WTN: Oh my!

2000 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Les Clos:
Clear, sweet lemon tones with mineral, fresh air and licorice notes all in harmony; viscous yet bright in the mouth, flavors echo the nose with several layers of each, and there is a savory note here . . . salted meat maybe . . . , perfectly integrated and balanced, supple but spicy on the tongue such that the mouth is both freshened and caused to water, depth, finesse and class; one of the most remarkable finishes I could imagine – endless, seamless and not only do the flavors persist in the mouth but the back of the throat, as well.
Memorable now, heaven knows what it will be like later but it surely will go a very long time in the cellar. Utterly brilliant – when someone asks what grand vin Chablis should smell, feel and taste like, this is the answer. 13% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands and about $45 on release; worth multiples of that.
Vincent Dauvissat is a genius.
Served with a simple pasta with butter and fresh herbs; devine.

Best, Jim

[James Roscoe]

Jim how would you describe the difference between a Chablis and a regular white Burgundy? I had the Javillier Bourgogne "les Forgets" 2004 on Sunday and it was a little oaky to my taste. Now your bottle may be on a different level, but I have really liked white Burgundy in the past and this reminded me a little too much of a California chardonnay. It wasn't even an '03 which tend to be a little ripe.

Dauvissat is God.

the difference between a Chablis and a regular white Burgundy?

Chablis is further north. In general it is more direct, linear, crisp, sometimes austere in comparison to its pedestrian relatives further south.

the difference between a Chablis and a regular white Burgundy?

Chablis is further north. In general it is more direct, linear, crisp, sometimes austere in comparison to its pedestrian relatives further south.

James,
Rahsaan's comment only goes part way, IMO.
Many white Burgundys are oaky to my taste - in some, that component does exactly what you found; it transports the wine to CA - in others, it can add a spicy note and can soften the flavors. Very occasionally, I will have one that I would rather drink than good Chablis. Very occasionally.

For me, Chablis has a more lemon influenced nose and palate and, while it is all of the things Rahsaan notes, I find it also emphasizes the taste of the grape - and really well-made chardonnay can be as delightful as any wine. Yet even in doing so, it also delivers a sense of place that would be hard to mistake for its southern neighbor.
Further, I find that the best producers in Chablis, many of whom use some oak, have been able to get the fruit/oak balance right - such that the oak is all but unnoticeable in the wine. The bottle I wrote up was just such a wine. And I suspect that it is not only because of the tradition of oak being used less in Chablis but because, in this instance, Vincent Dauvissat knows what he is doing (as Bill implies). His experience and skill combine with the terroir to create the kind of chardonnay I prefer in almost every case.

That said, fine bottles from either area can be a treat and I seldom turn down at least a taste.
Best, Jim

James,
Rahsaan's comment only goes part way, IMO.
Many white Burgundys are oaky to my taste - in some, that component does exactly what you found; it transports the wine to CA - in others, it can add a spicy note and can soften the flavors. Very occasionally, I will have one that I would rather drink than good Chablis. Very occasionally.

For me, Chablis has a more lemon influenced nose and palate and, while it is all of the things Rahsaan notes, I find it also emphasizes the taste of the grape - and really well-made chardonnay can be as delightful as any wine. Yet even in doing so, it also delivers a sense of place that would be hard to mistake for its southern neighbor.
Further, I find that the best producers in Chablis, many of whom use some oak, have been able to get the fruit/oak balance right - such that the oak is all but unnoticeable in the wine. The bottle I wrote up was just such a wine. And I suspect that it is not only because of the tradition of oak being used less in Chablis but because, in this instance, Vincent Dauvissat knows what he is doing (as Bill implies). His experience and skill combine with the terroir to create the kind of chardonnay I prefer in almost every case.

That said, fine bottles from either area can be a treat and I seldom turn down at least a taste.
Best, Jim

Agreed.

As far as oak, I agree that Dauvissat does a wonderful job of balancing it with the wine, but would you agree that Dauvissat uses "more" oak than Raveneau? That was my impression from limited tastings of the latter, but didn't know how it applied generally.

As far as oak, I agree that Dauvissat does a wonderful job of balancing it with the wine, but would you agree that Dauvissat uses "more" oak than Raveneau? That was my impression from limited tastings of the latter, but didn't know how it applied generally.

I don't think its that simple.
I do think that each judges vintage, yields, vineyard, past track record, the process of each fermentation and any other factors they think relevant to decide "on the fly" what barrel regimen is appropriate. And, I would bet they refine that decision upon tasting from barrel.
Its like that wonderful cartoon of the student writing a formula on the balckboard and near the end are the words "the miracle happens here." The professor comments that perhaps he should be a bit more specific right about there.
I don't think either of these guys is ever going to get specific with us - but I think the miracle is still going to happen regularly.
Best, Jim

I don't think its that simple.
I do think that each judges vintage, yields, vineyard, past track record, the process of each fermentation and any other factors they think relevant to decide "on the fly" what barrel regimen is appropriate...I don't think either of these guys is ever going to get specific with us - but I think the miracle is still going to happen regularly.
Best, Jim

Sounds good to me.

Dauvissat is God.

There's more than one in Chablis. Vincent and his daddy René get my vote for divinity, but Jean is sadly mortal.

Mark Lipton

[James Roscoe]

Thank you for the education. I will need to drink more Chablis in the future.