WTN: Martinez Bujanda 1998 Conde de Valdemar Rioja Reserva

Oak juice, colored red. Actually it had a rather nice red fruit nose at first, but after 10 minutes of air I couldn't even drink the stuff. More oak than a pointy California Cabernet. At least it was only $11 I poured down the drain. Opened a 2000 ESJ Los Robles Viejos to console myself.

Conde de Valdemar is awful.

The old Martinez Bujanda designated wines were good, but that was 20 years ago.

Joe, how are the current Faustinos? At dinner a few weeks ago, we had no problem killing 2 bottles of the 94 Gran Riserva.

Lots of bottle variation with those 94 Faustino I, glad you got a couple of the good ones!

Try hunting down Riojanas, Cune, Contino, Muga, La Rioja Alta, R Lopez de Heredia, Ramon Bilbao, Castillo Labastida, Marques de Riscal or Marques de Murrieta "Castillo Ygay" for some that are a step up.

Best,
Joe

Muga

Careful with some of the Muga wines, though. A recent 2001 Muga Rioja Reserve was very oaky, much more new wood flavor than the '99 version seemed, at least to me. Maybe it needs more time. The Torre Muga bottling also seems to be pretty heavy with new wood. Maybe better to try the Muga Prado Enea.

You're right, Mark- The 2001 Muga Reserva is oaky, but I have faith it will come around with 8-10 years. A lot of Rioja producers have modern cuvees - Riscal has the Baron de Chirel, Murrieta has the Dalmau, Contino has the Vina del Olivio, Cune has the Real de Asua, Muga has the Torre Muga and Aro. Of the producers I listed, the only guys who don't have one are Riojanas, RLdH, and La Rioja Alta.

Best,
Joe