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WTN: Holiday cheer

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Holiday cheer

by Florida Jim » Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:31 pm

Pasta with beans, veggies and turkey bacon:
2005 Philippe Faury, St. Joseph:
Initially too sweet, almost candied but after about five minutes the sugar recedes and a meaty, bacon tinged syrah nose takes over; solid black fruit in the mouth with some meaty, mineral complexity, satin texture, good balance and length. A nice wine that fits a variety of cuisine and has a shelf life. 12.8% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $27; I’d buy more.
Pairs well with the food, yet retains its identity.

Salmon cakes with mustard dressing, a small green salad and unsalted potato chips:
2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:
Incredible wine; full aromatics of white fruit, citrus, seashell and fresh air; crisp but broad across the palate, lots of complex flavors competing for attention, excellent acidity and balance; marvelous length. To think that one gets this much wine for this price; for me, white Burgundy is but a memory. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13, on release; back up the truck.
Good with the salmon, outstanding with the potato chips. This wine is so full and complete yet without oak overtones or manipulation; beautiful on its own, killer with food.

Baked egg plant with feta and pasta with red sauce:
1998 Ogier, Côte Rôtie:
Day one: faint scents of fruit on the nose and nothing else; tannic, acidic and sour in the mouth; left in the decanter 24 hours on the counter . . .
Day two: substantial green tones on the nose but also red fruit, ash and earth; medium body, solid fruit and herb flavors, fair balance with a bit too much tannin showing and medium length.
In its early life, this showed as well as any syrah I have had from the northern Rhône. I still remember taking it to a friend’s birthday party at a fancy inn and having it be the hit of the evening. But these days it is surly, stingy and wants nothing more than to sleep. 12% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $41 on release; I have enough.
Much better wine with the food as the co-mingling of flavors seems to blend well and the texture smoothes out. Not the wine’s best showing by a long shot but not as bad as initial sniffs might have indicated.

Dinner with family:

Baby green salad with walnuts and cheddar with cranberries:
N/V Colet, Cava Brut A priori:
Fine and persistent bead, flavors with depth and a clean, fresh finish. A very nice wine with or without food. 11.5% alcohol, imported by Vinos & Gournet and price unknown; worth having again.
Pretty with the salad without any fighting between the wine and the dressing. A good choice.

Coq au vin
2004 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne La Diogoine:
Bright scents of red fruits, fresh herbs and earth; much the same in the mouth, silky texture, good balance and an elegant, deft delivery; medium length. Showing better than expected and a very nice drink. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $22 on release; so worth it.
Ben and Jerry, Orville and Wilbur, Diane and Jim; great pairings all and this is every bit their equal – made for each other. Above all, the respective weights and textures work in unison.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Holiday cheer

by Dale Williams » Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:56 am

Thanks as always for evocative notes. I ordered some of the Faury, but at pickup time they had sold out. Damn, will have to look again

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