WTN: Hungarys greatest dry white?

Szepsy Tokaji Furmint Szent Tamás 2005

If István Szepsy is The Guy for sweet Tokaji, it must also be realized that he makes the country’s greatest dry Tokaji too. The fruit is regal and subdued –white peach, pummelo and orange blossom. The texture is awesomely firm, and the wine drinks like cartilage. The Szent Tamás vineyard displays the most mineral of his wines and steel and ashen flintiness is the order of the day. The acidity is long and sustained, but not sharp and tangy. This really is a beautifully made wine that needs a few years to show its best. If I had to make a comparison, I might say something like Meursault Tillets from a good vintage, but even then only texturally. Wow. 13% alc. $45

Sounds great.

What do you think about the wines from Badacsony? I'll be going in July.

Thanks, Bill, for the note. As you know, I am a fan of Central Europe's table wines - I feel a cultural closeness to them and I find they still fight for shelf space among the better known Western European wines. A dry Tokaji of that quality is an outstanding find; I wish we got such wines here in Ontario.

Have you tried the Oremus Tokaji Mandolas - a dry Furmint? I've got one lined up for Easter and will report back. I have really enjoyed some Hungarian dry whites. One of the standouts was Bátaapáti's Zöldveltelini or Grüner Veltliner as it is better known. Slovenia and Hungary are some of the most interesting areas for me just now, but I am annoyed at how difficult it is to come by any here.

Sounds great.

What do you think about the wines from Badacsony? I'll be going in July.

Rahsaan,

There are some very decent wines produced in Badacsony. No doubt you will find and drink some wines from Huba Szeremley while staying there. He is a Pinot Noir specialist, but my absolute favorite from him is an utterly beautiful dry Muscat -and CHEAP at that. Just across the lake in Balatonlelle, Janos Konyari makes some of the finest red wines in Hungary -stealing that crown from the fine growers in Villany; the established (or rather re-established) and famous red-wine making region in the far south of the country. Konyari makes very good Kekfrankos, but his real passion is Bordeaux-style reds. His 'Loliense' might be the best red wine in Hungary (and therefore makes a strong case for best red wine produced east of Austria.) Although I love the delicious Kekfrankos for its good sense and lack of flash. Have a great time!

-Bill

Have you tried the Oremus Tokaji Mandolas - a dry Furmint? I've got one lined up for Easter and will report back. I have really enjoyed some Hungarian dry whites. One of the standouts was Bátaapáti's Zöldveltelini or Grüner Veltliner as it is better known. Slovenia and Hungary are some of the most interesting areas for me just now, but I am annoyed at how difficult it is to come by any here.

Otto,

I have had the Oremus Furmint -It is a good wine! It meets you at your house, where Szepsy requires a bit more of a journey. The most distinctive flavor I can remember was the straw and millet flavors I thought would go so well with sushi. I look forward to your notes. As for Zöldveltelini, I have only had commercial versions from Hilltop. I was not impressed.

-Bill

Thanks, Bill, for the note. As you know, I am a fan of Central Europe's table wines - I feel a cultural closeness to them and I find they still fight for shelf space among the better known Western European wines. A dry Tokaji of that quality is an outstanding find; I wish we got such wines here in Ontario.

Paul, we need to start a North American Chapter of The Central European Wine Society! (CEWS)