I had always wanted to compare tannats from different countries, so last night I brought some friends for a tasting of three examples. Representing France was a top Madiran from Chateau Montus, so we framed the proceedings with a dry Pacherenc and a late harvest Pacherenc, both also from Montus. All reds were opened two hours prior to serving, and each wines was accompanied by a different cheese (noted).
2001 Château Montus Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Sec (Petit Corbu) with Clochette (goat). I have had two bottles of the 2003, which I really liked. The 2001 had a nose of oak, vanilla, and a touch of butter. Also a bit of wet dishrag and a whiff of oxidation (not present in the mouth). The taste was citric, with caramel and honey, the alcohol perhaps a touch intrusive, but with an excellent balance of sweetness and acidity. An excellent white, which deserves more exposure. Score: 89
2004 Cambiata Tannat Monterey with Gran Canaria (Wisconsin) (goat, sheep, and cow) Straightforward nose of cherry, and oak vanilla. Some mint, pepper, and crème brulée in the mouth, but with a slightly tart finish which I did not enjoy in this context. Thick tears on the sides of my glass, and I found the alcohol (stated as 14.3%) to be excessively noticeable, so that it feels out of balance. Given its youth, this should integrate within two or three years, when it might warrant a higher score. Score: 88
2002 Bodegas Juan Carrau Amat Tannat with Abbaye de Belloc (sheep) Cherry and oak nose with bacon and, again, a bit too much alcohol (perhaps I was unusually sensitive to alcohol last night). The taste confirmed the nose, including too much (14%) alcohol (my problem is not that it’s high, only that it’s noticeable). Aside from the alcohol, this wine is well made, integrated and harmonious, at a point in it’s lifecycle that is neither premature nor past it’s prime. Recommended. Score: 89
1990 Château Montus Madiran Cuvée Prestige with La Tur (goat, sheep, and cow) Still quite dark, but paler on the rims. On the nose, alongside the ubiquitous cherry and oak, a wonderful note of barnyard that only comes with age, with a whiff of asparagus. Additional notes of mint and chocolate in the mouth, but disappointing because the fruit has receded enough so that acidity dominates. It is still there, delicate and delicious, but not well-integrated. And, finally, no sense of excessive alcohol. Score: 90 (for the pedigree)
2000 Chateau Montus Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Brumaire (Petit Manseng) with Regal de Bourgogne (raisins macerées) (cow). Some oxidation on the nose of caramel and burnt sugar. Delicious in the mouth, with excellent balance of sweetness and acidity, and well-integrated pineapple and citrus notes. Very satisfying. Score: 91
As a comparison between different expressions of the tannat grape, the tasting was guaranteed to be a failure because of the excessively different bottle ages, but I could not find any older new world tannats, and Madirans are notoriously inaccessible in their youth. In honor of Don Quixote, I nevertheless went through with it, and cannot regret it because, once again, wine was a noble excuse to bring together friends and have a wonderful time.