Trattoria Grappolo, the happening spot in Santa Ynez, has been putting on monthly wine dinners, centering on single producers. Last night featured Antinori, and a representative of the company was on hand to talk a little about the history of the brand, as well as introduce each wine.
Flutes of Franciacorta greeted us upon arrival - the method of service prevented me from getting the name of the producer - it was a simple, workhorse bubbly, which accomplished its mission; get the attendants lubed up for dinner. There were passed appetizers of chicken liver crostini, and an interesting skewer of fingerling potato and octopus.
The first course was "Scampi con Fagioli Toscani al Sedano" which was simply a small mound of white beans interspersed with a shrimp mousse. The wine for this course was a Chardonnay: 2005 Cervaro della Sala, an Umbrian IGT. 85% Chard, 15% Grechetto
Initially, I thought, what is this oaky, buttery, ordinary Chardonnay doing in my glass? Another diner at my table proclaimed it to be "very Californian," which I think he meant as a compliment, but turned Antinori Man ashen faced. With time in the glass, the class and breeding of this wine became clear to me - the toasty oak stepped back and allowed the fruit, and underlying citrusy, minerality to come to the fore. Time, and combining with food changed my mind about this wine, and it is a white I would consider decanting.
Next up was the pasta course, "Gnocchetti Sardi Malloreddus". Marble sized gnocchi, topped with a tomato sauce flavored with sausage and saffron. This was paired with 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Badia a Passignano. An initial sniff of the glass screamed animal - sweat, body odor, meat. I jotted into my notes that I suspected a touch of brett, due to some band aid I picked up, and I wish there was a winemaker with me to confirm my suspicion. I discreetly asked Antinori Man if there was brett in the wine, and he answered, with borderline condescension, that no, it was the earthy notes typical of Chianti that I was picking up. I let it go, as I've learned to let much go in one ear and out the other at these things, a skill which served me well later in the evening when someone was bragging about his Silver Oak collection. Anyway, it was a beautiful wine, complex in the mouth with dried cherries and leather, and brett or no, I would drink it again in a heartbeat.
Next course was "Anatra ai Funghi Porcini," which was a slow cooked, whole duck leg, the skin all crispy and the meat inside tender and shreddable, just shy of confit. This was plated with porcini, atop a red wine reduction.
The wine match for this course was the 2003 Tignanello, Toscana IGT. This nose on this wine was a bit more restrained, more typically Sangiovese, and in the mouth it blossomed beautifully. It had great structure, grippy tannin, and a long finish. It married very well with the duck.
This was followed by "Brasati di Cinghiale al Pepe Nero con Polenta," a wild boar stew plated on creamy polenta. I don't normally get overly enthusiastic over corn meal, but this polenta was richly flavored, with cream and Reggiano, as it needed to be to partner with the hearty stew. The chef told me the recipe came from the Antinori family. This was a truly delicious dish, and it was paired with the 2000 Guado al Tasso - from the Bolgheri DOC. The wine was tight - very tight and I suspect it would have benefited from an hour or more in the decanter. The nose was riper, and on the palate the wine seemed heftier and riper as well. Big fruit here - along with some coffee and chocolatey notes from the barrique. The tannin has not fully integrated and I suspect this wine was drunk too young.
I enjoyed it less than the two reds served before it.
Dessert was "Torta di Mele" a small apple tart served with whipped cream. This was paired with 2004 Muffato della Sala - a blend of Sauv Blanc, Grechetto, Traminer and Riesling, afflicted with botrytis. I had a mixed reaction to this wine - honey and ripe stone fruit are present, and the texture is somewhat viscous, and mouth filling. I would mark it down for lack of acidity, which, after the first few enjoyable sips, rendered it one dimensional. Too much sweet for me, with no counterbalance.
It probably should have been served alone - the match with the apple tart was just more sugar than one course needs.
This was an enjoyable dinner, and my WOTN was the Badia a Passignano, by a whisker over the Tig. There was just something about that nose......