58 Degrees in Sacramento is probably my favorite wine bar in the area- their list is constantly evolving, making it a treat to stop in once in a while and see what's new. It doesn't hurt that most of the servers there know me by name. I was in the neighborhood on Thursday and decided to try whatever I noticed on the menu that I hadn't had yet. The verdict: Two hits, two misses.
Falcor Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley) 2003
I am not one to hate on buttery chards- I'm a fan of Salus and Chalk Hill, and both of those labels produce chards where butter is the dominant characteristic. However, the Falcor tastes not so much like butter as the "butter" that gets pumped onto your popcorn at a movie theater. If I concentrated hard enough, I could ride into the curl on the tsunami of synthetic butter-like substance and pick up faint notes of pineapple and coconut. The overall effect was akin to sipping a pina colada with a mouthful of buttered popcorn Jelly Bellies. Not recommended.
Gironia Biferno Rosso Montepulciano Blend (Campomarino) 2001
This is more like it. A perfectly balanced blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico, with mocha and just a tiny hint of Cayenne pepper on the attack, melting into raspberry and jasmine on the finish. I could (and perhaps should) have sipped this all evening. At $23, this stuff is a great deal- if my description sounds up your alley, try to track down a bottle.
Prazo de Roriz (Douro) 2005
Interesting little wine, made from a blend of four varietals normally reserved for the production of Port. The result is a rich, smooth wine with the taste profile of a good port without the sweetness. The nose hits with a strong aroma of licorice. Once on the palate, it calls to mind chocolate pudding topped with blackberries. This would be a perfect companion to a temperate evening on the balcony, which is how I envision revisiting this wine a few times throughout the summer.
Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 2004
My server- who remembered how much I'd enjoyed the 2003 Chateau Montelena- recommended that I try this, its replacement on the menu. Color me unimpressed. This couldn't be further from the sublime floral subtleties of its predecessor. I'm the type of person who has no problem with an oakbomb, but the full-frontal oak attack here clashed with its overtly jammy Zinfandel-like characteristics, bringing to mind a jar of Smucker's hurled at a tree stump. Twenty Rows makes a similar but far superior cab for 1/3 the price. Don't believe the hype.