WTN: Tablas Creek, Calera

[Jenise]

2004 Tablas Creek Vineyard 2004 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, Paso Robles
Was surprised to realize just now that this wine, which I thought tasted mostly of Marsanne, doesn't contain any at all. Instead it's 65% rousanne with a lot of grenache blanc and a wee bit of picpoul blanc. What tastes of Marsanne to me is the yellow peach flavor. In the nose, mostly white melon (like galia, say) and what reminded my Texan hubby of bluebonnets. A nice enough wine, but flatter, sappier than it was a year ago. Drink up!

2003 Calera "Ryan Vineyard" Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan, California
It's been a long time since I had a Calera worth talking about, but this is one. Much deeper and richer in aromatics and flavor than suggested by the light, warm mauve color. Highly aromatic nose of spice, thyme, tomato skin and ash with soft red fruit and potpourri on the palate. Shows it's age in a good way, it's in a gorgeous place right now. Purchased locally last week for $43, and if I hadn't bought the last bottle I'd be planning a return visit for more.

2004 Tablas Creek Vineyard 2004 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, Paso Robles
Was surprised to realize just now that this wine, which I thought tasted mostly of Marsanne, doesn't contain any at all. Instead it's 65% rousanne with a lot of grenache blanc and a wee bit of picpoul blanc. What tastes of Marsanne to me is the yellow peach flavor. In the nose, mostly white melon (like galia, say) and what reminded my Texan hubby of bluebonnets. A nice enough wine, but flatter, sappier than it was a year ago. Drink up!

Yes I like that wine. Did you by any chance get to try the 100% picpoul blanc? I really liked it and have been thinking of planting some of that varietal.

I have never had a Calera, for some unknown reason given its pedigree, but I have a bottle of the 2004 Mills Vineyard in my drink queue.

[Jenise]

Yes I like that wine. Did you by any chance get to try the 100% picpoul blanc? I really liked it and have been thinking of planting some of that varietal.

I'm fairly sure I didn't, Duane. I'm always excited about new grapes, or new grapes in old places, and I have a ridiculously retentive memory. Everything they poured at the winery, white wise, the day I was there were blends.

I have never had a Calera, for some unknown reason given its pedigree, but I have a bottle of the 2004 Mills Vineyard in my drink queue.

I thought of you when we drank this wine. No candied fruit, no obvious oak, complex and balanced but completely unduded up--and with a nose to die for--this is the kind of pinot you've come to love.

I recently wrote up an interview and tasting with Josh Jensen - I was really impressed by his wines.
I don't know why he doesn't get more positive media coverage, because they are great - maybe it's because he's been doing it a long time and it's not the 'new' thing

[Jenise]

Jamie, best I can tell, once upon a time, and in particular back when pinot noir was unpopular and cabernet was king, Calera was a darling among the cognescenti. I remember an 87 Calera "Jensen" that a friend poured for me at a gallery opening in Anchorage, Alaska--it was my first Calera. And then something happened, I have no idea what, but the consensus opinion seemed to be that the wines in the 90's weren't up to the standards set in the 80's. Now they fight a different battle against the new, lavish style of California pinots; but there are those of us for whom the wine I reported on here is what pinot should be. I'd like to read your article: can I find it on your site?

Yes, linked from the home page
jamie

I'm fairly sure I didn't, Duane. I'm always excited about new grapes, or new grapes in old places, and I have a ridiculously retentive memory. Everything they poured at the winery, white wise, the day I was there were blends.

Tablas Creek was pouring 100% varietal wines at Unified in 2007. I was familiar with many of the varietals then I tried the picpoul blanc and was captivated by it. They were pouring for Novavine trying to get people to buy the Tablas Creek Vineyard Selections. If I was a spur of the moment impulse buyer I would already have picpoul blanc growing. Tablas only made 75 cases of the 05 picpoul blanc so it might be hard to get. http://www.tablascreek.com/picpoul05.shtml

Duane,

I tried the same wines at the 08 Unified in Sac a few months back. I also had a chance to taste through numerous single variety lots at the winery when I toured there in 06 . . . very impressive indeed. I know their focus is on blends, but they make some great stand alones as well. The picpoul was quite nice, as was the vermentino, mourvedre, grenache blanc, and a few others . . . cheers!

Duane,

I tried the same wines at the 08 Unified in Sac a few months back. I also had a chance to taste through numerous single variety lots at the winery when I toured there in 06 . . . very impressive indeed. I know their focus is on blends, but they make some great stand alones as well. The picpoul was quite nice, as was the vermentino, mourvedre, grenache blanc, and a few others . . . cheers!

I know that NovaVine has both the Tablas Mourvedre and the Alban Mourvedre. Any significant difference. Was thinking about bringing in 25 vines for my home vineyard in Southern Maryland.

