I had already made a reservation to dine at Enoteca Vin in Raleigh last Saturday before I received the e-mail saying that they would have special wine flights of premier cru and grand cru red burgundies that weekend. Perfect! I love Burgundies!
I order the ricotta gnocchi with wild mushrooms, roasted tomatoes and braising greens as my first course although it was listed as a main course. And I ordered the braised beef short rib with red cabbage and black currants as my main dish. I know the short rib at Vin is marinated for hours and is flavorful and tender.
After debating the choices I went with the 1.5 oz. tastings of three Grand Cru Burgundies for $24:
1998 Corton Bressandes, Domaine Chandon de Briailles
1996 Clos Vougeot, Domaine Rene Engel
1999 Clos Vougeot, Domaine Jean Grivot
and I decided to add (after the Burgundies) a 1.5 oz. pour of 2004 Piombo Shiraz, McLaren Vale. (I had been somewhat critical of this wine on a previous tasting note and got lambasted by an Ozzie citing its wonderful reviews. Also, Chrish Peel, co-owner of Carolina Wine Company and Enoteca Vin praises the Piombo so I thought I would give it a second try. More later.)
The food was excellent. The rib meat as tender as flavorful as the last time I tried it although Ashley was not there Saturday to oversee the cooking.
The wines did not get my creative juices going as far as detailed descriptions so I will put down my scanty notes and apologize for not really capturing the essence of the wines.
All three of the red Burgundies had similarities in color--the '96 not quite as intense a burgundy coloration.
I started with the 1998 Corton Bressandes from Domaine Chandon de Briailles rather than starting with the oldest wine. On the nose I found it suggestive of red cherries and rose hips. On the palate red berries, dry, but still somewhat fruity taste. Very, very smooth. Elegance and finesse. Drinking well now.
The 1996 Vougeot from Domaine Rene Engel had a somewhat earthier nose and more gravitas on the palate. I sensed more earth and more wood although not overbearing on the oak but more noticeable than with either of the other two Burgundies. Very fine silky tannins. Ready to drink. Wonderful with the shortrib.
The 1999 Vougeot from Domaine Jean Grivot seemed lighter, and brighter but pleasant--a littled "watered down" in comparison to the '96. It could be in an inbetween phase. I could taste a terroir similarity to the '96. I thought both Vougeot wines matched better with the short rib than the Corton Bressandes.
And that Piombo which I found to be "One of those inky purple dense opaque Australian bruisers. However, the fruit carries the alcohol pretty well. Okay. Not eager to buy again" back in May...
I only revised my opinion slightly upward this time. (Still wouldn't buy it.)
Much darker and denser than the Burgundies. Blackberries and/or black currants on the nose and palate. To me it tastes overripe or overextracted. But I have found a food that will stand up to it--the braised short rib at Enoteca Vin (and the side dish of red cabbage and black currants helps.)