WTN: Austrian Rieslings X 5 (including one older wine)

[David M. Bueker]

Tasting of Austrian Rieslings last night. The red wines and Grüner Veltliners are in separate threads.

2006 Salomon Undhof Riesling Steinterrassen
Glass closure. Very crispy in its fruit expression. Very lemony with a core of crunchy peach and minerals. Very good value at $14.99

2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein
Wow, a cork. Not many of those around here. But nevertheless this is stunning wine and very accessible. Peaches, clementine & dense minerals in a tight, focused package with a long fruity and mineral stuffed finish. There’s lots of wine in the bottle for $34.99.

2006 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Oberhauser
Where the Heiligenstein was accessible and enjoyable for everyone, this is the private club for the cool kids, full of piercing minerality and effusive spice. There’s some fruit in there somewhere, but you’ll get punished trying to get to it. (But oh the punishment is soooooo goooood.) If a wine that costs $44.99 can be considered a value then this is it.

2006 Salomon Undhof Riesling Kögl Reserve
Bright green fruit and underlying mineraliy. It seems almost fat after the Pichler, but it’s more that it’s accessible and in need of cellar time to show some bones. There’s tons of fruit and several truckloads of crushed stones so time will only bring positive things. $42.99. Glass stopper for this wine.

1997 Salomon Undhof Riesling Kögl Reserve
My initial pour came from a bottle that likely suffered from a faulty cork, as it had distinct oxidative notes. A second pour from a different bottle brought the prior wine into crisp focus. Take away the sheen of baby fat on the 2006, add in some smoky secondary character, and you have the 1997. Delicious, riveting wine for $36.99.

2006 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Oberhauser
Where the Heiligenstein was accessible and enjoyable for everyone, this is the private club for the cool kids, full of piercing minerality and effusive spice. There’s some fruit in there somewhere, but you’ll get punished trying to get to it. (But oh the punishment is soooooo goooood.) If a wine that costs $44.99 can be considered a value then this is it.

Thanks for the notes David -The F.X. Pichler in particular. If you ask me, Riesling really is F.X. Pichlers strong(est) suit -It is a shame they make so little of it. I have not found another Wachau producer which captivates me so much (Maybe Nikolaihof for different reasons) and my mouth is still watering from the memory of my last bottle of Riesling Smaragd Loibner Berg. $45 is a steal indeed. What's the Kellerberg going for back east?

-Bill

[David M. Bueker]

I purchased a few bottles of Kellerberg for $80.

I purchased a few bottles of Kellerberg for $80.

Very fair -especially when you look at 2006 White Burgundy prices. If you get impatient and need to check out a bottle I'd love to read a TN!

I am not David, but I had the Kellerberg last Sunday: pale yellow with a green tinge, lots of peach - and even some pineapple - on the nose, very clean and pure in the mouth. A wine that clearly speaks its great terroir and a superb achievement yet again from Lucas Pichler. Drink or hold.

Greetings / Fredrik L

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks for saving me from opening any of my bottles Fredrik. The Kellerberg is one I want to age.

I am not David, but I had the Kellerberg last Sunday: pale yellow with a green tinge, lots of peach - and even some pineapple - on the nose, very clean and pure in the mouth. A wine that clearly speaks its great terroir and a superb achievement yet again from Lucas Pichler. Drink or hold.

Greetings / Fredrik L

Thank you Fredrik!

2006 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Oberhauser
Where the Heiligenstein was accessible and enjoyable for everyone, this is the private club for the cool kids, full of piercing minerality and effusive spice. There’s some fruit in there somewhere, but you’ll get punished trying to get to it. (But oh the punishment is soooooo goooood.) If a wine that costs $44.99 can be considered a value then this is it.

No excessive alcohol?

(You lucky bastard, being based in Schlossböckelheim - had BTW the full Dönnhoff 07 line-up two weeks ago - keep an eye on the Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Spätlese 20007 - formerly August Anheuser vineyard)

[David M. Bueker]

I was prepared for the Pichler to be alcoholic, but it didn't show a trace of heat.

I will definitely be on the lookout for the Krotenpfuhl. Thanks. Along with the Kirschheck it's one of Donnhoff's wines that is still reasonably priced (to my way of thinking) at retail. The cherry pickers have taken Hermannshohle mostly out of my comfort range now that it's past $65 (though I will still buy perhaps 2 bottles).