Pauillac lamb (Agneau de Pauillac AOC - http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/meat ... rymarx.htm ) was on the menu last night and, for once, the food stole the show. This was the most delicately succulent lamb which I have ever tasted. The wines were very good, both in themselves and as matches, but were not exceptional like the lamb.
Château de Pibarnon – Bandol AOC – 1998 – Alc. 13% - (€ 25 for 2004).
The estate consists of 44 hectares of red grapes, of which 90% are Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache, and 4 hectares of white Clairette. http://www.pibarnon.com/ .
C: Mature carmine but not quite limpid (my fault for not standing up the bottle long enough before decanting).
N: Dark red rose petals, tar, leather and liquorice.
P: Restrained dark fruit, good density, depth, structure, harmonious shape in the mouth and length showing similar aromas to the nose together with some Provence herbs. As always, this Pibarnon combines aromatic complexity and meridional sun with classical restraint and elegance. I consistently admire and enjoy Pibarnon but have never been really excited by it as by some Tempier. 16.5/20.
Beradenga Vin Santo Chianti Classico DOC – 1993 - Fattoria di Fèlsina – Alc. 14.5% (€ 26 for 50 cl).
Full technical information on this wine is here - http://www.felsina.it/eng/felsina/vinsanto.htm .
We served it after an inimitably fine Easter dessert creation from Wittamer of Brussels. It was perfect in this role with enough acidity to correct the sweet after-taste of the dessert.
C: Brilliant dark amber.
N: Rich, burnished yet bright and and fine with a hint of delectable varnish.
P: Medium weight, complex, sweet but beautifully balanced by lively acidity, very long and more-ish. (This contrasts with an inane review by Suckling who awarded 100 points to a Vin Santo which was so rich that he could not finish his glass!!). 16.5/20 +.