WTN / WineAdvisor: Golden oldie (Baumard 1997 Savennières)

[Robin Garr]

Golden oldie

Possibly one of the best Loire white wines by any definition, Savennières is also among the least well-known and perhaps the least popular.

Why the seeming contradiction? Besides being made in relatively limited quantities, Savennières may be one of the most difficult Loire whites to get to know. By its nature, this intense, mineral-laden Chenin Blanc is a rare thing for a white: a wine so one-dimensional and frighteningly acidic in its youth that it <i>needs</i> as long as a decade in the bottle before maturity brings it around to a rich, imposing complexity that ranks it among the great ones.

Sacrifice a young Savennières before it is time, and - even more than with an immature, tannic red - you're almost certain to be disappointed. It's no surprise that a lot of wine lovers who've tried one or two young Savennières have simply given up on the type and moved on to more accessible options.

But get your hands on a mature one, and it's a revelation, as well as, often, a very good deal. Because of its quirky nature, young Savennières often go for very attractive prices in the $10 range. If you have the facilities, and the patience, you could do much worse than to load your cellar with a case or two of a current vintage for drinking around 2012.

Alternatively, at a somewhat higher price and marginally greater risk, do as I did: Keep an eye on your favorite wine shops in hope a dusty bottle will appear. I was delighted, if a bit wary, to find a bunch of 1997s from the respected producer Domaine de Baumard at a local shop recently for a little over $20. I checked the bottles suspiciously, but couldn't spot any sediment or cautionary darkening of color through the bottle, and the capsule turned freely, a small clue that no significant amount of seepage had worked its way out around the cork. I took the risk and was duly rewarded with a rich, complex Chenin Blanc that's still very much alive.

That's no surprise, really. Barring terrible treatment, Savennières may be <i>the</i> most ageworthy dry white. A good example from a fine vintage can last 20 or even 30 years in a temperature-controlled cellar.

<table border="0" align="right" width="165"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/baum0512.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Domaine des Baumard 1997 Savennières ($21.99)

This is a clear, straw-color wine with distinct glints of gold. Lovely aromas show still-vibrant white fruit with a dance of mature-white aromas that include almonds, butterscotch and banana oil. Full-bodied flavors are consistent with the nose, clean fruit and butterscotch shaped by lively acidity, with complex mineral flavors lurking just beneath the surface. Very fine wine, mature but by no means going around the bend. Ex Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, Calif.. (May 12, 2005)

<B>FOOD MATCH:</b> Complex enough for sipping thoughtfully as an after-dinner drink, but it went beautifully with a robust fish dinner, fresh cod baked on a bed of thin-sliced potatoes with plenty of garlic and olive oil.

<B>VALUE:</B> Not a budget wine, but it fully justifies this local sale price, and then some.

<B>WHEN TO DRINK:</B> With abundant fruit remaining, balanced structure and only subtle oxidative flavors, this one should still have years to go before it fades.

<B>WEB LINK:</B>
Domaine de Baumard has an excellent, well-designed and content-rich Website, but it appears to be entirely in French.

However, English speakers might enjoy reports on the property on two excellent British Websites, the Wine Doctor (Chris Kissack), and the Wine Anorak (Jamie Goode).

<B>FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:</B>
Find prices and online vendors for Baumard Savennières on Wine-Searcher.com.

That's a great precis on Savennieres, Robin. Gives folks a very clear and idea of what they may come up against with the wine---but also what they might enjoy if they essay the effort.

As a Savennieres lover of the first rank, I've had the full range of experiences, from the ridiculous to the sublime, and I can add one tip that might help with those young, undeveloped Savennieres:

if you pop open a bottle of Savennieres and find it is still in the 'screeching acidity' stage and not showing anything beyond that, you might consider serving it with a very high acid food. For instance, if you're having fish, you could simply add a good squeeze of lemon juice.

Old chef's trick: acid in the food will soften the acid in the wine. Then you'll be able to better enjoy both!

Then you go back and write "Do Not Open For Ten Years!!!" on all the rest of those bottles in your cellar.

may be one of the most difficult Loire whites to get to know. By its nature, this intense, mineral-laden Chenin Blanc is a rare thing for a white: a wine so one-dimensional and frighteningly acidic in its youth

Yes, although as in so many other regions it seems the new folks think that is more a function of overcropping and picking early, rather than terroir. I think there's something to be said for that argument, although it remains to be seen how much "terroir" will be shown over time in the richer bottles.

Plus, while underripe grapes have clearly been a problem for many in Savennieres, the better examples can combine the backwards profile with phenolic maturity.

Interesting wines as always..