WTN: A Tale of Two Malbecs

For the sake of comparison, last night I opened half bottles of the low and mid level malbecs from Catena Zapata and tried them with bread & brie. The results were, well, low and mid level…

Catena Zapata Alamos Malbec 2006
A Wine Spectator “best value,” but disappointing. A nose of cocoa, vanilla, and cherry, but barely perceptible. In the mouth, overwhelming acidity prevented any particular taste from coming through, creating a sensation of uncomfortable astringency on the sides of the tongue. The brie placated some of the astringency, allowing some coffee and cherry flavor to emerge against a background of dusty tannins. Though not a wine meant to be aged, I’d give it an 85 now, with the potential of becoming 86 or 87 if the acidity simmers down in a year or two.

Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza 2005
Dark, inky red, very dense color. Assertive and pleasant nose of vanilla and cherry. In the mouth, also showing bracing acidity, but this time offset by considerable fruit and slightly excessive sweetness. Very elegant mix of toast, old leather and blackberries; definitely in a higher category. Because of the illusion of age generated by the leather, I’d give this an 89.

On the subject of malbecs, a week ago I had a half bottle of Clos la Coutale Cahors 2003, which (according to Bob Parsons - hello Bob!) is 70% malbec. No notes but I quite liked it, especially given the price (a half bottle is obtainable in NY for $7).

On the subject of generating the illusion of age, about a month ago I tried the Faiveley Mercurey Clos Myglands 2004 and really liked it, especially as both nose and flavor had a touch of naphthalene that I found quite pleasing because, it later occurred to me, that suggested a more mature wine. Evidently this is because I associate naphthalene with age, almost as much as leather. I don’t know if others would feel the same, but I enjoyed this olfactory sleight-of-hand.

A question: Is it common for malbecs from Argentina to be made for near-immediate consumption or do they (or some subset of Argentine malbecs) require/benefit from aging in the short/medium/long-term?

I would defer to Alejandro on this one, but would say that the finest ones I've tried (Achaval-Ferrer Fincas and Vina Cobos Marchiori Vineyard) can age 10 yrs or more. But I imagine that in Argentina, like everywhere else, less than 5% of wines are meant for ageing and, furthermore, I think the finest Argentinian malbecs haven't been around long enough to gauge their true longevity.

Hello Oswaldo,
You seem to be quite Malbec Literate. Which lead me to send you the following link, enjoy!

Open Mike: Malbec

Oswaldo... great notes and very glad to see you onboard to talk about Malbec (and of course other wines!).

I think there are a good number of Malbecs (pure) and also Malbec blends that are age-worthy, although I am also completely in argeement that Malbec made to modern standards has not been around long enough to answer the question of super long term cellaring (we would, btw, have to define what we all mean by long term).

Having said that, I think its already safe to say that the best quality wines made entirely of Malbec (or relevant components therof in blends) can certainly age well beyond the 10 year mark. Some examples of this are bottles of 1997 Angelica Zapata that are very much alive and kicking.... this just to name an example.

Thank you Alejandro and Oswaldo for your insights--very interesting.

Thank you, Aaron, for the link. That's where I got the information on the Clos la Coutale by typing malbec in the search engine. There's much useful information there.

Alejandro, thank you for your kind comments and experienced input. A trip or two to BA and Mendoza is in the stars for the coming year, and I look forward to meeting you then.

OC wrote.......On the subject of malbecs, a week ago I had a half bottle of Clos la Coutale Cahors 2003, which (according to Bob Parsons - hello Bob!) is 70% malbec. No notes but I quite liked it, especially given the price (a half bottle is obtainable in NY for $7).

So how were the vintage conditions down there in `03?
I would have cellared this one for a few years!!!

Hi, Bob, your question left me hemispherically confused! You wrote "down there", but Clos la Coutale is a Cahors (you yourself reviewed it).

If by "down there" you mean Argentina, 2003 was an excellent vintage in Mendoza.

You're right: the Clos la Coutale, though not meant as a vin de garde, can certainly age a bit, but half bottles, as you well know, age faster than full bottles, and the half bottle of 2003 Coutale is already drinking very nicely.

Ahem, on the subject of "down there," it's only because so-called northern countries colonized so-called southern countries that globes show the latter below the former. If, instead, the so-called southern countries had colonized the so-called northern countries, globes would show Argentina and Brazil in the top half, and Europe and the US in the bottom half, and you'd be asking me about conditions "up there".

Hi, Bob, your question left me hemispherically confused! You wrote "down there", but Clos la Coutale is a Cahors (you yourself reviewed it).

Sorry if I caused some confusion. I was referring to Cahors down there! I do this all the time, I refer to myself being up here but feel sure many have no idea where central north Alberta is!! LOL.

Oswaldo, do keep me posted about your Argentina travel plans.... who knows, maybe we can arrange an Off Line wine dinner if we can gather enough interest....?

Thank you, Alejandro, I would love that. Alex, it's a deal!

Oswaldo, the new vintage of Coutale, the `05, has just arrived up here.. One to put away for sure, I`d say. There are some interesting notes on cellar-tracker!

Thanks for the head's up, Bob. I picked up two more half bottles of the 2003 while in NY recently, but didn't see the 2005. Have been focusing on some of the less high-profile 2005 Burgundies lately - see them as relatively well-priced v. Bordeaux, but will need a ton of time in the cellar.

Alejandro, Marcia and I may have a free week to go to Argentina on February 25. Perhaps a few days in BA then a few days in Mendoza. Would that be a good time for offline? I think it would be tremendous fun, and perhaps some of our northern hemisphere friends would welcome a break from Winter.

Hi Oswaldo,

Thank you for the notes and the additional information on Malbecs. Your notes are helpful in getting my feet (or my palate) wet with the varietal.

Look forward to catching up with you in one of the NY offlines soon.

Ramon

WTN: `05 Clos la Coutale, Cahors.

Last night on my way into the Grill, to help out, share some bubbly and be a general bother to everyone, I popped into DeVines to try the tasting bar selection including a `00 Haut-Medoc and some Seppelts Muscats and Tawnys. The newly arrived Coutale was the main attraction for me!

Medium purple in color, nose had meaty quality, some funk, herbs, blackberry. Not as tannic as I had feared but as usual needs time. Dry, plums earthy,black berry. The fruit is there but cellaring will help. Good structure and a bargain at $17 Cdn. People were buying but drink now?

Thanks, Bob, like everywhere else, Cahors must be jacking up quality to compete, and I'm glad to hear that the widely distributed Coutale is holding up. At the last wine expo in São Paulo, there were at least two Cahors producers touting their wines as malbecs, trying to take advantage of the considerable visibility of malbec in Brazil.

The Parker website has just come out with unprecedented ratings on Argentinean reds. Several at 98 and at east one barrel sample at 98-100. Whatever one thinks of Parker (or Jay Miller) or even ratings in general, I think it signals a (well-deserved, IMHO) coming of age for Argentina and malbec.

Yes.... the Parker/Miller ratings have caused quite a stir...

Alej, Robin has suggested we study Malbec next month here on Wine Focus. Guess you will be around to help out?

Yep... Im game!!