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The Red Cat

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The Red Cat

by Covert » Sat Apr 05, 2008 5:07 am

In preparation for a dinner at New York City’s The Red Cat, I read again the novella Breakfast at Tiffany’s and watched the movie. I mentioned previously in a post the coincidence between the story and the restaurant. They both have a ‘50s New York City motif; The Red Cat was so named in both venues for similar reasons (to sever associations); and there is a main character in the story named Rusty Trawler, whilst there is a painting on the restaurant wall of a rusty trawler. The restaurant chef and part owner Jimmy Bradley says it is a remarkable coincidence, while I surmise it was potentially a subconscious association on his part when he created the restaurant. He cops to having seen the movie, but not to having read the book. I find a delightful synchronicity in the connection, which brings me into the magic of time travel and the beauty of New York.

Watching the movie for the second time (the first time many years back) a couple of evenings ago, I was nearly brought to tears by the beautiful memories of New York City in 1961. People had the freedom of ‘60s Berkeley (my third favorite venue, then), and folks crossed streets irrespective of crosswalks or traffic lights, since there were only a few cars with big fins traveling very cautiously.

Back then, at 19 years of age, I had total independence and a hefty inheritance which allowed me to do what I wanted. (As one little example, for those younger folks who will never experience “how it was,” and I fully realize they wouldn’t want to, in good conscience; I once skidded my car from an icy curve flush into a telephone pole after drinking a pitcher of Manhattans. The license plate was bent into a perfect “U” on the totaled brand new 401 Buick. The 16-year-old girl sitting in the middle of the front seat got hurt enough to require the hospital. It didn’t bother her too much then and she if fine now – I hear. I opened my door and fell into the street. Cops at the scene laughed. One was kind enough to drive me home, while another saw to the girl. The rest of the kids scampered off probably to another bar. I bought another sedan [my date car], treated the wonderful girl to the best year she might have ever had in her life – my consideration, I hope she had far better years – and that was that.) Since you could do the most in New York City, I frequented the fine hotels, nightclubs, restaurants and department stores with reckless abandon, with pretty teenage girls in tow.

The only problem (now, in thinking back, not then) was I was dumber than a stump, and missed some things which would have augmented the greatest pleasures. Part of the freedom of being a rich kid with no supervision disinclined any time spent in school. So not only had I no role models, I also had very limited education. Fortunately, I had read A Catcher in the Rye, because a smarter kid told me Holden was me, or I wouldn’t have even known about New York City. I had never heard of fine food and wine. Consequently I ate lobster, French Fries and coleslaw, or steak, virtually every night, washed down with scotch and beer.

If anybody reading this knows, it would be wonderful for me to learn; otherwise, I must somehow look up what a fine 1945 or 1947 Bordeaux would have cost then at Lutece, or whatever five-star restaurant would have been most appropriate. Whatever it cost, I could have drunk them with friends until one half a bottle was left for the clean-up crew. It might have been.
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:44 pm

While not blessed with the affluence you had bestowed upon you, I too enjoyed New York in the early 60s. Spent most of my time in the Village cafes, off-Broadway theaters, museums and McSorley's. Introduced to the last by Paul and Sarah Blackburn who lived nearly upstairs.

And I did have the fortune to be treated to a meal at Le Pavillon, but I have no recollection of wine prices there.
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:52 pm

I did find this in an old issue of Time:

In the 1960s, Petrus was introduced to American wine lovers by the late Henri Soule, owner of the tony Le Pavillon restaurant in New York. Explains Alexis Lichine, author of A Guide to the Wines and Vineyards of France: "It was served at Le Pavillon in the days when Onassis sat at a corner table. After that, Chateau Petrus became a status symbol, the sort of name dropped by people who wish to imply not only that they know wine but that they are in wine."
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:54 pm

And this in the same place.

