by Tim York » Sun Oct 28, 2007 8:37 am
Stefano P runs a good example of that typically Belgian institution, the small one man specialist wine business run from home or, in his case, from a small warehouse the outskirts of Liège. His speciality is Italy and he offers wines of a couple or so well chosen growers from each of Italy’s important regions. His range is, of course, much smaller than that of the major importer on whom I reported last week but his prices are much more reasonable.
On this occasion he organized a tasting to show ten wines from Italy’s Deep South but, at the end, with great generosity opened three bottles of superb wine, two from Tuscany and one from Piedmont, as a bonus. If his object was to sell the Southern wines, I’m not sure that this was wise as these three showed up the relative lack of class and complexity of the southerners but, as a way of cementing goodwill, it was fabulous.
So, first for the bonus wines –
Fattoria di Fèlsina – Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI)
Chianti Classico 2005
This is the estate’s basic Chianti Classico but it is lovely. N: Pure plum fruit with a sweeter hint than usual. P: Right from the entry this wine was more friendly and accessible than most young Fèlsina CC; body was medium weight, fruit round, “sweet” but lively; there were attractive minerals and Chianti tang allied to elegance, tannins less marked than usual and good length; one of us remarked that there was a touch of Chinon Cabernet franc and I see what he means. A very forward but fine Fèlsina. Stefano thinks that the wine has improvement potential but, on this showing, I plan to start drinking mine right away; I have given a good 5+ years to most other vintages. 16+/20.
Fontalloro 2001
N: Spectacular with deep sweet red fruit, a touch of blackberry and meat with rose notes. P: Deeply integrated and quite seamless palate with rich red fruit, aromas as on the nose, velvety mouth-feel but showing Sangiovese tang, impressive structure and great length. Already a superb bottle but probably will develop further with more complex secondary aromas; 17.5/20+ with further potential.
Luciano Sandrone – Barolo (CN)
Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore 2002
This is revelatory of what a fine grower can do in a poor year. N: Tender fruit with meaty touch. P: Similar in weight to the Fèlsina CC showing full pure fruit, polished patina (well managed wood) and considerable elegance. I remember the 1997 as richer and the 1998 as showing more structure but this is fine; 16/20.
And now for a rapid survey of the Deep South offerings but I begin with a couple of observations. First, this is further confirmation of the drinkable freshness now being obtained in Southern whites. Second, the reds can be solid with some attractive local colour but they lack the class not only of good Sangiovese and Nebbiolo based wines, like those above, but also of the best Aglianico from Vulture and Campania, like the range of A. del Vulture from Cantine de Notaio which I tasted last week.
The CHARDONNAY 06 (EUR 7,21) from MANDRAROSSA (Sicily) had a very pretty nose of fresh and candied fruit but its palate was by comparison bland but showed good freshness with just some melon and mineral peeping though; 14/20. I liked less the MARMORELLE 06 (80% Chard., 20% Malvasia B.) from RUBINO (Puglia) with its gluey nose and bitter touch on the finish; 13/20. Much better was LEONE D’ALMERITA 06 from REGALEALI (Sicilia) from Cattaratto, Chardonnay and Tasca (a cousin of Sauvignon); the nose was quite complex with notes of sweet tropical fruit and the medium weight palate showed good fruit and was aromatic with a Sauvignon type freshness and gooseberry touch; 15/20. BIANCO DI CORTE 05 from PATERNOSTER (Basilicata) - 100% Fiano- was an award winner in Vino Magasine but, as so often with such eminence, over luxurious oak treatment came along; the nose was complex and attractive as was the entry and mid-palate but the finish was spoilt, for me, by strong caramel notes; 13.5/20.
CODICI 06 (EUR 6,12) from MGM (Puglia) - Primitivo/Merlot - was a very pretty wine with attractive round fruit showing plum, strawberry and spice and fair grip; Stefano says that it sells like hot cakes in restaurants and I can well believe it; 14.5/20. I cared less for BONERA 04 from MANDRAROSSA (Sicilia) – Nero d’Avola (“NA”) and Cabernet Sauvignon 50/50 – with its good fruit and structure but slightly jammy and caramel hints; 14/20. MARMORELLE 05 from RUBINO (Puglia) – Negroamaro (“NM”) 80%, Malvasia N 20%- showed aromas of prune, fig and pepper and quite deep plum with a savoury note but not much length; 14.5/20. LAMURI 05 from REGEALALI (Sicilia) – 100% NA - was quite big but soft and round with tang towards the finish but also some orange peel and caramel hints; 14/20. JADDICO 04 from RUBINO (Puglia) – NM 70, Montepulciano 15% and Malvasia N 15% - seemed a bit closed but fruit came up with swirl; there was a not unattractive bitter note on the finish and an impression of some potential; 14.5/20. Stefano found some reductive notes on VISELLIO 04 a Sicilian wine from producer RUBINO – 100% NA – but I did not detect them; the nose showed round and sweet red fruit and the palate showed good depth and ripeness, structure and more length than the others; 15+/20.
Tim York