WTNs: Jadot, Kees-Kieren, Cossart Gordon

I went out for dinner with my girlfriend. We had superb salmo trutta with mushroom sauce at my favourite restaurant, Carelia, in Helsinki. We ordered a white Burgundy, despite the threat of oxidation that has been evident in many. This wine, however, was fresh and lovely. We also finished last night's Kees-Kieren which my girlfriend liked very much, but which I thought just too simple and sherbetty. The Malmsey was a nice dessert.

• 1996 Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru Domaine du Duc de Magenta - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet (6/2/2006)
  69 euros, from restaurant Carelia. Light gold. The nose was lovely and classic white Burgundy: bacony, floral, nutty, tight and citrussy - not a hint of the oxidation found in many. The palate was also tightly wrought, mineral, highly acidic but with lovely fruit also, great intensity and length. Quite lovely.
• 2001 Kees-Kieren Kestener Herrenberg Kerner Auslese ** - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Middle Mosel (6/2/2006)
  14 squid from French & Logan. Light gold. The nose is prominent on passion fruit and is simple and not very mineral. The palate is also simple but pleasant: sweet, sherbetty, with decent acidity, and surprisingly fine length. A straightforward wine but well balanced though needs a bit more age for the sherbettyness to harmonize.
• N.V. Cossart Gordon & Co. Madeira Malmsey 10 years old - Portugal, Madeira (6/2/2006)
  7 euros or so by the glass at Carelia. Brown/black. A nose of sweet coffee and oxidation - lovely! The palate was sweet and raisiny but not as harshly acidic as I would have hoped. Nice dessert anyway.

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