WTN: 2003 Alex Gambal Volnay "Les Santenots" 1er Cru, Burgundy

I purchased this Premeier Cru red Burgundy from Burgundy Wine Company in New York City.
I've met Alex at several past Nantucket Wine Festivals and think he is a negociant/eleveur worth following although his prices are increasing along with the rest of the Burgundies.
13% alcohol
Pretty crimson color with purple shadings and slight transparency. Fragrant and appealing nose. Whisp of clove with cherry scent dominant over rhubarb. Soft and seductive on the palate. Very fine tannins. Beautiful "feminine" Volnay that would be versatile with many foods. Did not suffer from overripe grapes or elevated alcohol despite the hot summer in Europe in 2003. I drank this the first night with potato and cheese pierogies.

Hi JC,

Here is a post I wrote after visiting Gambal in Feb. I've tried the 2003s as well. I agree with you and actually think that the '03 heat wave fits with the Gambal style.


Alex Gambal is doing what few Americans even dream of: Making high-profile wine in Beaune. Although the Gambal style is not for everyone (I described them as "Modern" - the record player skipped and the whole staff glared at me). You can't fault them for being passionate. I must admit, the '06s taste very good and are bursting with bright, high-toned fruit. They are certainly a good 'Bridge-Bourgogne' for fans of New-world Pinot Noir.

Bourgogne Blanc 2006
Very citric (of course the malo wasn't finished, but even so), with apples, straw, pear skin. Light, fresh, uncomplicated.

Meursault Clos du Cromin 2006
Very aromatic, almost Viognier-like. Tropical fruit, pineapple, flowers and honey.

Puligny-Montrachet 2006
1 yr old barrel -linear styled, good balance of crunchy apples, pear, banana, citus and mineral. Should have considerable elegance.

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2006
Intense and searing, Fresh and light bodied -very vintage indicative. Focused on mineral and plenty of acid. Reductive -Fruit is hidden, but pear and starfruit is evident.

Bourgogne Rouge 2006
Gentil -Fresh and fruity -Strawberry, cranberry fruit, bright and juicy. Not much to my liking.

Chambolle-Musigny 2006
VERY Chambolle at this stage -Pretty red fruit of Strawberry and Raspberry, roses, red licorice. Plush texture. It seems like it may get BIG.

Volnay Santenots V.V.
More power, rounder mouth feel, strawberry jam, rhubarb, spice. large for the vintage. straightforward and sexed up.

I failed to notice before posting that the 2003 Volnay "Les Santenots" I had was also labeled "Vieilles Vignes." I really like what old vines do for red Burgundies and Zinfandels and possibly other varieties.

[David M. Bueker]

Gambal is a producer that has just started to show up locally. Thanks for the tip. I may try a few.

Among his whites I've liked the basic Meursault and the Chassagne-Montrachet "Clos St. Jean." The reds that have impressed me have been the Volnay "Les Santenots" and the Nuits-St-Georges "Aux Murgers." (One vintage at least was quite mushroomy and went superbly with a mushroom risotto at a restaurant in Charlottesville.) I would love to try some of the Chambolle-Musigny which is one of my favorite Burgundy appellations.