WTN: Red earth, white rock

Vigna di Terre Rosse 2003 Colline-Saluzzesi Pelaverga, $21
Wow. My first Pelaverga and I hope not my last. I don’t usually note color, but this was a beautiful transparent light garnet that almost glowed. The nose is even more beautiful, mixing fresh strawberries and flowers. On the palate, there is nice tart strawberry accented by some herbs and a little spice. This combines ethereally light texture with ample flavor. It’s silky smooth with bright but not harsh acidity and in perfect balance. There is zero evidence of 2003's heat. Outstanding match with pizza. I don’t normally think of a “light” wine being a good value at over $20, but this is better than many wines costing twice that price. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, N.Y.

Clos Roche Blanche 2004 Touraine Gamay, $14
Very nice. Pleasant nose of strawberry, flowers, high-toned, perfumy elements, and some minerals, with tart strawberry, earth and lots of minerals on the palate. It has bright acidity, grainy but reasonably smooth texture, and a nice finish. Excellent match with a pasta salad with feta, vegetables, etc. My first 2004 version of this wine and it hits the spot again. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Domaine de la Pépière 2004 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, $11
This starts out with fairly light aromas and flavors that gain in intensity with a little time and warming. This is stone- and slate-dominated with some sharp citrus and herbs. Not for those into fruit, great for those into rocks. Bright and refreshing, it goes great with shrimp sauteed with garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, etc. It’s just as good the next day and is excellent with breaded, pan-fried Tilapia fillets. On the third day, it’s a little softer but even better with more herbal notes, yet the minerality stays in the fore and citrus fruit is still there as well. Outstanding match with an asparagus/sweet onion/chevre omelette. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Bodegas Riojanas 2000 Rioja Reserva Viña Albina, $25 restaurant price
Had at a Spanish restaurant in New York; I can’t believe the charge was just $6 over retail. This was very smooth despite its relative youth, offering a nice balance between good cherry fruit and Rioja spice. The oak is clearly there but it accents the wine rather than dominating it. It was an excellent match with garlic soup and various tapas. Importer: Vintage Wines, Staten Island, N.Y.

Bruce, nice notes, thanks. I finally got to try the Tavijn Ruche ( I think you posted a note on this wine in the recent past) the other day and thought it had the most beautiful nose, I'll have to search out the Pelaverga.

I think that 04 Pepiere muscadet is the perfect wine to drink a glass and then stick in the fridge as it definitely improves overnight.

I heard the 05 CRB gamay and the 05 Pepiere muscadet were now available, but haven't seen them out here yet.

Thanks, Marc.

I haven't had the Tavijn Ruche, though I'd love to get my hands on some. The Ruche I posted about was from Cantine Sant’Agata, the Il Cavaliere.

The Pepiere does improve overnight, which makes me think it could age except for the fake cork. But no matter, I'm letting my Clos des Briords age while I slurp up these now.

I, too, am looking for Loire 2005s. As of last week, though, none of the CRB 2005 reds had yet arrived at my primary source, Chambers Street. Given the sudden onset of miserable summer weather on the East Coast, I suspect it will be September or October before it makes sense to get another shipment.

I finally got to try the Tavijn Ruche ( I think you posted a note on this wine in the recent past) the other day and thought it had the most beautiful nose

The 04? Very intense stuff, and not too bad on the palate either, huh?

The 04? Very intense stuff, and not too bad on the palate either, huh?

This wine was one of my biggest positive surprises of the past year. It's wonderful. Now after reading about Hoke starting his ruche' experiences with one with some age on it, I'm trying to squirrel a bottle or two of tavijn away but I doubt I'll let them live too long.

The 04? Very intense stuff, and not too bad on the palate either, huh?

Yes. Amazingly pretty nose. And a nice combination of flavor and structure without any excess weight or hard tannins. Really nice wine. I know you don't partake, but the wine was fantastic with some Salumi salami and prosciutto from Armando Batali's shop.

This wine was one of my biggest positive surprises of the past year.

One of mine, too. It is so good now, I wonder about aging it. But it has the balance to try it, so who knows.

Thanks, Marc.
I, too, am looking for Loire 2005s. As of last week, though, none of the CRB 2005 reds had yet arrived at my primary source, Chambers Street.

patience Bruce, patience. David at CSW said the 05 CRB gamays should be in now.

The note on the pelaverga makes me want to pop mine open. I'll wait for the next 90-degree day here (I'm treating it like a higher-octane rose).

David at CSW said the 05 CRB gamays should be in now.

Ah, just when the weather is too hot for shipping.

The note on the pelaverga makes me want to pop mine open. I'll wait for the next 90-degree day here (I'm treating it like a higher-octane rose).

Before opening it, I wasn't sure what to expect. It's definitely a great hot weather wine -- in fact, I drank it on a hot day -- but somehow the term "higher-octane rose" doesn't quite do it justice in my mind. It's just plain beautiful IMHO -- as good as or perhaps even better than the best cru Beaujolais I've ever had, which I consider very high praise.