World-wide Riesling tasting..a great report here!!

Hi everyone, I found this on HRH Jancis website.

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/20080329

The event should have been called 'In Praise of Riesling from everywhere but .....' I find it strange that the event was held in New Zealand .... in Waipara, which could be regarded as the riesling capital of New Zealand ..... an area that produces rieslings that mimic both Mosel and Alsace .... yet no New Zealand rieslings were included in the formal line-ups of tastings.

[David M. Bueker]

I read this account a day or so ago & was stunned at the bizarre flights. The sweet then drier then sweeter then drier flights would have had my head spinning.

The event should have been called 'In Praise of Riesling' from everywhere but ..... I find it strange that the event was held in New Zealand .... in Waipara, which could be regarded as the riesling capital of New Zealand ..... an area that produces rieslings that mimic both Mosel and Alsace .... yet no New Zealand rieslings were included in the formal line-ups of tastings.

Sue,

Having been in the wine business in the Finger Lakes, and having just witnessed a massive wine tasting titled New York something or other, and not a New York wine in the tasting, I completely understand your feeling.

As for Riesling, I laugh at the know-it-all wine geeks with the exploration genes of a door knob.

Ah well, a Not so Great Report!
I saw/posted this as I was heading out of the door to shovel so did not get a chance to look over properly (wink).

I love riesling but I am not too good with the whole age thing. Just curious how more experienced riesling appreciators on the site would interpret the notes on the Donnoff. It sounds pretty impressive, so would it be most likely that the time to drink this wine is now?

"Known for crafting some of the most sought after Rieslings in the world, full of balance and fruit purity, the appropriate finish to three flights of international Riesling came in the form of a Dönnhoff, Oberhäuser Brucke Riesling Spätlese 2003 Nahe. Unlike the hot vintage might suggest, this was a wine of subtleties, refinement and delicateness. The reticent aromatics divulged flowers, white peach, crushed rocks and freshly cut apple, with just a smattering of fusel character. Delicate and elegant, poised on a knife-edge balance of sugar and acid. The alluring flavours of the palate mirror the aromatics, with particularly strong apple notes and lots of citrus, eventually breaking free of the feminine shackles to culminate in a big, boisterous, long finish. A gently penetrating texture reinforced the whole package, delivering the final impression of a first class wine."

Tom V

The event should have been called 'In Praise of Riesling' from everywhere but ..... I find it strange that the event was held in New Zealand .... in Waipara, which could be regarded as the riesling capital of New Zealand ..... an area that produces rieslings that mimic both Mosel and Alsace .... yet no New Zealand rieslings were included in the formal line-ups of tastings.

There is a passing mention of a substantial looking New Zealand component after the formal international tasting. But yes, a side by side would have been nice. Depends what the organisers wanted out of this I guess.

cheers

Andrew

Not to mention the annoying reference to Scharzhofberger as "quintessential Mosel Riesling"..

Is that really what this world is coming to.

Ah well, a Not so Great Report!
I saw/posted this as I was heading out of the door to shovel so did not get a chance to look over properly (wink).

Bob,
Max is a very passionate and evocative writer despite his recent decision to move into retail. My litte beef is what was being reported on.

Not to mention the annoying reference to Scharzhofberger as "quintessential Mosel Riesling"..
Is that really what this world is coming to.

In defense of the author, I will point out that knowing what is "quintessential" or not for some of us down-under folk is pretty difficult if there has not been too much exposure to these styles of wines.

Cheers,
Sue

I agree with David I would find the mix of dry and off-dry to almost sweet a bit disorienting.

But a little tough to criticize for leaving out NZ. It sounds like the focus of the whole event was NZ Riesling, and this was an introductory seminar to take a sampling of other Rieslings across the world. After this tasting they has a " host of Rieslings from the different producers of the Waipara Valley. Museum releases, barrel samples and decade verticals", then the seminars, and then a dinner served with Waipara Rieslings.

Not to mention the annoying reference to Scharzhofberger as "quintessential Mosel Riesling"..
Is that really what this world is coming to.

In defense of the author, I will point out that knowing what is "quintessential" or not for some of us down-under folk is pretty difficult if there has not been too much exposure to these styles of wines.

Hey, I'm the last person to criticize people for having limited exposure. I can't visit all the regions I would like to, and don't expect others to necesarily do that.

But, I guess I'm just a stickler for considering the Saar distinct from the Mosel, and I think those distinctions should be preserved.

There is a passing mention of a substantial looking New Zealand component after the formal international tasting. But yes, a side by side would have been nice. Depends what the organisers wanted out of this I guess.

cheers

Andrew

Andrew,
From what I understand, the Waipara component was a walk around tasting, with winemakers pouring their wines from their own stands. I'm not sure if any other NZ regions were represented.
I still think it was an opportunity missed. At least one NZ wine in each flight would have showed how they performed against the revered benchmarks chosen for the tasting.
Cheers,
Sue

I agree with David I would find the mix of dry and off-dry to almost sweet a bit disorienting.

But a little tough to criticize for leaving out NZ. It sounds like the focus of the whole event was NZ Riesling, and this was an introductory seminar to take a sampling of other Rieslings across the world. After this tasting they has a " host of Rieslings from the different producers of the Waipara Valley. Museum releases, barrel samples and decade verticals", then the seminars, and then a dinner served with Waipara Rieslings.

