WTN: Don't like Pinotage? Try this

I'd never really been a fan of Pinotage - always a strange-fruited often-burnt rubbery experience with a palate that didn't quite deliver - until I tried Kaapzicht's. It's since become a (relatively-)regular go-to drink when I'm in the mood for the style. The 2003 (Stellenbosch) has a merky-deep purpley appearance, with a rim that's just starting to darken. The nose shows earth-blown plum and cherry, inviting sweet juicy berries, and some lift with maybe a dusting of spice. It has a juicy palate of berries that's really refreshing and carries through to a mid-palate of alcohol-rounded lacticity and vanillin oak through to a finish of moderately firm sandy tannins. It's not really complex, but it maintains interest. At around £10 (~€13, ~US$20) it's pretty reasonably priced. It has converted me to the idea that Pinotages can be nice.

I haven't seen that one here in Ontario, though it might yet get featured sometime at Vintages.

Personally I'm at the opposite end of the spectrum: my favourite Pinotages are the "old style" leathery, astringent types with plenty of banana and "paintbox" esters - the very style that drew, and continues to draw, so much ire among wine literati. I should be happy because ordinarily it would translate into more of such Pinotage for curmudgeonly holdouts like me Alas, the LCBO's once fine selection of modestly priced, old-style Pinotage has been replaced with significantly more expensive internationalized offerings.

my favourite Pinotages are the "old style" leathery, astringent types with plenty of banana and "paintbox" esters... the LCBO's once fine selection of modestly priced, old-style Pinotage has been replaced with significantly more expensive internationalized offerings.

Interesting to hear you're a fan of that style Paul. As much as I personally don't much like the "trad" style, it's saddening to know the LCBO has essentially dropped it.

Interesting to hear you're a fan of that style Paul. As much as I personally don't much like the "trad" style, it's saddening to know the LCBO has essentially dropped it.

I don't think they've dropped it. It's just that wines like that are not being made any more -- thank goodness!

Lots of old time SA red wines were leathery and astringent wines, it wasn't specific to Pinotage. The acetone flavours were due to winemaking practises, the cause of which are now understood and avoided.

Ben, if you enjoyed the Kaapzicht, look out for the premium bottling under the Steytler name. They're expensive (£18-20) unfortunately.

Kaapzicht (meaning Cape View -- you can see the harbour of Cape Town from their vineyards) is owned by the Steytler family. Winemaker Danie Steytler is one of the nicest people in the wine business. If you're at LIWF next month, Yngvild and Danie are usually there pouring. Look for their Cape Blend 'Steytler Vison' - the 2001 vintage won the International Trophy for the Best Red Blend in the 2004 International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC).

my favourite Pinotages are the "old style" leathery, astringent types with plenty of banana and "paintbox" esters... the LCBO's once fine selection of modestly priced, old-style Pinotage has been replaced with significantly more expensive internationalized offerings.

Interesting to hear you're a fan of that style Paul. As much as I personally don't much like the "trad" style, it's saddening to know the LCBO has essentially dropped it.

Actually, Zonnebloem typified this style for me for many years. When I recently inquired into why the LCBO had dropped this long-standing product, I was told that it wasn't they who dropped it, but the distributor ... I'm not sure what the true story is.

I have the highest admiration for what Peter is doing in promoting the Pinotage name, but he and I have a friendly disagreement about the merits of the old bitter/bretty/leathery Pinotages. The bitter/leathery ones went wonderfully with my homemade extra-old-cheddar perogies topped with bacon and onion bits; now I can't get precisely the sort of Pinotages that worked so well with that dish. So the changes are not all good!

Also, a very big gripe of mine with the new Pinotages is the frequently excessive alcohol levels: 14.5-15% seems the new norm. I don't care what anyone says - give me back my 12% Libertas for $7.95! One of the best table wines I could ever get at the LCBO.