Last June there was a discussion on another forum about 2005 Bordeaux prices. My friend Matt posted some incredible opening prices on some First Growths, and our English buddy Ian felt they couldn't maintain, with a bold prediction of a big drop in one year. I felt the prices were high, but doubted bubble burst within a year. Ian and I entered into a bet - if 3 selected 1sts (Mouton, Latour, and Margaux) dropped 20% in one year, Ian won. If they increased 10% or more, I won. In between, no winner. Prize was to be a mature Bdx worth $150+. Well, the Mouton was a dog, but Margaux appreciated nicely, and Latour soared. It came in at 11%.
Ian was a good sport about his narrow loss, but it seemed silly to exchange a bottle. So instead we agreed that Ian would contribute a First Growth, and myself, Matt, and Arv (who was designated judge) bring other wines from same vintage to a dinner. So last night we met at Vice Versa in Manhattan. Arv's wife Jen joined us, as did our friend David who was in US for a big Zachys auction he helped set up (he said prices were very strong Friday).
Food was pretty good, though place was very loud. I had a half order of strozzapreti ( ''Strangled Priest'' pasta) with duck ragu, and suckling pig with grilled endive. There wasn't a dog in the bunch of wines:
1992 Potinet-Ampeau "Perrieres" Meursault 1er
So at first pour this was almost clear, with light butterscotch over pear fruit. But in literally a minute colored had darkened considerably, and some nutty oxidative notes entered. Quite drinkable, but I felt it was dying in glass. But the funny thing was after the oxidative notes started, it kind of hung in stasis for a couple hours. A couple sips with the cheese plate were about the same as those 5 minutes after pouring. Pear, spice, mineral, hazelnuts; too thin to really be taken for a 1er, but ok. B/B-
1989 Certan de May (Pomerol)
I had decided to double-decant this before getting on train. And good thing- corked to the max. Luckily I had one more bottle, and decanted it (though it didn't have time to stand first). Very sweet black plum fruit, a hint of mocha. There's just a touch of barnyard after a while, not intrusive. Smooth, although maybe a little less lush texturally than a true top Pomerol, I still found this quite enjoyable, and mourn the corked bottle. Holds up well over 2 hours. A-/B+
1975 Le Gay (Pomerol)
A little bretty, high acids, noticable tannins. David says this is "very 1975" and I can see what he means. Broad-shouldered, brawny, top especially long. I don't like as much as a recent '75 L'Evangile, but still a good showing. Pomerols have generally been my favorite '75s. B
1989 Beychevelle (St Julien)
I'm not usually a big Beychevelle fan, but I like this a lot. Good acidity, resolved tannins, redder fruit than other wines this night. Lots of herbs and cedar, maybe most "a pointe" wine of evening. A-
1989 Grand Puy Lacoste (Pauillac)
Softer than expected, seemingly pretty mature, plum and blackberry fruit, low acid, light tannins. B+
1989 Lynch Bages (Pauillac)
I've always liked this wine, but this is one of the better showings. A very Mouton-esque exoticism, lush, spicy black fruits, lots of coffee aromas. Entering plateau, but plenty of structure. A-
1989 Lafite Rothschild (Pauillac)
Young and trying to burst out, a thoroughbred straining at the leads Lovely rich and dense fruit, just developing its secondary aromas, but clean cedar/lead pencil and some earth. This needs time, but classic Lafite -elegant yet powerful. A
1988 Henschke Mount Edelstone
I think I don't have any Australians cellared outside some Penfolds 389s from the 90s, but it's wines like this (as well as some Yarra Yerring, Parker Estates, etc ) that make me realize that's a mistake. Rich and ripe, yet with structure and backbone, and some elegance to boot. Nothing over the top here, sweet but not the least bit candied. Lovely wine. A-
Fun evening with a nice crew. Timing was perfect- I strolled up 9th Ave on a lovely fall evening and got to Lincoln Center as Betsy came out. Thanks to Ian for his good sportsmanship, and to all for their great wine contributions.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency