WTN: 03 Vergelegen, 88 Clerc Milon, 88 Pichon Baron, 95 and 97 Mas La Plana

Catching up on some notes – first a small dinner party.

2003 Vergelegen (white) – the estate white wine is made from sauv blanc and Semillon and has a fairly full fruit and oak nose, a very Bordeaux like presentation (people looking for ringers take note), and good persistence in the mouth. On the high side in terms of price, but a well made wine.

1988 Ch. Clerc Milon – we chose a couple of 88 Bordeaux for the lamb main course, from opposite ends of Pauillac. This one showed nice fruit in the nose, a decent middle, still softly tannic, and it became a little harder with time. It was a bit simpler than the next wine and the fruit faded after awhile in the glass. I’d say drink up in the next few years.

1988 Ch. Pichon Baron – weightier with a darker nose, hint of anise and vanilla backed by currant, less tannin than the Clerc Milon and more complex.. Good stuffing and structure, this showed no sign of fading or losing fruit.

1997 Torres Mas La Plana – switching to 100% cabernet from across the Pyrenees was a bit jarring. Tasted side by side, this was my choice for best wine of flight. Dark with lots of oak (no surprise), smooth and drinking very well. They used a much fancier heavier bottle for this vintage – not sure when they switched.

1995 Torres Mas La Plana – this wine had its champions, and it did show lighter edges, not as much in the nose, higher acidity, more elegance, and was quite presentable. Neither wine had much complexity and I think that the Bordeaux was a difficult act to follow.

Hi Bill

The Vergelegen White has been one of those wines that I have never been able to get. Not at the winery, not in nearby restaurants (sold out, says the sommelier. But the winery is just 5 miles away, go and get some more says I, Can't, its all on allocation) Year after year, 5 Platter stars...

Anyway -- I saw some 2003 in a UK store in August and bought half a case. First time I had ever seen them on sale. Put 2 in a tasting; they were disliked, got the lowest score. Opened a couple myself at home. Seems over the hill, unpleasant.

I'm so disappointed. Thought maybe the 2003 was too old, but from your comments I wonder if these particular bottles haven't been well kept and thats why they were being offloaded.....

Peter, there was certainly nothing elderly about this bottle, it was fresh and alive, doing a great impression of being a nice white Bordeaux.

Probably a heat thing on the ones you got. Too bad!

Catching up on some notes – first a small dinner party.

1988 Ch. Pichon Baron – weightier with a darker nose, hint of anise and vanilla backed by currant, less tannin than the Clerc Milon and more complex.. Good stuffing and structure, this showed no sign of fading or losing fruit.

1997 Torres Mas La Plana – switching to 100% cabernet from across the Pyrenees was a bit jarring. Tasted side by side, this was my choice for best wine of flight. Dark with lots of oak (no surprise), smooth and drinking very well. They used a much fancier heavier bottle for this vintage – not sure when they switched.

1995 Torres Mas La Plana – this wine had its champions, and it did show lighter edges, not as much in the nose, higher acidity, more elegance, and was quite presentable. Neither wine had much complexity and I think that the Bordeaux was a difficult act to follow.

Many thanks for all the notes

I have had the 88 Pichon Baron only twice and found it ungenerous. Not tannic but without any savoury sweetness and quite unlike the next couple of years. Perhaps the bottles, which I bought together, had not been well kept. However it was perfectly drinkable and food improved the experience. Perhaps I drank it somewhat early too.

I remember Torres Mas La Plana when it was called Gran Coronas Black Label and even before it became 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. IMO its quality deteriorated sometime in the 80s [very odd for a Torres wine] and I lost touch with it. My favourite recent vintages are 1998 and 2001 and it was good to see your pretty positive notes.

I agree that the Torres wine isn't what iy used to be. I have a bottle or two of the 1978 stashed, and believe it is a better wine than anything since.

As for the 1988 Pichon Baron, when you describe your experience with it, it sounds like you are comparing the 1988 vintage with, say, the 1990. Yes, the 1988s are much more austere and less fruit forward than the 1990 (or the 1989) and always will be, but it is a classically structured Bordeaux vintage that will appeal to traditionalists (like me).

Bill,
I am a fan of '75, '88, '94 and all the more classic vintages. The problem is they take a long time to come around. I bought the '88 PB in '91, drank one bottle in '97 (TN, Good but wait) and have been wondering about the drinking window. Sounds like there is no hurry. Any experience with '88 Latour and '88 Rausan Segla? I have been sitting on these and only have 2-3 bottles of each. I never take these to tasting as they are always overpowered and only open them with my wife as we share an appreciation for this style wine.
Walt

I think the Pichon is on plateau now and will hold.

Afraid I don't have the Latour or Rausan - do you have any info on the Margaux? I'm wondering about that too.

I agree that the Torres wine isn't what iy used to be. I have a bottle or two of the 1978 stashed, and believe it is a better wine than anything since.

As for the 1988 Pichon Baron, when you describe your experience with it, it sounds like you are comparing the 1988 vintage with, say, the 1990. Yes, the 1988s are much more austere and less fruit forward than the 1990 (or the 1989) and always will be, but it is a classically structured Bordeaux vintage that will appeal to traditionalists (like me).

You are a lucky man IIRC the 78 [and the 79] were excellent Mas La Plana wines.The name change would have been made by then and the wine 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

I would not compare the 98 and 01 wines but they are a real step up from where the wines had fallen to.

When was the last time you had a 78? I wonder what they are like today. I admire your fearless attitude but at least you will know how a well made Torres Cabernet Sauvignon stands up when next you open one.

I understand your point about the Pichon. Mine was not a reasonable comparison [the 89] of vintages but I had no other reference with which to make my other comments. I don't drink much of the Baron [although I did buy a case of the 2001 which I think will be very good] preferring, generally, the Comtesse. Odd how often when one is great the other is less so.

I think the Pichon is on plateau now and will hold.

Afraid I don't have the Latour or Rausan - do you have any info on the Margaux? I'm wondering about that too.

To my memory I have not had the '88 Margaux, at least not in the last 10 years. My guess there is lots of time left.
Walt

You are a lucky man IIRC the 78 [and the 79] were excellent Mas La Plana wines.The name change would have been made by then and the wine 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was still called Gran Coronas Black Label in 1978 - I think they chagned by 1981, but not sure exactly when. It should still be in good shape. The 1970 was in great shape when I had it a few years ago - it still had other varietals in it, but I believe they went to 100% cab in the late 1970s.

I didn't buy any between 1982 and 2000 (which I did buy). It was a long 'dry' spell when I didn't think the wine was up to its former level.