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WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

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Saina

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WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

by Saina » Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:41 pm

Vindirekt is one of the big importers in Finland and they have a pretty impressive range of wines. I was invited to taste some of their new wines. It was a big walkabout tasting, so my notes will be just as inaccurate as they always are. :D

William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2006 NB! not the Domaine stuff, but négoce: a nice, correct Chablis nose, ripe but not terribly mineral. Quite a full and fruit forward profile for Chablis, but gladly the oak of previous years is not at all visible. It is still an easy going style, enjoyable though young, pretty soft even for Chablis.

Domaine William Fèvre 1er Cru Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent 2006 was very mineral compared to the Montmains, a stronger structure, but still in a forward, approachable style. Nice. Though Fèvre doesn't seem to make a hard-core, acid driven, enamel-destroying style, I still enjoy the new, un-oaky style they produce.

Olivier Merlin Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse Vieilles Vignes 2006 was an attractive wine, without offensive oak, though some was noticable, limpid, easy-going style, but enough structure to be refreshing. Nice enough, though not terribly complex.

Olivier Merlin Pouilly-Fuissé 2006 was going towards the spectrum of oak use where I find going difficult. The structure and fruit components were in good balance, so I assume that since the oak wasn't dominant, many will find this a very attractive white Burgundy.

Ch. de Beaucastel CdP Blanc 2006 was strange, but strangely compelling. I thought that the dominant scent was of orange-peel (as in botrytis? but could it be?). Very full bodied and oily, but with tannic grip to provide some refreshing qualities as well as a touch of minerals. Nice!

Ch. Rayas CdP Blanc 2006 was very mineral and earthy, almost like a Ch. Musar white except oilier and more alcoholic. I enjoyed it very much. I think that on the table this would work like red wine because of the earthy and tannic profile.

Leonildo Pieropan Soave Calvarino 2006 is one the most delightful whites from Italy I know. Lovely, refreshing, mineral nose; medium bodied, ripe but not heavy, very mineral, crunchy, refreshing - just lovely!

Leonildo Pieropan Soave La Rocca 2006 was just plain weird: ketchup on the nose; flat, mouthcoating palate without the brightness or refreshing qualities of the Calvarino. I find this oaky wine a hard wine to understand and enjoy, though I accept that many love this wine.

Olivier Merlin Moulin-à-Vent 2005 seemed a rather weighty and sweet style of Bojo, but I think that might just be a very ripe vintage, as the aromatics themselves were just lovely and bright; gravelly and vibrant palate. I have never before heard of this producer, but the Mâcon and especially this MàV are wines I very much appreciate. Can anyone tell me more of them?

Maison Camille Giroud Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras 2005 ubi Burgundia? Oak.

Maison Camille Giroud Corton Clos du Roi GC 2005 this was much better integrated on the oak than the Cras, but still is a rather dark toned, modern style of Burgundy. I think if one likes that style, this can be a very good wine.

Tandem Syrah 2006 is Alain Graillot's project in Morocco. This was a lovely little wine: a true Syrah in aromas, yet of a sweet and peachy kind; good structure and frankly quite amazing length for what is, I understand, a rather inexpensive wine. I liked the '05 of this very much, but I think I might like this '06 even more for its peachy, almost Côte-Rôtie aromas.

Jamet Côtes-du-Rhône 2006 is a 100% Syrah and smells peachy and floral and meaty and is delightful.

Château Fonsalette CdR Rouge 2004 was sweet and spicy, red and bright; good structure, full bodied. Nice!

Pignan CdP Rouge 2004 was a cherried, bright, bittersweet wine; full bodied but refreshing. Nice!

Ch. Rayas CdP Rouge 2005 was a bit funky, full of bright cherry and earth notes, complex and bright rather than heavy and dark as so many CdP we see over here are. Though it is very full bodied, it has a bittersweet, bright streak running through it which keeps the whole more on the refreshing than unctuous side. If more S. Rhône was like this or the Bonneau Charles Morgan brought over, I might become a fan!

Domaine de Montcalmès 2005 (Languedoc) seemed a Syrah-forward wine, quite sweet in fruit, but kept in check by the strong structure. Attractive enough, but not perhaps quite the wine closest to my heart.

Grange des Pères Rouge 2005 was very perfumed and surprisingly open on the nose, very ripe but with enough savouriness to keep the scent fascinating. Big, sweet, but still vibrant. Nice!

Martín Codax Cuatro Pasos Mencía 2006 was a simple, but charming wine, ripe and red toned, slightly earthy. I couldn't find a particularily stron Mencía character in it, but apparently this would be under 10€ if it were available in Alko, so for that price I'm not complaining: it is an attractive little wine, refreshing and without obvious oak notes.

Aldo Rainoldi Valtellina Grumello 2004 was a lovely wine: it smells sharp (cat's piss perhaps?), a little funky, and bright and red toned in fruit aromas. Not as drying as I expected from such a young Nebbiolo. I like this.

Aldo Rainoldi Valtellina Inferno Riserva 2004 was much like the above, but not so bright and I thought I saw glimpses of oak? I'm not sure, I can be a bit like the boy that cried "wolf" when it comes to anything even slightly resembling oak aromas.