Its buyers, however, do not exactly ration their funds. In a wild auction at the Chicago office of Christie's in 1981, one exuberant connoisseur paid $13,000 for a jeroboam (equal to six bottles) of Petrus 1961. Such princely prices have prompted Aaron of Sherry-Lehmann to call Petrus "the Rolls-Royce of all wines." Unfortunately, it is not possible to open a bottle just for a test drive.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Covert » Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:21 am

ChefJCarey wrote:I too enjoyed New York in the early 60s. Spent most of my time in the Village cafes, off-Broadway theaters, museums and McSorley's. Introduced to the last by Paul and Sarah Blackburn who lived nearly upstairs.And I did have the fortune to be treated to a meal at Le Pavillon, but I have no recollection of wine prices there.


That's neat about knowing Paul Blackburn. I had very little culture, then (not too much more now). Because I stayed in expensive hotels, sometimes for weeks at a time, I had the pleasure of hanging around with famous movie and television stars, but not famous cultured people. I, too, walked about the Village, but the only thing I remember, other than the wonderful ambience, was almost purchasing an original Walter Keene Painting, which might have cost $800, as I remember. But not sure, maybe a lot less. I used to write checks for cars and such, but only remember specifically the cost of a new 1963 Stingray, $3,800, because I purchased it at an auto show, thus had to pay a premium to pull it out. If you took that as a reverence, prices were more than an order of magnitude different. There had been some powerful inflation before 1981.

Was the City a lot more beautiful to you in the early '60s? Or does the current crowding not bother you? Did you get to San Francisco then? I did, and the Movie Vertigo shows that City as it was before the invasion. I have probably the greatest nostalgia about that place - the hungry years. It was later in the '60s, though, and I was just starting to appreciate finer food and wine. However, I had been shut off from the money, a process voluntarily initiated by me (I started to miss not having character) and strongly followed up on by members of my intervening family. I traded a favorite red 1960 Corvette convertible with a white top even Steven to a lucky guy for a piece-of-junk four door Corvair as an expression of sacrifice and change of direction, and my wife and I drove it to San Francisco with maybe a couple of hundred dollars between us. We lived in a cheap Tenderloin flat among drug sellers, pimps and prostitutes, subsisting off chili dogs, until I finally got my first job, just as our money totally ran out, and moved up a couple of blocks to Taylor and Geary Streets.
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Sun Apr 06, 2008 10:46 am

I was always around writers and poets. Labored under the delusion I was one for the longest time. (My college roommate was John Crowley - a well-respected fantasy writer.)

I had written a novella and Sara was an editor with an imprint of Random House. She liked my book. This was in the mid-60s. I had moved to New York from Bloomington ,Indiana.

Then Paul got sick and my project was tabled.

I was drafted, went to Vietnam. Came back through San Francisco (Oakland, actually, but I spent a couple of days in San Francisco.) Decided that's where I wanted to live. Moved there in 1968.

Stayed with Barbara and Marvin Garson for a few weeks. (he published the counter culture newspaper, The Express Times, and her play MacBird was at the height of its success.)Spent most of that summer then in Paris and then moved to Berkeley. I had worked in restaurants and bars in college. I grew up working in my stepfather's bakery.

Did some anti-war work with a grant from The American Friends Service Committee. Alan Strain was my sponsor and mentor. I was on the board of the first pro-GI/anti-war newspaper. Went to work in some good restaurants. Opened Mudd's in San Ramon as executive chef. Was night chef at the original Scott's on Lombard and Scott. Blah, blah, blah.

I rode a Triumph 650 motorcycle. Got run over by the Dean of Women at Berkeley West Campus High School. Took the settlement and opened a restaurant in Oakland. Stayed in the Bay Area from 1968 - 1984.

Moved to Memphis after my second son was born.

Opened and ran the Memphis Culinary Academy for over 20 years. Wrote a couple of cookbooks.

I tell a lot more stories in a memoir which is partially serialized on the eGullet web site.

I had enough of Memphis. I am now living in the Willamette Valley, in the Amity Hills.

And the writer delusion has returned.

Alice Van Leunen is fairly well known as an artist. (I've know her since high school.) She's worked in lots of different media. She's currently weaving with paper - it's more complicated than that, but I don't speak for her(she taught textiles for many years.)

