Snapshot notes from a lovely get together of wine friends last month at Shiraz Restaurant, in Bingham Farms, Michigan.
As always, bubbles and whites were poured for starters:
1996 Bollinger “Grand Année” Champagne
There were actually two bottles of the Bollinger, the first one that Jim Friedman described as “grey market,” and the second, a US import. The “grey market” was slightly less chilled that the other, and perhaps that’s why it came off as being bigger, bolder and more pungent, with lots of yeasty, nutty bread dough and lemon curd shaded with a bit of sherried character; it also seemed a little sweeter than the second bottle, according to Mr. Friedman, who also commented that the second bottle was essentially the same, once it lost some of its chill. I didn’t take a second pour from the second bottle, but I'm sure his assessment is sound, as he knows his Bollinger. As it stands, both were delicious, but I preferred the less-chilled-when-I-tried-it first bottle slightly. Frankly, I could have cozied up with either for a few hours and gotten quite intimate, but there were other things being poured.
2005 J. L. Chave Crozes Hermitage Blanc
Medium straw in color, with a chalky, stony character that dominates the white fruit flavors, and it’s all the better for that, IMNSHO. Full bodied, with enough acidity to work well with the appetizers, this is a wine that really shows a “sense of place.” California Chardonnay fans would probably hate it, but everyone at this dinner likes it just fine. I do believe that this Marsanne-Roussanne blend is the first white Crozes Hermitage I’ve had the pleasure to get to know, even if ever so briefly, and it more than held it own against the considerably more expensive selection that followed.
2005 E. Guigal Condrieu La Dorian
Quite the contrast to the Chave, this pale straw colored Viognier is all about flowers and stones on the nose, with earthy white fruit, honeysuckle and bees wax flavors. Big, rich and powerful, with excellent acids and a long, lovely finish, there’s an obvious kiss of oak here, but it’s well integrated and unobtrusive. This was an excellent opportunity to try this highly regarded, critically acclaimed wine, because it’s doubtful that I’ll be spending $90 or so on one any time soon.
And then on to the main event:
2005 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Good dark color to this one, with a floral, spicy black plum and berry nose that follows through on the palate with sleek, rich character and notes of earth, iron and black olive as it opens. Very well proportioned and structured, and while it’s one of the most approachable of any of the reds poured on this occasion, it’s full of promise for a good long life. One of my co-favorites for best of flight, and indeed, probably the wine that sticks out in my mind the most from this evening.
2005 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This was a replacement in the flight for a corked Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It seems to give more red fruit Grenache character than the Donjon, and less earth and iron on the nose. Deeper, darker flavors show red and black plum and berry, and while it’s big and rich, it’s also rougher and less refined than the first selection.
2005 Domaine des Sénechaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This wine offers pretty floral red fruit flavors and aromas that seem to indicate a good dose of Grenache, all with a dusting of Provencal herbs and earthy undertones. The tannins are ample and the acids are racy.
2005 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Another one that gives lovely floral red and black plum and berry aromatics, turning earthy and spicy in the mouth, but the significant tannins and acids need years to tone down. All about promise right now.
2005 Domaine Olivier Hillaire “Les Petits Pieds d’Armand” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Black olives are apparent first and foremost, with the requisite earthy, spicy black and red plum and berry laced with iron; significant structure to this and yet so full of flavor, it’s hard to resist. The olive character really sets the tone here, and it’s one of my co-favorites of the flight.
2005 Domaine Olivier Hillaire “Vieilles Vignes” Cotes du Rhone
Poured in the transition between the first and second courses, this had originally been slated for the Hors D’Oeuvres, but then the two white Rhônes appeared. Obviously less expressive than the Châteauneuf-du-Papes, this nevertheless holds its own, with earthy, dusty red and black fruit that shows good structure. A good wine for a weeknight Red Wings game.
2005 Domaine Pierre Usseglio “Cuvée de Mon Aieul” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Well-mannered earthy black and red plum and berry with subtle spice and floral perfume and significant structure. As you’d expect, this needs time, but shows great promise.
2005 Domaine Bois de Boursan “Cuvée des Felix” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
A classic example of this house’s style, with its wonderfully distinct personality, delivering earthy, dusty black plum and berry laced with Provencal herbs and leather. I’m surprised that this showed none of the oak character that other vintages that we’ve tried have, but I’m not complaining. Very nice now, and better in 10 years. Best of flight and right there with the Donjon and Armand’s Little Feet.
2005 Domaine de Beauregard Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Straightforward Châteauneuf-du-Pape with no particularly distinctive characteristics that stand out in this crowd, but no real detractions either.
2005 Domaine de Beaurenard “Boisrenard” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Rich and perfumed, showing an obvious allspice characteristic that sets the tone for the rich red and black berry personality. Easily the most “international” in style of all of these, and not one of my favorites for that reason.
2005 Télégramme Châteauneuf-du-Pape, of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
Pure earthy red Grenache laden Châteauneuf-du-Pape; less complex than the rest, and although not bad by any means, it’s lost in the crowd.
2005 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape “la Crau”
Pure, lovely Vieux Télégraphe, not exactly sweet, and not even showing all that much earth and leather; just rich, pure, lovely red plum and berry made in the house style. One of the standouts of the evening.
2005 Chateau Fortia “Tradition” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Old wood (not corked), and earthy black fruit with big structure; good, but not up to the rest of the lineup.
2005 Chateau Fortia “Cuvée du Baron” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Expressive, lovely red and black plum and berry, with subtle earth and a certain perfumed character; excellent structure, and yet quite approachable. Very nice.
Of course, as is always the case with festivities such as this, there was a delicious dessert served, and even I partook, which is rare. One wine in particular stood out for me, more so than for some, apparently.
2001 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein
Pale to medium straw color, with ripe apple, sweet lemon, honey and petrol flavors and aromas; the petrol is anything but subtle, but it IS really good, and I wouldn’t like this as well without it. Delicate and rich at the same time, with good acidity; not quite thick, not quite unctuous, just brilliant. A couple of tasters commented on a note of sulfur that they found off-putting, and as I noted nothing like that, I wonder if they weren’t referring to the “petrol,” which is certainly a characteristic of Riesling not to everyone’s liking. I very much preferred this to the following selection.
1975 Chateau Rieussec Sauternes
Pale amber color, with middleweight caramel and honey flavors and decent acidity; reserved and not over the top. Nice, but I’ll always take a great German dessert wine over Sauternes. That’s just the kind of hairpin I am.
- from Red Wings, Red Rhônes & Other Delights
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.
