As you may already know, I look forward to the first Saturday of November for the annual Open House at Soos Creek Wine Cellars in Kent, WA. This small winery (~1200 cases) produces handcrafted Bordeaux blends made with grapes from many of the best vineyards in Washington. The event has become extremely popular, and was quite crowded this year.
Winemaker Dave Larsen released four new 2005 vintage wines, and he changed the blends quite a bit. One of these days, I would like to meet with him to understand if these steps are in reaction to grape availability or if they are evolutionary steps in branding his non-varietal blends. Perhaps the tasting notes below will make this clearer.
The prices listed below are what the winery charged that day, and they represent a 10% discount from list price. Yes, the prices increased again this year, and I understand that most of it is directly tied to the rising cost of the great grapes he uses.
2005 Soos Creek Sundance ($22.50): This wine again changed radically from previous years; Cabernet Franc dominated it in 2004 and Cabernet Sauvignon was dominant in 2003. The new blend is 64% Merlot, 16% Malbec, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Cabernet Franc. However, this is not just another fruit-forward, soft Merlot. The upfront aroma is very good, the flavor profile is quite complex, and the wine is well balanced with good acid and finish. Apparently, one of Seattle’s wine shops characterized this as more Bordeaux-like in flavor and structure, and called it the best Sundance vintage produced to date. 14.1% ABV
2005 Soos Creek Artist Series #5 ($31.50): Cabernet Sauvignon has dominated the Artist Series in past years, but the 2005 vintage changes this. The new blend is only 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, combined with 42% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot. Since I love Cabernet Franc, I find this combination to be very appealing. It delivers interesting complexity, with enticing fruit and spice aromas and flavors, and medium tannins in the structure. I plan to give my bottles at least a year or so to more fully integrate before trying it again. 14.1% ABV
2005 Soos Creek Ciel du Cheval Blend ($36): In past years, they had a sufficient supply of grapes to offer a Ciel du Cheval Cabernet Sauvignon. That changed with the 2004 vintage, and it appears the trend continued with this release. The new blend is 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc. These Red Mountain grapes have great flavor intensity, producing a wine that is lush and juicy; however, this wine is not over-the-top juicy. The combination of fruit, acid and tannin makes this a full-bodied wine that is drinkable today with some decanting, but will be better with aging. 14.1% ABV
2005 Soos Creek Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($36): Without a doubt, this is the big one, with 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. It is dark, intense and concentrated, with complex dark fruit flavors, and plenty of tannin and acid to allow for graceful aging. This is not a drink-now wine, and it needs to wait a few years. 14.1% ABV
In speaking with Dave Larsen, I learned that he obtained a shipment of Syrah grapes from the Wahluke slope this fall, and started his first batch of wine from that (non-Bordeaux) variety. I will be anxious to taste how it turns out, and suggested that he develop some interesting Syrah-based blends, like those from southwestern France (specifically, Minervois).
To learn more about Soos Creek wines, visit their web site: http://www.sooscreekwine.com/.
-- Clark