Enoteca Vin in Raleigh advertised a special weekend tasting of Pinot Noirs so I managed to get up there on Saturday (with a 25-minute delay due to a horrendous wreck on I-95 near the exit for Wade, NC.)
You could order individual tastings or all 12 Pinots in 2-oz. pours, or five 3-oz. pours, or 3 5-oz. pours. I did the five samples. With the appetizer of risotto with chanterelles I had the first two Pinot Noirs. With hanger steak with celery root puree and roasted turnips (I asked to skip the turnip greens) I had the other three Pinot Noirs.
On offer were two Kooyang Pinots from Australia. I tried the second one; the other was the "Meres."
2004 KOOYANG "HAVEN" PINOT NOIR, MORNINGTON PENINSULA, AUSTRALIA
Very fragrant with an elegant berry perfume. This, and the second wine were both transparent and almost identical hue (a rich Burgundy color). Rich in fruit and yet slightly earthy. Crushed velvet tannins. Lengthy finish. (description online calls this an Australian "grand cru.") This proved to be my second favorite of the five wines. I am encountering more New Zealand and Australian Pinot Noirs that impress me these days.
2005 PALI "INMAN OLIVET" RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, SONOMA COUNTY, CA
Brian Loring is winemaker here and I like and order some of his wines. I brought home a Pellegrini "Olivet" from my trip in October and have had other wines from "Olivet" so was curious about this wine. Online note said these grapes previously went to Williams Selyem and Merry Edwards--other producers high on my list. I caught some of that Russian River Valley "nose" on the first or second sniff. Taste of tart (sour?) cherries with peppery finish. Quite different from the "Haven." I'm not certain if the wine has a "bite" or if I just feel as if I'm biting into it. Loads of mouth presence. Both of the first two wines were nice with the mushroom risotto--the Pali perhaps being the better match.
With the hanger steak I had:
2002 JOSEPH SWAN "TRENTON ESTATE" PINOR NOIR, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
I had tasted this before at Enoteca Vin and wanted more please. Paler, appears thinner than the first two wines. More fragrant that the other two wines I had in this flight. Mainly raspberries? Again a spicy, peppery finish. (After chatting with the neighboring table of three--he writes food and wine notes for GillznFinz.com--I let them have a sniff of the glass with the Joseph Swan. He picked up on cinnamon where I was smelling pepper.) Elegant, gentle, super-smooth on the palate until the spicy finish. Also made me think of berry ice cream. Impressive! Restaurant and wine shop owner Chrish Peel's personal favorite and my favorite of the five I tried Saturday evening.
2005 LONDER "PARABOL" PINOT NOIR, ANDERSON VALLEY, CA
Cherry/kirsch flavors. Light touch when first entering on the palate and a bit of a burn on the finish. Maybe one I don't quite get but it does perhaps display some "finesse" or "cachet." Have others had this and want to comment?
2002 FOURRIER VOUGEOT "LES PETITES VOUGEOTS" BURGUNDY, FRANCE
Appears to be in an approachable drinking window--more development to come? Subtle cherry/berry fruit. Some pepper on the finish. At this stage I don't like it as well as the Fourrier Gevrey I tried at this restaurant/wine bar earlier.
I forgot to note which wine paired best with the hanger steak but all three seemed compatible. I would say maybe the Joseph Swan was so yummy that it should be enjoyed just as a beverage and let the others accompany the meat.