WTN: 2004 Paul Lato Pinot & 2005 Varner Pinot

2004 Paul Lato Pinot Noir Duende Gold Coast Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (1/15/2008)
I have tried this a couple of time now over the last year but I guess I just need to accept that this is a big step down from the 03. Very aggressive with smokey and simple aromatics. The fruit is more on the dark side. An enjoyable wine but I doubt it will reach greatness. (87 pts.)

2005 Varner Pinot Noir Spring Ridge Vineyard Hidden Block - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (1/14/2008)
I meant to hold off on this but hadn't dropped them off at the locker yet...so it was sitting there calling my name. Aromatics of a light Cali pinot. Very nice. I love it. On the palate there is sweet cherry fruit but also nice strawberry sunday sauce. I am enjoying the primary fruit that is showing nice restraint. Actually catching the tannin as the evening went on. More structure than I originally thought. Give at least 4 years. (90 pts.)

Jason

[Jenise]

2004 Paul Lato Pinot Noir Duende Gold Coast Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (1/15/2008)
I have tried this a couple of time now over the last year but I guess I just need to accept that this is a big step down from the 03. Very aggressive with smokey and simple aromatics. The fruit is more on the dark side. An enjoyable wine but I doubt it will reach greatness. (87 pts.)

2005 Varner Pinot Noir Spring Ridge Vineyard Hidden Block - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (1/14/2008)
I meant to hold off on this but hadn't dropped them off at the locker yet...so it was sitting there calling my name. Aromatics of a light Cali pinot. Very nice. I love it. On the palate there is sweet cherry fruit but also nice strawberry sunday sauce. I am enjoying the primary fruit that is showing nice restraint. Actually catching the tannin as the evening went on. More structure than I originally thought. Give at least 4 years. (90 pts.)

Jason

The Varner sounds like a wine to seek out, thanks. The Paul Lato reminds me of the Ken Volk that's sitting in my cellar, busy being avoided.

Speaking of cellars, didn't realize you keep your stuff in a locker. Very hard to imagine, since I've enjoyed the luxury of having my wine at my fingertips for so long, how I'd get along with so many wines just out of reach. Maybe it would teach me discipline. Are you disciplined?

2004 Paul Lato Pinot Noir Duende Gold Coast Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (1/15/2008)
I have tried this a couple of time now over the last year but I guess I just need to accept that this is a big step down from the 03. Very aggressive with smokey and simple aromatics. The fruit is more on the dark side. An enjoyable wine but I doubt it will reach greatness. (87 pts.)

04 was the year of the searing heat. I don't think that's the kind of vintage in which Lato can show his best stuff. I'd like to try something from '05, if he made any.

The only thing is, John, that I didn't have this same experience with this wine, and Jason and I tend to be palate-aligned for many, many wnes (one exception...Santa Lucia Pinots which JH does not like). I thought the 04 Lato was very very good, with more red than dark fruit. Now that is scary, when we can't even agree on the fruit profile. I may be more tolerant of smoky elements in Pinot, as I do like that, makes them go great with grilled sausage!!! I just wonder if there is some bottle variation or we really are far apart on this one. I did open the bottle I tried at a party late at night after we had drunk lots of Cabs..so don't know if that affected the evaluation. But interesting, the wide difference in our opinion.

The Paul Lato reminds me of the Ken Volk that's sitting in my cellar, busy being avoided.

The 03 was a very good Cali Pinot ... and his syrahs are great too. I think this was a vintage issue.

Speaking of cellars, didn't realize you keep your stuff in a locker. Very hard to imagine, since I've enjoyed the luxury of having my wine at my fingertips for so long, how I'd get along with so many wines just out of reach. Maybe it would teach me discipline. Are you disciplined?

Having much of my wine at a locker does help with the wines I really want to age. Plus the receive all my shipments that go straight into the temperature and humidity controlled room.

But I would prefer to have my own cellar.

Jason

04 was the year of the searing heat. I don't think that's the kind of vintage in which Lato can show his best stuff. I'd like to try something from '05, if he made any.

Agreed. This is the first Lato that I have not thoroughly enjoyed. I didn't have the $$$ to pick up some of his 05s ... I think he had multiple ... but there was a price increase ... and I spent my money elsewhere. I still consider this a highly recommended producer for both pinot and syrah.

Jason

2005 Varner Pinot Noir Spring Ridge Vineyard Hidden Block - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (1/14/2008)
I meant to hold off on this but hadn't dropped them off at the locker yet...so it was sitting there calling my name. Aromatics of a light Cali pinot. Very nice. I love it. On the palate there is sweet cherry fruit but also nice strawberry sunday sauce. I am enjoying the primary fruit that is showing nice restraint. Actually catching the tannin as the evening went on. More structure than I originally thought. Give at least 4 years. (90 pts.)

Jason, thanks for the helpful note on the '05 Varner Hidden Block. I have just a single bottle. I heard from a friend just last night that it is made in this style you describe--he said the color looked more like a rose than a red wine, but that it had solid intensity of elegant fruit. I don't know if I can wait on it 4 years, but I will give it more time than I was originally planning!

Michael

I don't know if I can wait on it 4 years, but I will give it more time than I was originally planning!

The Varner is drinking well now and if you have never tried one, you'll want to because you may want more in the future. But I think at least 6-12 months would be a good idea.

Jason