structure and yet well integrated, this comes across as hard in the mouth, a bit raw but very Volnay. Has everything needed to become much more than simple Bourgogne but needs considerable cellar time.
2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Semper Excelsior – Terroir de Schistes:
Silky but not soft, bright but not acidic, deep but not over-extracted, mouth-filling but weightless, complex but focused – I think great wines always have such paradoxes; its all about perfect balance and endless length and this wine is at the top of the heap. I can not think of white wine I enjoy more. And I am anxious to see what this will become with long-term cellaring. 12.5% alcohol and $20.
2006 Robert Weil, Riesling Trocken:
11.5%, Qba and AP 091 06; a little closed on the nose with white fruit and stone smells; much nicer in the mouth as it shows some layers of fruit and mineral with a fine texture and good sustain. One of my favorite dry rieslings, year in and year out, this has a bit more heft to it then most vintages but its still bone-dry. $17.
2006 do Ferreiro, Albariño Cepas Vellas:
Very complex nose with lime skin, brine, smoke, spice and sea-air weaving in and out of crushed white grape and peach aromas; almost full-bodied in the mouth but absent weight, brown spices, good depth, flavors follow the nose, firm acidity, perfect balance and a steely delivery not unlike young Chablis; superb length and a very detailed finish. Not your typical albariño this is much more concentrated and serious and I suspect it will age well. 13%, about $35 and worth it.
Best, Jim