Is Vin Jaune expensive?(w/ bonus positive Whole Foods story)

Scroll down for the questions, but, first, to make a short story long . . .

I am currently visiting Alexandria, Virginia, and was out doing errands at Whole Foods--and Whole Foods on a Saturday is really not a place I try to be. As I was wandering around the store waiting for my companion, I noticed they were set up for a tasting of some wines. I've done tastings at this Whole Foods before and they have been mostly ho-hum affairs--fruity, forward wines, very decently priced but with not a whole lot of interest for me (to the degree I can tell from the tiny little plastic cups). But then I saw the wines, including two Neal Rosenthal selections (which I have grown to trust) . . . a Coteaux du Loir, a 100 percent Cournoise labeled as a Vin de Pays from the Rhône, a Carginan from Corbiéres in Languedoc, and, drum roll please, a Vin Jaune from Jura. Suffice to say, they had my interest. I eventually hunted one of the Whole Foods staff members down and asked when they would be tasting the wines. He was a very nice young man (couldn't be much older than 24) but he explained that the person that supposed to run the tasting wasn't there and wouldn't be for another hour, but asked if he could open anything for me. I wasn't really expecting him to do anything beyond open the wines, but this kid was as excited to open the wines as I was--and, boy, did he know his stuff: features of the terroir, particularities of the grape varieties, vintage info--he was a total wine geek and packing tons of information in 30 second sound bites. It totally blew away any other retail experience I have had at Whole Foods. But anyway, beyond the fact that the step-in pourer had the level of knowledge, enthusiasm and passion that I only wish I could find more often when looking for guidance in buying in the DC area, I really loved the Coteaux du Loir and was absolutely astounded by the Vin Jaune.

I grabbed a bottle of the Vin Jaune, but, when I got to the register, there was some sticker shock. The bottle was larger than a 375 but smaller than a 750ml, but went for $44. As there was other stuff in my basket, I had to set it aside. I have never had Vin Jaune before, but, in general, is it an expensive wine? And we also talked about the fact that this was a vintage Vin Jaune--is that unusual? and if so, why?

Thanks for any guidance in advance!

Well, I don't know if vintage VJ is the norm, but I wouldn't call it unusual. Tissot, Puffeney, etc tend to be about $50ish. Nice story re the Whole Food geek!

Vin Jaune is pretty expensive as a rule. Not easy to make. Actually, $44 is on the low end.

As the wine is aged in oak for at least six years, it reduces in volume. The resulting bottle (called a Clavelin) is what a 750ml bottle is supposedly equal to after aging in cask (62 cl).

It is hardly popular in the states, so I have only tasted a few, but they are captivating wines. I picked up a bottle of Rolet Vin Jaune this past month ($65). I'm suprised that your Whole Foods had one.

Best,
Joe

It's surprising to see Vin Jaune in the states. I have always thought that the 620ml clavelin bottle would prohibit imports. Within the EU, France has been granted an exception by the EU to the standard bottle size regulations for vin jaune from Jura.

Vin jaune, btw, normally carries a vintage designation, since it's not blended in a solera-like process.

It's surprising to see Vin Jaune in the states. I have always thought that the 620ml clavelin bottle would prohibit imports. Within the EU, France has been granted an exception by the EU to the standard bottle size regulations for vin jaune from Jura.

Vin jaune, btw, normally carries a vintage designation, since it's not blended in a solera-like process.

True, Vin Jaune is technically not allowed to be sold in the USA due to the obligatory 62cl clavelin bottle. However, a few Juar producers that are shipping other wines over manage to sneak in a few clavelin bottles as 'samples'.
Vin Jaune always carries a vintage and is not allowed for release until 6 years and 3 months after harvest, in other words the first releases of the 2001 vintage will be going on sale in France now, but most producers will continue with 2000 until the end of the year.

Vin Jaune is pretty expensive as a rule. Not easy to make. Actually, $44 is on the low end.

As the wine is aged in oak for at least six years, it reduces in volume. The resulting bottle (called a Clavelin) is what a 750ml bottle is supposedly equal to after aging in cask (62 cl).

Definitely not easy to make/mature. Low-yielding Savagnin grapes, vinified as a normal dry white wine, aged in uncompletely-filled old barrels for minimum 6 years stored often in several different cellars with good ventilation and varying in temperature (opposite of normal cellar conditions). A layer of flor-like yeast forms on top of most of the barrels, but each barrel will be checked by laboratory testing (usually) and tasting (sometimes) twice a year during the 6 years and those that have gone too far in the vinegar direction (too much volatile acidity) or too little ethanal (not ethanol) but one of the molecules responsible for the flavour, will be withdrawn from ageing for Vin Jaune and sold instead as oxidative white wine - either pure Savagnin or blended with Chardonnay. Eventually they are bottled in the expensive, limited production clavelin - which - I learnt - was what one litre of wine (not 75cl) is supposedly equal to after evaporation in barrel over the six years.

Consumer price in France direct from a good producer is €25 - €29 per clavelin bottle. Vin Jaune represents about 2 - 3% of total Jura production and Jura is the smallest designated wine region in France (less than 2% of total France) - please don't ask me how many total bottles that represents - files not too hand!

The taste of Vin Jaune is indeed unusual, closest to a fine dry Fino/Amontillado Sherry but different, partly because unfortified and not aged in solera, but also it's from a cool climate and high acid grape. It has a walnutty, spicy character, also what the French called 'curry' but not hot, Indian chili curry, but spices like fenugreek/ginger etc. and it can have a rich honeyed or crystallised fruit character too. Bone dry with high acidity on the palate it is quite a shock at first! Traditionally drunk with local chicken or trout in a rich cream/morel sauces it is easiest appreciated with top class hard Comté cheese with walnuts. It should be served almost at room temperature and can be decanted first - that's debatable. Once a bottle is opened, if kept fairly cool it will last several weeks without spoiling. Good Vin Jaune ages extremely well, and top producers suggest waiting 3 - 10 years from bottling before approaching it.

It is indeed a bizarre wine from a bizarre but fascinating little region of France.

Here endeth the Jura Vin Jaune Sunday lesson.

Thanks Wink for that very informative lesson on a very curious wine I had only faintly heard about. I like your Truman Capote-ish name too.

Ago

Thank you Wink and others--this was precisely the low-down I was looking for. Such a shame it is so hard to come by stateside, my introduction to Vin Jaune certainly intrigued me.

But thank goodness the government is looking out for the consumer and keeping those dangerous 62cl bottles out of their hands--who knows what mayhem might otherwise have befallen These United States . . .