WTN: Clos de Coulaine Sav, US Pinot, Rocking Texier

Papin-Chevalier Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2004 14% 20,60€

A very deep golden colour. The nose honeyed and floral, not very mineral, waxy. Slightly sweet, heavy, tannic, nicely acidic. Long. I am very much enjoying this wine, though it does seem rather advanced for an '04. It still held up well over-night. I am guessing this is an anomalous bottle in being so forward?

Irony Pinot Noir Jesse's Block Reserve 2005 14,5% 35,60€ Russian River Valley, Sonoma

A light colour. First the positive aspects: it really smells of Pinot: red toned, vibrant fruit, some darker mineral and earthy tones to bring a solid bass-line to the soprano and alto stems of the fruit. Vibrant acid, ripe fruit, not heavy despite huge alcohol, and despite the massive alcohol, the aftertaste isn't very hot.

Then the negative aspect: the oak tries hard to disguise the Pinosity. Unless my nostrils deceive me, I get a bit of American oak here. I have no idea what percentage is new and I couldn't find the info on Alko's web site. But the combination of Pinot and American oak I believe is difficult, and at least here doesn't really work for me. But it is well made, so I can well imagine that many will enjoy this much more than I did. 35€ here means 20€ elsewhere. I wouldn't buy even at that price.

*Éric Texier Brézème 2004 12,5% c.10€ CdR

Totally rocks! Essence of Syrah. I have bought altogether 18 bottles of this (most of any single wine ever) and have only four left, yet still everytime I open one I fall in love. This might be the best cheap wine I have ever drunk. Bravo! This might be too enthusiastic a note considering that my employer imports Texier, but I bought these before I went to work for him, so am I excused? But the bad news: this is under plastic cork, so though it has steadily improved over the past year, I don't dare keep these longer.

-O

Interesting notes, Otto. I've picked up the 2005 Texier bottling, so I am ow lookign even more forward to it.

I actually tried a Chardonnay and a Cabeneret from the Irony label last night. No obvious faults, but they were just a little boring. The Cab was fine, not particularly oaky or sweet but not showing any Cabernet varietal character, either. I think I would rank them about 11 or so.

Papin-Chevalier Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2004though it does seem rather advanced for an '04. It still held up well over-night. I am guessing this is an anomalous bottle in being so forward?

I don't know.

Like others in Savennieres, Claude has been experimenting with different vineyard and cellar practices, so it is hard to say what is normal and what is anomalous. Like Closel, the trend is towards picking riper, so the 2004s at both properties will seem more forward than the 01s. That said, I have found the Clos de Coulaine to be more forward and enjoyable young than the Anjou Haut de la Garde, which can be cranky and speak more of potential and the need for age. His Roche aux Moines has the greatest potential to age, but in 04 and 05 was also quite silky and easy to drink young.