Saturday, November 24, 2007
THANKSGIVING WINES were the subject of many emails I got in response to last weekend’s Wine Press. First, Bill Barton of Bellwether Hard Cider (http://www.cidery.com) appropriately reminded me that hard cider is a great accompaniment to the robust, complex flavors of turkey day, as are a number of other non-grape wines. Our colleague Vicky Sharlau (Washington Association of Winegrape Growers) said that, in addition to fabulous Washington wines, her family had a terrific Cranberry wine from Wisconsin. I enjoyed (besides a New York Riesling) two terrific “gift wines” from Monterrey, CA (Paraiso Vineyards Pinot Noir) and Vermont (Apple/Maple wine from Putney Mountain Winery). Dorothy Gaiter of the Wall St. Journal recommended a terrific bubbly from Long Island, Pugliese 2002 Blanc de Noir Nature. Tim Patterson of Wines & Vines wrote, “you’ll be glad to know that out here in sunny California, we’ll be drinking Finger Lakes Riesling on Turkey Day” and referenced his blog where, following our New York Wine & Food Classic in Napa, he said “in my humble view, the Finger Lakes make the best Riesling in the New World” (http://blindmuscat.typepad.com/tims_fin ... .html#more). Whatever wines you had from wherever, I hope you enjoyed them in the warmth of family and friends.
NEW YORK GOLD was discovered at the recent American Wine Society competition, where New York wineries combined for over 100 medals led by Chateau Frank, the sparkling wine sister of Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, with a Double Gold for its Celebre, and Golds for Celebre Rosé, 2000 Blanc to Blancs, and 2000 Blanc de Noirs, joined by a Gold for Dr. Frank’s 2006 Semi-Dry Riesling. Other Gold medals went to Chateau LaFayette Reneau Emporer’s Blush, Chiappone Cellars 2006 Diamond and 2006 Traminette, Cobblestone Farm Winery 2006 Cobblestone Red, Duck Walk Vineyards 2005 Vidal Blanc Ice Wine and 2006 Pinot Grigio, Fox Run Sable, and Glenora 2006 Dry Riesling. Two additional Gold medals came from the Denver International competition, going to Lamoreaux Landing 2006 Gewurztraminer and Oak Summit 2005 Pinot Noir. This is the slow season for competitions, most of which take place in the first few months of each year, and with the fabulous quality vintage of 2007, next year promises to be a New York Gold Rush.
RIESLING is getting increasing media attention across the country, which is likely to increase production and sales, which will stimulate more media attention, and so on—creating the “snowball effect”. In addition to frequent Riesling proponents Dan Berger (Vintage Experiences and more) and Howard Goldberg (New York Times, Decanter, Wine News), and coverage in major wine and/or food magazines (print and on line), general publications are running stories from Annapolis to Des Moines and Detroit, San Marcos, Scranton, and even United Airlines’ “Hemispheres” in-flight magazine extolling the elegance and food-friendly virtues of Riesling wines. Hoping to catch the wave, the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance is using our regional branding grant to promote the area’s internationally acclaimed Riesling; and wineries like Fulkerson are increasing their Riesling acreage to keep up with booming demand.
NEW YORK CITY is the world’s toughest wine market, but also one that we’re going to focus on increasingly in the future. “If you can make it here, you’ll make it anywhere”, was Frank Sinatra’s advice in the song “New York, New York”, and that certainly applies to wine. The good news: We’re close to it. The bad news: We’re close to it. In most major cities like San Francisco, Seattle, and Portland, restaurants and wine shops proudly feature the state’s fine wines. Not so in New York. There is no regional chauvinism here, especially given the upstate-downstate geopolitical divisions, as well as reverse discrimination (“if it’s local, it can’t be good”). New York City lies within New York State, but it’s really a city of the world, with the most diverse ethnic and cultural population anywhere. It’s also the major port of entry for wines from around the world, and New York wines are just a tiny part of the mix. But we’re making progress: Our October “New York Wines & Dines” program included over 70 top restaurants and 20 fine wine shops, with follow-up surveys showing lots of new accounts and sales for New York wineries. We’re now focusing some sophisticated market research on the Big Apple, and with the Pride of New York program are sponsoring a major New York winery presence at the first New York Wine Expo in March, followed by several other initiatives. We’re also developing a strategy to establish a more permanent and visible presence next year and beyond. All it takes is money….
CONSUMER POWER works when people like Steve Stork (Stork Insurance, one of our supportive Business Associate members) mention their disappointment about the lack of New York wines to a restaurateur. Recently, Steve spoke up and also gave to Phoebe’s Restaurant in Syracuse one of our restaurant cards that says, “The meal was fine…but where’s the New York wine?” and includes referrals to our office along with more information about how New York wines can enhance their wine list and business. Result: Phoebe’s added some New York wines. We need more people like Steve who will speak up. For a supply of “restaurant cards”, contact BonitaHampton@nywgf.org.
LAND PRESERVATION is one of the many benefits of the grape and wine industry, and Cornell Cooperative Extension is the ideal group to explain why and how. “Protecting Agricultural Lands in the Finger Lakes’ is a one-day conference on December 10 in Geneva sponsored by the Finger Lakes Sustainable Farming Center along with CCE of Ontario, Seneca and Yates counties. Cost is only $10 per person, with more information available at 315-536-5123.
NAPA VALLEY is often used as a benchmark in various areas, and the October edition of Wines & Vines had some fascinating statistics with implications for New York, and specifically the Finger Lakes. Legendary grape grower Andy Beckstoffer compared 1968 with 2006 in terms of vineyard acreage (11,900 vs. 42,188), tons of grapes harvested (38,276 vs. 152,776), cabernet price per ton ($300 vs. $3,960), vineyard land value per acre ($2K-$4K vs. $150K - $350K), value of grapes ($6 million vs. $469 million), brick & mortar wineries (15 vs. 400). Interestingly, the Finger Lakes is nearly identical today with where Napa started in terms of acreage, tonnage, and land prices, though with over 100 wineries already. Let’s hope the value of grapes increases as well so our great growers can smile all the way to the bank.
“God loves fermentation just as dearly as he loves vegetation.”
Ralph Waldo Emerson
A Votre Santé To Your Health