Brian,

Was not aware of an alban mourvedre selection - I know there is syrah, grenache, and viognier . . . Don't know much about his mourvedre - does not release much of it himself . . . perhaps you can find out who Novavine has sold to and taste their wines?!?!?!?

[Robin Garr]

I recently wrote up an interview and tasting with Josh Jensen - I was really impressed by his wines.
I don't know why he doesn't get more positive media coverage, because they are great - maybe it's because he's been doing it a long time and it's not the 'new' thing

I've followed Josh from almost as far back as TomHill and think highly of Josh and his wines. Wrote a piece on his visit here within the past year or so and was glad to see him doing well. Tablas is another personal favorite for this yank Europhile.

Tablas only made 75 cases of the 05 picpoul blanc so it might be hard to get. http://www.tablascreek.com/picpoul05.shtml

Available only at the winery I think.

The Picpoul was not a club offering, but they were kind enough to send me a bottle. Tasty and the acids live up to its name (Lip-stinger).

I was lucky enough to share a bottle of the '94 Calera Jensen a few years back. Incredible bottle...I was inspired to go a buy some current releases and bury them way back in the cellar. One of the few Calipinot with a track record, for not only holding its own for years, but also for developing compelling secondary characteristics in the bottle. They do need time.

I know that NovaVine has both the Tablas Mourvedre and the Alban Mourvedre. Any significant difference. Was thinking about bringing in 25 vines for my home vineyard in Southern Maryland.

I would go with the Tablas Mourvedre if I had a choice just based on what I currently know. That Mourvedre is one of the dominant varietals in the Chateau de Beaucastel red blend. The Mourvedre from Tablas Creek for me is very drinkable compared to others that I have had. I also had to check to make sure that they still have the same winemaker and they do. I have known him for about 9 years. He has his own label called Lone Madrone which is also going to release a picpoul blanc. Maybe I'll find enough time for him to give me a tour of the picpoul blanc section of the vineyard so I can check it out.

Another reason to consider the Tablas selection is that I believe it is 'certified' whereas I'm not sure the alban clone is. This should help better shield you from diseased budwood, etc. . .

Thanks Duane. I always find it odd when someone has an exclusive arrangement to sell an item like NovaVine does with Tablas stock and then they bring in competition. We are not talking FPS material which they should offer so makes me wonder why they would add competition to their exclusive arrangement.

Another reason to consider the Tablas selection is that I believe it is 'certified' whereas I'm not sure the alban clone is. This should help better shield you from diseased budwood, etc. . .

The Tablas clones (there are two) are not certified. Neither is the Alban clone.

[Jenise]

One of the few Calipinot with a track record, for not only holding its own for years, but also for developing compelling secondary characteristics in the bottle.

As this one did. I'm definitely hunting for Caleras now!

I have a Calera Jensen and a Calera Mills Vineyard on hand (2005? not sure without checking at home.) Any suggestions on optimum drinking window? If 2005 maybe open in 2010?

Interesting that neither of these are certified . . . Are there any clones that are?

There certainly are some 'old vine' mourvedre vines up in the Sonoma area - might be worth looking into some budwood from there . . .

I've followed Josh from almost as far back as TomHill and think highly of Josh and his wines.

Like "from the very start"???

Josh's first wine was a.....Zinfandel...about 1976, as I recall. A LateHrvst in hlf btls. Classic Calera label but under the
name LaNoche Cllrs.....a permutation of "Chalone", where he made that wine. Grapes were old vine stuff, maybe original Alamaden vnyd,
from there near Hollister. Had my last one about 8-10 yrs ago. Like some of the greybeards around here...still going strong.
Tom

Interesting that neither of these are certified . . . Are there any clones that are?

There certainly are some 'old vine' mourvedre vines up in the Sonoma area - might be worth looking into some budwood from there . . .

According to Foundation Plant Services Registered Grape Selections for the 2007—2008 Dormant Season the only certified clones are
Mourvedre 03 (Mataro FPS 03, Lodi CA)
Mourvedre 04 (Mataro FPS 01, Lodi, CA)
Mourvedre entav-inra® 247 (ENTAV, France)
Mourvedre entav-inra® 450 (ENTAV, France)

Interesting that neither of these are certified . . . Are there any clones that are?
.

That is interesting that Tablas Creek isn't certified. When they imported the vines they were quarantined for three years by the USDA and certified virus free upon release. That makes me think they were never a FPS Nursery or something like that. It has been a few years since I have taken viticulture so I have forgotten a few things.

I also believe the guy that started the Tablas Creek Nursery ran the FPS Nursery at Davis before he worked at Tablas Creek. He used to come and buy our charcoal fines for use in the nursery.