Aldo Rainoldi Valtellina Sfurzat Fruttaio Ca'Rizzieri 2002 was a slightly sweeter and much darker fruit version of the previous. Nice!

Ampeleia Kepos 2006 - this is Elisabetta Foradori's Tuscan project, but not only with typical Tuscan grapes, but Mediterranean grapes also. Smells a bit nutty, red and very sweet nose; drying yet full body, very ripe. Not bad, but I'm having trouble finding a unique personality in it.

Ampeleia Ampeleia 2004 was much like the above, except more weight and extract. Again: not bad, but a bit forgettable.

And, just to please Peter May ;) , I tasted Hamilton-Russell Ashbourne Pinotage 2004 which was perfectly drinkable, but I wouldn't go out of my way to find it. It had a bit of that cumin and mustard aroma that I so often find with the grape, but also ripe, clean fruit; full bodied, nice structure, clean. Not bad at all.

-Otto
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Re: WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

by Robin Garr » Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:57 pm

Lovely and fun notes, Otto! Now, no more fibbing to us about how Finland gets no good wines! :D

Serious note - I love that "orange peel" character when it appears in young Rhone whites. For some reason, I always just assume that it's Viognier in there doing that - blending citrus and floral notes - in combination with all the other goodies. Thoughts?
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Re: WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

by Bill Hooper » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:22 pm

Robin Garr wrote:Lovely and fun notes, Otto! Now, no more fibbing to us about how Finland gets no good wines! :D

Serious note - I love that "orange peel" character when it appears in young Rhone whites. For some reason, I always just assume that it's Viognier in there doing that - blending citrus and floral notes - in combination with all the other goodies. Thoughts?


I too love the orange zestiness of the Southern Rhone. I think it might be more of a Grenache Blanc thing which seems to add a little twang. Maybe it's not just one grape, but a few. Beaucastel doesn't use Viognier in their CDP blanc.
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Re: WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

by Robin Garr » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:27 pm

Bill Hooper wrote:Maybe it's not just one grape, but a few.
Smart call, I'd say, especially on the Grenache Blanc.

Beaucastel doesn't use Viognier in their CDP blanc.

D'oh! :oops: I was thinking Beaucastel carried over the "all the Rhone cepage" rule through its portfolio. Thanks for the correction, Bill.

One thing I believe we can agree about, and that's on the joy of a really good Southern Rhone white, whatever's in it.
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Re: WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

by Bill Hooper » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:33 pm

Robin Garr wrote:
Bill Hooper wrote:Maybe it's not just one grape, but a few.
Smart call, I'd say, especially on the Grenache Blanc.

Beaucastel doesn't use Viognier in their CDP blanc.

D'oh! :oops: I was thinking Beaucastel carried over the "all the Rhone cepage" rule through its portfolio. Thanks for the correction, Bill.

One thing I believe we can agree about, and that's on the joy of a really good Southern Rhone white, whatever's in it.


Damn right Robin! This reminds me that I haven't bought one in a very long time. I just hate to kill them young.
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Re: WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

by Saina » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:54 pm

Robin Garr wrote: Now, no more fibbing to us about how Finland gets no good wines! :D

Serious note - I love that "orange peel" character when it appears in young Rhone whites. For some reason, I always just assume that it's Viognier in there doing that - blending citrus and floral notes - in combination with all the other goodies. Thoughts?


Finland get's good wines, but it's impossible to drink them at home since most of what is imported is only allowed to be sold to restaurants. So yes, I will still whine. Sorry in advance. :)

I haven't noticed such an orange-peel / botrytis-like character in white Rhônes before. It is a bit of a shock to see that you two find it regularily.

-O
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Re: WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

by Bill Hooper » Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:00 pm

Otto Nieminen wrote:
I haven't noticed such an orange-peel / botrytis-like character in white Rhônes before. It is a bit of a shock to see that you two find it regularily.

-O


Otto,
I've found the same flavors in wines from further south. Domaine Tour Boisee, which you're familiar with, makes a Minervois Blanc with definite orange peeliness (It is primarily Marsanne though), and I've had the same come out in the rare bottle of Costieres de Nimes blanc (Roussanne/Marsanne/Grenache Blanc.) I've never really thought about it as botrytis, but that's an interesting possibility. Maybe it's just a characteristic of super-ripe Marsanne or Roussanne (like the pineapple and papaya fruit that comes out in super-ripe Riesling), but the twang and raciness of citrus zest is a flavor I've come to associate with Grenache Blanc which has better acidity (I often get banane from grenache Blanc too.) I'm guessing that further study is needed! :D

Cheers!
-Bill
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Re: WTN: Vindirekt's new stuff (Fèvre, Beaucastel, Rayas, etc.)

by Fredrik L » Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:38 am

Bill Hooper wrote:Beaucastel doesn't use Viognier in their CDP blanc.


Nor should they, since it is not allowed. (But that never stopped Gaja from using Barbera in his Baroli, did it :wink: )

Greetings / Fredrik L

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