Did you check out the link to her pieces I included?
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:00 am

I wanted to keep this separate from the other post.

I absolutely loved New York in that era. The cultural diversity just blew my mind constantly.

My favorite playwrights, PInter, Genet, Wilder, - seemed like all of them at the same time - had plays running off- Broadway. I saw Dylan at Gerde's Folk City right before his first album was released. I worked for a while just a couple of blocks from Central Park and used to go there. Liked the zoo.

Loved MOMA and the Guggenheim. My girlfriend went to a shrink right across from The Metropolitan - I hung there while she rapped to him. I really liked being in New York. The Fugs were playing, I had met them before and I lived right up the street from Ed Sanders' bookstore on East 10th.

I worked for a movie producer for a few months. Samuel Bronston. (My girlfriend was a good friend of his daughter.) They were hawking Fall of the Roman Empire which they'd just finished and were shooting Circus World while I was there. (I did the research for the replica of the Deadwood stage in the film.)

Damn, I'm an old fart.
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:54 pm

You got me to thinking...

Of a bizarre event that occurred right after I moved to Oregon.

A cooking school where I teach the occasional hands-on class called me and said this guy was trying to get in touch with me.

I called him. The first words out of his mouth were these:

"My name is _____ did you work for Samuel Bronston Productions in the mid 60s?"

"Er, yeah, I did." I eloquently replied. "Why?"

"I am writing a biography of him and would like to interview you."

I said fine let's pick a time.

He never called back.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Covert » Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:56 pm

ChefJCarey wrote:You got me to thinking....


Great stuff, all of it. But I am chained to non-picturesque work all week and can only "think" on the weekends, when I drink wine, at which time I will give all your very much appreciated comments their due.

Having said that, I should explain that I have a drug-specific response to alcohol. It turns my personality inside out. I go from left- to right-brained. Cool to be a split personality, as long as there are weekends and wine, and money made during the week to support them.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Covert » Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:04 am

ChefJCarey wrote:Did you check out the link to her pieces I included?


I did, yes, thanks. It’s not a medium I relate to right off the bat. Art is so individual, just like writing. I think all you can do it write and write and maybe something you write will strike a nerve with readers, assuming you can your pieces published. There is a Catch-22 as far as I am concerned, and I bet a lot of writers are caught in it. When you have a burning desire to express yourself, as I do, you set yourself apart from most people from the get-go, just in having this desire. I realized a while back that there is virtually no chance for anything I would want to write about striking any sort of nerve with anything more than a handful of people. Writers who relate the world in a similar way to the masses are often not that creative, so their work is dull, even to the masses. It takes a very special breed that can be interesting to people who are not. These are the guys who figure out stuff like American Idol and write great books.

Your peripatetic younger years sound a lot like mine, except you were a bit of an activist, while I was a hippie. I lived in Berkeley during the People’s Park episode, and through a number of anti-war rallies, such as the famous one Ken Kesey spoke at. I thought the activity was highly interesting, but I had no passion for the ideas, just the fact that other people did, and that America was undergoing a true revolution. Sensuality didn’t exist before then, except for a little in the ‘20s, I guess. I saved the copies of the Berkeley Barb through the park riot, and lost them in a basement flood last year. “Pigs Shoot to Kill!” Remember that headline? :) I loved it. Remember Frenchy, who loved all the girls? I wonder how many he got.

I collected all the Scanlons issues that were published, and somehow lost that collection, too.

Started out with a 750 Norton Commando, myself, but traded it for a new Sportster at Dudley Perkins in San Francisco in 1969, after meeting some of the most famous Angels of all time at Pete Nell’s place, a former Frisco Chapter president. My girlfriend in Oakland claimed to be Sonny Barger’s cousin, although she had little connection with him or bikers. But she took to my Sportster (in fact she got me to buy it; didn’t relate to the Limy bike) like a duck to water and the three of us had the best fling of my life. She introduced me to “fine” wine. I remember the bottle and my first taste. It was only Almadin, but a hell of a lot better than what I had been drinking. I’ve got a hundred stories from those years, but this is not the place for them.

