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BDay wines

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John Treder

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BDay wines

by John Treder » Fri Jan 25, 2008 2:19 am

Yesterday was my mother's 89th birthday, and last Saturday was my 68th, so I put together a party at the Plumed Horse in Saratoga - today because my sister was visiting from Cedaredge, CO.

We did the tasting menu, and I talked ahead of time with the maitre d', and brought a couple of wines to fit.
My last bottle of Joseph Swan Angelo's Old Vine White - this was '99, the last vintage, and we sipped it through the first three courses - American Sturgeon Caviar, ahi tuna tartare, Seared Artisan Foie Gras, mustard fruits, green grapes, salted almond brittle, and Black Pepper and Parmesan Soufflé, dungeness crab and sea urchin fondue. I'll respond again tomorrow, but this was a simply ethereal bottle. I made sure the maitre d', the sommelier and our waiter all got a taste. Sorry, it's too late and I'm too far gone to do a proper description. Let it be said that it fit beautifully with the foie gras, and even better with the cheese souffle with crab sauce, if I may be permitted to simplify the menu verbiage.

Edited: Ok, it's tomorrow. Angelo's Old Vine: Beautiful pale lemon color. Aroma of melon with some faint mustiness - my sister-in-law Pam said it was "good musty, like Grandma's attic". Rather thick, slow legs on swirling. Swirling did open the aroma a lot. On entry, flowers and melon. Mid-palate, an oily feel much like a mature Riesling, very smooth. The faintest traces of the oak in which it was matured. With the ahi tartare, I didn't get the lemon I had expected; with the foie gras, the lemon appeared in the background. A beautiful, long, nearly sweet finish, fading gracefully away.
The sommelier was fascinated with it - he said "Like chardonnay, but it isn't" and suggested several French whites, dubiously. :)
I'm glad I chose to drink it up. It was time.

With quail, and lamb chops, we had Flora Springs Trilogy '97. It was decanted on arrival at the restaurant, and that was probably a good thing, because it opened as we were drinking it a couple of hours later. Good wine, in fact very good wine, in fact excellent. It only failed to meet the standard of the Angelo's Old Vine.

Edited some more: The Trilogy was totally opaque dark purple, showing no rim clearing at all. The sommelier said there wasn't any sediment in the bottle - a minor surprise to me - I've seen a lot of sediment in a couple of earlier bottles. The nose was a little slow to open, and the entry was more merlot than cab sauvignon. Just the smallest amount of tannin, almost in the background. Cab showed up in mid-palate, but what really happened was a swelling of Napa fruitiness. A very quiet, medium to long finish - not as long as the Angelo's Old Vine. The squab was served with a pinot noir reduction, and the ideal wine with it would have been a PN, but the Trilogy did well. It was great with the very mild lamb chops - neither the wine nor the chops demanded attention before the other. This bottle was perhaps at its peak, the tannins were mostly resolved, but I think it would have held for several more years.

The food was great, the service was as good as any I've seen in the last decade or so, the conversation with a much-beloved family was the greatest. It was a memorable evening, the sort of meal one hopes for and seldom finds.
Last edited by John Treder on Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
John in the wine county
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Cynthia Wenslow

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Re: BDay wines

by Cynthia Wenslow » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:02 am

Happy belated birthday to you, John! It does indeed sound like a fine evening, the kind to cherish.
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Robin Garr

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Re: BDay wines

by Robin Garr » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:04 am

John - Santa Clara wrote:Yesterday was my mother's 89th birthday, and last Saturday was my 68th

Happy belated birthday to you, John, and your mother, too. What a bittersweet moment, to drink the last of a treasure trove of a meaningful wine. As you probably recall, I'm a great fan of the Joseph Swan wines, too, and remember the Angelo's Old Vine White fondly. It's been a long time since I last tasted it, though!
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John Treder

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Re: BDay wines

by John Treder » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:20 pm

Thanks, Robin and Cynthia. Yes, it is a bittersweet moment when you drink the last bottle, but what's wine for?
John in the wine county
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Brian K Miller

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Re: BDay wines

by Brian K Miller » Sat Jan 26, 2008 2:23 am

Happy birthday! Sounds like a lovely event!
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach

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