Forgive me, Just a case of sour grapes in that I didn't get to go.
I just find that at this kind of wine event, attention gets paid to the wines in the formal flights. You get to taste wines side by side. You can compare and contrast.
Once you start the 'walk arounds', there is so much distraction around you - people talking to you, winemakers talking to you, winemakers telling how x, y or z rated their wine 5 stars or 95 points. And unless you grab more than one glass, there is no compare and contrast possibilities either.

in Waipara, which could be regarded as the riesling capital of New Zealand ..... an area that produces rieslings that mimic both Mosel and Alsace

Sue, I think mimic is a pretty strong word here. Surely the Riesling from New Zealand can be good, but implying that they can match Germany, Alsace or Austria in quality is ridiculous. The same goes for our own domestic Riesling in the US (I'm not just picking on NZ!)

in Waipara, which could be regarded as the riesling capital of New Zealand ..... an area that produces rieslings that mimic both Mosel and Alsace

Surely the Riesling from New Zealand can be good, but implying that they can match Germany, Alsace or Austria in quality is ridiculous. The same goes for our own domestic Riesling in the US (I'm not just picking on NZ!)

You might want to say that's just your opinion, Bill.

in Waipara, which could be regarded as the riesling capital of New Zealand ..... an area that produces rieslings that mimic both Mosel and Alsace

Surely the Riesling from New Zealand can be good, but implying that they can match Germany, Alsace or Austria in quality is ridiculous. The same goes for our own domestic Riesling in the US (I'm not just picking on NZ!)

You might want to say that's just your opinion, Bill.

Thomas,

I'm not out to rip apart NZ Riesling or any other wine made anywhere else (maybe Dolcetto grown in Napa.) New Zealand makes some absolutely delicious wines and they have much to be proud of. But the simple fact remains that some places on this earth are both best suited for certain vines and endowed with winemakers gifted enough (and experienced enough) to bring the greatest wines to realization. Maybe New Zealand will someday achieve greatness in the realm of Riesling, but who outside of a few locals would argue that now is that day? If I said that 'in my opinion' Minnesota Chardonnay is as good as Puligny-Montrachet, I'd expect to be challenged.

-Bill

The same goes for our own domestic Riesling in the US (I'm not just picking on NZ!)

Well, Bill, if you're saying that Finger Lakes Rieslings aren't grown in the right place, and that the region doesn't enjoy the benefit of gifted winemakers, you are hereby challenged...next time you are out this way, call me.

in Waipara, which could be regarded as the riesling capital of New Zealand ..... an area that produces rieslings that mimic both Mosel and Alsace

Surely the Riesling from New Zealand can be good, but implying that they can match Germany, Alsace or Austria in quality is ridiculous. The same goes for our own domestic Riesling in the US (I'm not just picking on NZ!)

Don't you want to say the 'best' from Germany, Alsace or Austria. I've tasted some pretty poor quality German riesling in my time and I haven't been overly enamoured with every Alsace riesling that Ive had. I can't comment on Austrian riesling as I've only tasted one or two - which is why I never mentioned that country.

But I have tasted riesling from New Zealand that is quite amazing - and could be mistaken in a blind tasting as being from Europe.

The same goes for our own domestic Riesling in the US (I'm not just picking on NZ!)

Well, Bill, if you're saying that Finger Lakes Rieslings aren't grown in the right place, and that the region doesn't enjoy the benefit of gifted winemakers, you are hereby challenged...next time you are out this way, call me.

Thomas - is that challenge open to me? I'd love to taste some Fingers Lake rieslings alongside some NZ, Alsace, German and Australian.

Wishfully thinking,
Sue

The event should have been called 'In Praise of Riesling' from everywhere but ..... I find it strange that the event was held in New Zealand .... in Waipara, which could be regarded as the riesling capital of New Zealand ..... an area that produces rieslings that mimic both Mosel and Alsace .... yet no New Zealand rieslings were included in the formal line-ups of tastings.

Sue,

Having been in the wine business in the Finger Lakes, and having just witnessed a massive wine tasting titled New York something or other, and not a New York wine in the tasting, I completely understand your feeling.

As for Riesling, I laugh at the know-it-all wine geeks with the exploration genes of a door knob.

Thomas and Sue,
if you were to include the best examples of both regions in riesling, which would it be? maybe we can found them in europe and do such a tasting!

I'm wondering if anyone here (David?) has tasted the star of the report, the 2005 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese.

if you were to include the best examples of both regions in riesling, which would it be? maybe we can found them in europe and do such a tasting!

I'm afraid you would have a hard time finding the NY ones in Europe. But if you do, it's likely to be Dr. Konstantin Frank and Hermann Wiemer.

Oswaldo: the Egon Müller Spätlese is as good as it sounds ... and even better.

Thomas: thanks for the recos. A friend of mine imports Wiemer and I had a few Johannisberger (semi-dry and dry): 1999, 2000, 2001 and 2002 ... It is very good stuff (probably the best riesling that I have tasted from outside of the classical parts of Europe) but develops petrol tones after 6-7 years. We had it already in a comparative (double blind) tasting and it did really not do well ... Never heard of the other one, I will search

[David M. Bueker]

Not including the New Zealand wines in the sit down was probably better for them. The flights were a disorganized mixture of dry and sweet, and would probably not have shown the NZ wines in the best light.

I like the best Rieslings of New Zealand, but their style is different from Germany, Alsace & Austria. Unless flights are organized with greater care than the ones in the referenced tasting, stylistic differences can appear instead as quality differences,

I love riesling but I am not too good with the whole age thing. Just curious how more experienced riesling appreciators on the site would interpret the notes on the Donnoff. It sounds pretty impressive, so would it be most likely that the time to drink this wine is now?

This is a little bit of a controversial topic.

There is a school of thought which holds that Donnhoff's wines might not be built to last [for the really long haul].

But for those of us [or of you] who are still around in 30 or 40 years, I guess that time will tell, and we [or you] will discover the answer to that question.

In the meantime, though, I wouldn't waste too much time worrying that I had opened a wine too early if I had enjoyed drinking it as it was when I chose to open it.