WTN: von Hövel Scharzhofberg

2006 von Hövel Scharzhofberg Riesling Spätlese
On the first day this is a full-on rich 06, with dried fruit flavors and heavy in the middle. On the second day it is very nice, still so deeply fruited, ripe and golden (I would never pick Saar) but better balanced with fun spicy minerals. This is not as elegant as the 06 Auslese, but, it is a fun spicy mineral bomb of a young wine, which has its good points.

2006 von Hövel Scharzhofberg Riesling Auslese
Richer than the spätlese (as one would expect), leaning quite high on the ripeness spectrum. But, there is definitely better elegance to the ripeness here, it is finer, and less of the coarse spicy dried fruit found in the spätlese. However, without the exuberant spicy minerals of the spätlese, this is more difficult to drink now, comes across too heavy and dull for me. Would like to check back in the future, when I’m guessing it will surpass the spätlese. But, funnily enough, I remember drinking this in the fall when it was light air oxygen, so gulpable. Huh.

2005 von Hövel Scharzhofberg Riesling Spätlese
This is not useful right now. Thick simple round soft and dull. Gets slightly better with air over two days, with some better acidity and curranty Scharz character. But, still coarse compared to the 05 and 06 ausleses, and probably the weakest of these four wines.

2005 von Hövel Scharzhofberg Riesling Auslese
Better acidity than the 05 spätlese, and more of the crisp currant I expect from the vineyard. Although surrounded by a juicy elegant ripe frame. This is the best of these four, bright brisk and speaking of Saar, but with focused ripeness and sweetness, precision point sugar with the slight structured grip you have to love. This seems to have it all going on, would love to check back in future years.

[David M. Bueker]

von Hovel is an interesting estate for me. While they have land in the famed Scharzhofberg, their better wines almost always come from the less well known Hutte. It sort of reminds me of Clos Vougeot in that Scharzhofberg is so big that the exact location of the vines is critically important. Egon Muller has the best plots, and I think van Volxem is right behind.

Egon Muller has the best plots, and I think van Volxem is right behind.

Hi David,
Egon Müller, Bischöfliche Weingüter and von Kesselstatt roughly own a similar proportion of vineyards in the classical part. Van Volxem's holdings are not that top - except for the small Pergentsknopp parcel.

[David M. Bueker]

Egon Muller has the best plots, and I think van Volxem is right behind.

Hi David,
Egon Müller, Bischöfliche Weingüter and von Kesselstatt roughly own a similar proportion of vineyards in the classical part. Van Volxem's holdings are not that top - except for the small Pergentsknopp parcel.

Thanks Jean. I appreciate the information (and now will drool even more over the Kesselstatt Scharzhofberg in the cellar...).

von Hovel is an interesting estate for me. While they have land in the famed Scharzhofberg, their better wines almost always come from the less well known Hutte..

Oh, I agree. But these Scharzhofberg wines are so well priced, they have a purpose for me. I would buy more of the 05 Auslese. I think it was $25.

Egon Muller has the best plots, and I think van Volxem is right behind.

Hi David,
Egon Müller, Bischöfliche Weingüter and von Kesselstatt roughly own a similar proportion of vineyards in the classical part. Van Volxem's holdings are not that top - except for the small Pergentsknopp parcel.

Thanks Jean. I appreciate the information (and now will drool even more over the Kesselstatt Scharzhofberg in the cellar...).

You and me both David. I have an '89 Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Beerenauslese (750ml) hanging out. Have you ever tasted it? I'd love to know how it's doing.

wow, wow, easy now. Fun = terroir x winemaker quality ... Kesselstatt is somewhat erratic as is the Hohe Domkirche.

(sorry Bill, can't help you on that wine ...)

[David M. Bueker]

I would more likely say Kesseltatt was that erratic. They have been much more consistent of late.

Annegret is really committed and I admire that. But I still find (too many) bottlings somewhat mainstream, clean, ... if see what I mean. So, I wish you are right - but time will tell

Changing the subject, I am looking forward to Bischöfliche Weingüter now that the magician behind the rebirth of the Würzburger Bürgerspital has been headhunted by them: Helmut Plunien. I met him at the presentation last year and this guy means business. I hope that this will be the kiss of awakening for that great Estate! If what he does at his small family Estate (Weingut Vols) is any sign, then that the BWT will soon be back.

[David M. Bueker]

That is indeed very good news.

As for Kesselstatt, clean and correct is a great place to start from. A few years back that's pretty much all I got out of Selbach.