I imagine in Oregon that you can find towns that haven’t changed much. I write about my camp in the Adirondacks. Time has stood as still there as probably any place in America. Only hikers and skiers go there; hardly anybody knows it exists; even though the park is bigger than the State of Connecticut, and known as the biggest peoples’ park in the world.

I’ll try to get to the eGullet website this weekend, because I love memoirs of folks who traveled similar two-lane blacktop.
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:32 pm

Your peripatetic younger years sound a lot like mine, except you were a bit of an activist, while I was a hippie. I lived in Berkeley during the People’s Park episode, and through a number of anti-war rallies, such as the famous one Ken Kesey spoke at. I thought the activity was highly interesting, but I had no passion for the ideas, just the fact that other people did, and that America was undergoing a true revolution. Sensuality didn’t exist before then, except for a little in the ‘20s, I guess. I saved the copies of the Berkeley Barb through the park riot, and lost them in a basement flood last year. “Pigs Shoot to Kill!” Remember that headline? :) I loved it. Remember Frenchy, who loved all the girls? I wonder how many he got.


I remember a meeting I had with Max Scherr (publisher of the Barb at an oak table in the kitchen of his house. He was trying to decide which of my combat photos to publish (I was a combat photographer/journalist for the military in Vietnam) - don't even remember which ones he decided upon. I used to read Dr Hip religiously.

I lived in the flatlands on Chestnut Street, a couple of blocks off University - just a few blocks from Spenger's.

Much more later. If I have time I'll publish the links here of the eGullet pieces - they're not that easy to find I'm told.
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:50 pm

Here're the urls to the eGullet pieces.

Warning: Those of you are are afraid of adult words and phrases and the havoc they might wreak in your universe - stay away!

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=98382

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=101767

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=106787

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=96274

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=94110

Here's the first piece. This is the one that caused them to ask me to write for them.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=93380
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Re: The Red Cat

by Bernard Roth » Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:45 pm

I guess if you are going to go to Red Cat, it might as well be for reasons of poetic sentimentality. I didn't find the food enough of an attraction to go back - not with all the excellent restaurants in the city. Food is competent, wine list is friendly, RC is a nice neighborhood bar and restaurant.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Covert » Sat Apr 12, 2008 5:11 am

Bernard Roth wrote:I guess if you are going to go to Red Cat, it might as well be for reasons of poetic sentimentality. I didn't find the food enough of an attraction to go back - not with all the excellent restaurants in the city. Food is competent, wine list is friendly, RC is a nice neighborhood bar and restaurant.


The New York Times gives it two stars, which means the food is very good by their critic's standard. We go to lots of restaurants in The City, and many of them have very good food, of course - and some are outstanding, but they cost a lot more than going to the Red Cat. There are so many guides that adequately rate food quality that nobody needs me to comment on places with good food. I tried to portray some of the spirit of The Red Cat for those folks who relate to such stuff. Dissing the Red Cat over its food quality is a little like dissing Billie Holiday over voice technicalities, I think.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Dale Williams » Sat Apr 12, 2008 9:59 pm

Covert wrote:. Sensuality didn’t exist before then, except for a little in the ‘20s, I guess..


Wow. I find this statement even wilder than the "97 is the more unique and wonderful vintage in Bordeaux" announcements. :)

I've meant to try Red Cat, heard mixed reviews, will try some time. Thanks for reminder.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Covert » Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:31 am

Dale Williams wrote:
Covert wrote:. Sensuality didn’t exist before then, except for a little in the ‘20s, I guess..


Wow. I find this statement even wilder than the "97 is the more unique and wonderful vintage in Bordeaux" announcements. I've meant to try Red Cat, heard mixed reviews, will try some time. Thanks for reminder.


Dale, if you had lived through the transition, like I did, I really believe you would appreciate that statement. I am talking about the United States, not the rest of the world. Things in America were pretty much gray flannel before the '50s. People were very uniform and went about their lockstep business and pretty much did what they were told by the employer and head of the household. Black people, who were the exception, were segregated and virtually nobody drank wine, a fact which I think best makes my case. The big shift began with Elvis (who should be recognized among the important integrationists) and greatly accelerated with the Beatles. Of course there are always exceptions to everything, but I am talking about the general zeitgeist.

