WTN: Burgs on a wire

Robert Chevillon 2002 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, $16
Delightful nose with cherry, smoke, flowers, cinnamon, earth and minerals. On the palate, nice cherry fruit is accented by cinnamon, earth, minerals and a very light touch of beetiness, which doesn’t detract. Nice acidity, well-balanced, smooth, delicious. The next day, it’s more tart, but still enjoyable, especially with food, as some tomato skin mixes in with the cherry, smoke, earth and minerals. Some tannins remain. Excellent match with spaghetti. Importer: Kermit Lynch.

Sylvie Esmonin 2001 Bourgogne Cuvée Sylvie, $18.30
My last of three bottles and every one was terrific. This has excellent aromas of Pinot cherry, cinnamon and roses, with flavors of more Pinot cherry, cinnamon and earth, along with some gamy notes. It’s bright, refreshing, silky smooth, and an outstanding match with hot alder-smoked Copper River sockeye. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Joseph Voillot 1999 Bourgogne, $14
This is nice with rich earthy cherry on the nose accented by some cinnamon. The palate has rich cherry, verging on cough drop but not quite, with some earth and spice. It’s medium-bodied and smooth with good acidity. Excellent match with grilled wild coho salmon. Two days later, the aromas and flavors are stronger, the fruit is richer, almost to the point of seeming New Worldy, though there was more than enough balancing acidity present. Importer: Michel Schlumberger.

Armelle et Bernard Rion 2002 Bourgogne La Croix Blanche Vieilles Vignes, $15
This has very nice Pinot cherry, earth, floral and mineral aromas. The palate generally follows, though it seemed a bit diluted at first, but with time, the fruit and earthy richness grows. It’s very smooth with some structure that is generally provided by the acidity rather than tannins, but I don’t think it’s past peak. Goes great with a potato/egg/onion/cheese frittata. The next day, it’s not as good, seeming as though there was some VA on the nose and heat on the palate, yet still drinkable. Importer: Elite Wine Imports

Ghislaine Barthod 2001 Bourgogne le Bons Batons, $15
This wine is very much on the earthy, cinnamony side of things — no floral accents — but it’s very enjoyable with good cherry fruit, a velvety texture and bright acidity, making it an excellent match with hot smoked wild coho salmon with a maple/soy/ginger glaze and with pesto. Importer: Neal Rosenthal.

[David M. Bueker]

I loved that Chevillon when it was released. Sadly I didn't buy much.

I bought three. Now they're all gone.

Unfortunately, I have yet to see this bottling in any vintages beyond the 2002.

[David M. Bueker]

Come to think of it I have not either. I have seen the Groffier Passetoutgrain, but not Chevillon. I did manage to score some 2005 Chevillon Bourgogne Rouge though, so my pain is somewhat lessened.

I did manage to score some 2005 Chevillon Bourgogne Rouge though, so my pain is somewhat lessened.

Well, now you've given me Pinot envy!

Love the thread title, Bruce.

I started one a few years ago called "Looking for Mr. Good Barolo".

I loved that Chevillon when it was released. Sadly I didn't buy much.

Ditto. I haven't seen since, either. But I've also noted that suddenly good producers' PTG are $20!
I also liked the Esmonin and the Barthod.

I've also noted that suddenly good producers' PTG are $20!

It's even worse than that; I bit the bullet and tried to buy the Lafarge Passetoutgrain from Chambers Street at $27, but it was sold out.

Thanks but I'm an amateur and a hack when it comes to punny titles; the reigning pro at this no longer posts here. But with a few more like the one you came up with, you could be ready to assume the mantle.

Bruce,

Thanks for all the notes. I enjoyed reading them as always. I have had some good luck with some 2001 burgs recently, with the wines pretty open without a long decant. A few 2002's seemed closed or one dimensional right now.

Has anyone tried the 04's Chevillon wines? The 2004 Bourgogne is showing up at decent prices so I ordered some, but I saw a discouraging note on the 04 Chevillon NSG Pruliers that described the wine as being hot with hollow fruit. The note went on to generalize that 2004 might be a tough vintage for Chevillon.

[David M. Bueker]

I've tried every single 2004 Chevillon. I like 'em a lot. I bought some '04 Bourgogne, and will eventually by some 1ers when they close out (they're not moving).

Thanks, Marc. As the notes indicate, I've been pleased with the 2001s I've opened recently. I've got a bunch of 2002s waiting in the cellar and I had been wondering about what to do with them; sounds like waiting a bit longer would make sense. As far as 2004 Chevillons, I'd love to get my hands on some, but no luck yet.