The Red Cat has true personality, and like anything with a definite personality, it will have people who love it and don’t. It’s not a good family restaurant which everybody would say is fine.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Dale Williams » Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:08 am

Covert,
lots of changes happened in the Sixties, but that still doesn't make the statement that sensuality didn't exist before then any less ridiculous. Hugh Hefner made a fortune in the 50s, and stars like Mansfield, Monroe, etc were not stars due to their diction. I read recently that while pre-marital sex has been on a steady rise since the Victorian era, the 2 biggest spikes were the 40s (as women entered workforce, and men returned from war) and the 80s (the pill became available in the 60s, but it was 80s before most teens had easy access as doctors became more comfortable). Sensuality has existed since dawn of man. The Victorians had sex and read erotica, they just didn't talk about it publicly.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Covert » Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:15 pm

Dale Williams wrote:lots of changes happened in the Sixties, but that still doesn't make the statement that sensuality didn't exist before then any less ridiculous.


You are right. Looked up the word. There has almost always been a lot of sex. I should have used sensuousness. What I mean is that people didn't think they deserved, or that maybe it was wrong to have, the degree of sensuous pleasures that we all enjoy today - and I would add more appreciation of things like poetry.

If you still disagree, I can't say much more about it. Not a subject I am interested in enough to go to the wall about at the moment. I just lived in through the '40s, '50s, '60s and beyond, and I can tell you from direct experience that there was a sea change in how people related to matters of the senses during that period.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Bernard Roth » Sun Apr 20, 2008 1:52 am

Billie Holiday is a faulty analogy. Jazz aficianados rate her among the handful of greatest jazz volcalists ever. No restaurant critic rates Red Cat among the handful of best restaurants in NY.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Covert » Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:33 pm

Bernard Roth wrote:Billie Holiday is a faulty analogy. Jazz aficianados rate her among the handful of greatest jazz volcalists ever. No restaurant critic rates Red Cat among the handful of best restaurants in NY.


Just stay away and it will be okay.
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:53 pm

Bernard Roth wrote:Billie Holiday is a faulty analogy. Jazz aficianados rate her among the handful of greatest jazz volcalists ever. No restaurant critic rates Red Cat among the handful of best restaurants in NY.


She was dissed on this board in another thread.
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Re: The Red Cat

by Howie Hart » Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:07 pm

I just ran across this thread. Interesting! Strange as it may seem, I've lived in Upstate, NY all 58+ years of my life. I've never visited NY City - only changed planes there a few times. I don't consider myself a New Yorker and I don't think anyone up here does, but I guess that doesn't stop the politicians from Downstate calling us New Yorkers. One of these days, when the rush is over, I'm going to have to spend a little time in the Big City. :?
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Re: The Red Cat

by Victorwine » Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:23 pm

Hi Howie,
Unfortunately New York State is a pretty big state, and it doesn’t matter if you’re from Downstate or Upstate, we’re all ”New Yorkers”. Manhattan is a great place to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there (I can hop on the LIRR and be there in an hour or so).
A very interesting tidbit of information (IMHO) - Do you know the number one ranking agricultural county in all of NY State (from a market value stand point)? Suffolk County (Downstate) New York, Eastern Long Island. Many people living in Western and Central Suffolk County, don’t even know (or realize) this.

Salute
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Re: The Red Cat

by ChefJCarey » Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:28 am

Howie Hart wrote:I just ran across this thread. Interesting! Strange as it may seem, I've lived in Upstate, NY all 58+ years of my life. I've never visited NY City - only changed planes there a few times. I don't consider myself a New Yorker and I don't think anyone up here does, but I guess that doesn't stop the politicians from Downstate calling us New Yorkers. One of these days, when the rush is over, I'm going to have to spend a little time in the Big City. :?


It's a mind boggling place, Howie.
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