These are notes from a recent day of poker and wine drinking. All of the wines were served double blind. Since I got knocked out so early, I had more time than usual to formulate some guesses on the identities of the wines. I think my reasoning on many of them was pretty sound for a change! I was proud of myself. Still, there were a few notable gaffes, but that is to be expected, right?!
2003 Domaine de Fondreche Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee Persia. The bouquet is quite faint at first and needs some air to be coaxed out of the glass. It then grudgingly reveals some notes of plum, soft sandalwood, framboise and bike tire. It is softly-textured on the attack, but some acidity comes in to lift the tangy cherry fruit in the mid-palate. The acidity seems to clamp down roughly on the finish, which is quite drying with crisp, rugged tannins. There is some good drive, but also too much alcoholic heat for me to really enjoy it right now. My guess: A value-oriented Syrah. I heard a few others guessing Cotes du Rhone, but I didn’t listen…
2003 Domaine de la Mordoree Lirac Cuvee de La Reine des Bois. The nose on wine #2 is cooler-fruited, with mineral, dried herbs and white pepper accents. It is peppery and a bit spicy and oaky in the mouth, with a blue and black fruit orientation. It feels higher in acidity than the first wine, but handles it better, resulting in a fine, tight twang of juicy fruit. The finish is nicer here and shows pretty good length, but again I sense a bit of alcohol bite. I think this could use some short-term cellaring to broaden out and come together better. It may also be better served at a lower temperature. My guess: A French Syrah VdP—perhaps Languedoc. When this was revealed, I was very surprised, as I have enjoyed Lirac from this producer in the past much more than I did this particular bottle. I’d be very curious to read others’ views on this bottle.
1996 Domaine Anne Gros Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau. Now, we are clearly moving on to Pinot Noir. This wine has a very perfumed nose of violets, sweet red berries and dark cherries. Later, with more air, it turns a bit darker. It has a very cool feeling in the mouth, with crisp blueberry, blackberry and rhubarb fruit, and a mouthwatering degree of citrusy acidity. It is moderately big-boned, and seems more bracing than flashy, with a streak of redder tart fruit flashing in once in a while in the mid-palate. It is unusual in this way, and keeps the drinker interested. It does, however, turn a bit sour toward the finish, which while long, seems to squinch up a bit and show some hard-edged tannins. I would give this a few more years in the cellar. My guess: Either a moderately young Cote de Beaune or a Pinot from somewhere like Mendocino.
2002 Dominique Laurent Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Vielles Vignes. This wine has a more enticing nose than the previous Pinot, veering more toward sandalwood, spiced mixed berry pie and a hint of soft toasted herbs. In the mouth, there are lots of fine-grained tannins. Otherwise, it is nicely-textured, mid- to full-bodied for a pinot noir, showing good vibrancy, and yet possessing some sense of airiness. Flavors of blueberry fruit, chalk and earthiness lead to a solid, clean finish. In my opinion, this is drinking quite well at the moment. My guess: 2004 California Pinot, despite others around me shaking their heads at my stupidity in not sensing this was clearly Burgundian.
1998 E Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape. There is a nice bouquet here of sweet caramel apple, purple flowers, candied red fruit and gentle sous bois. It has solid intensity and vivid drive, a nice spiciness to go with a lively mouthfeel, and there are no hard edges to be found. The zippy finish carries along some soft powdered chocolate and faint alcoholic warmth. My guess: I was a bit stumped and just wrote down Burgundy. In hindsight and reading back over my note now, I should have thought of Grenache.
2000 Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape. Some said this opened with faint barnyard aromas that blew off quickly. By the time I tried it, it was showing scents of deep, dark roasted espresso, rich chocolate, and creamy raspberry mousse. Later on, some stemmy, herbal notes make a case, too. It is dark and chocolaty in the mouth with a strong earthy streak and a big dollop of acidity. Still, it is rounded in the mouth with medium body and some fresh cherry and red berry fruit. Abundant, soft, chalky tannins stick to the teeth on the finish. My guess: Cooler-climate CA Syrah.
2001 Murrieta's Well Meritage Livermore Valley. Now, for something completely different! Here we have a hugely rich nose of raspberry coulee, cassis, fudge, tar oil, toasty spices and dried cedar planks. It is velvety-textured and relatively seamless in the mouth, with a very good all-around mouthfeel. There are definitely soft, plush tannins, but they feel well-integrated here. There is a good amount of extraction with this wine, and despite being bigger-bodied, it seems to go gently on the senses—not trying to overpower too much. Nicely done. My guess: 1997 California Cab/Merlot meritage blend. Ha, not too bad, but I never would have guessed Livermore Valley!
1997 Clos Pegase Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley. This wine offers up a big sweet nose of warm roasted red fruits, soft earth, sous bois, worn leather and roasting coffee beans. It has a solid concentration of cassis, currant, and mixed berry fruits to go along with a soft hint of earthier notes. It is bright and tangy, with warm red fruits on the long, balanced finish. This is just a very pleasant, nice wine drinking quite well right now. My guess: At first, I was going with ’03 Chateauneuf, but then later shifted over to something right bank Bordeaux. Mike Coutu’s suggestion of a Cali Cab (Heitz?) was much closer to the mark—I should have listened.
2000 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie. Black pepper, minerals, black raspberries, leather, stems, soft spices and horse hair all make my list of aromas found on the nose of this bottle. In the mouth, it is black-fruited, yet inviting due to its fine juiciness. One can sense a solid structure here, with medium body, pleasant acidity levels and overall fine balance. It finishes clean, with dark cherry flavors and very fine tannins that still manage to stain the teeth. An excellent, fresh and balanced effort here. No real guess written down for some reason.
1998 E Guigal Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde. The nose is meaty and plummy, with notes of roasted herbs, rubber, forest greens and a big whiff of cracked peppercorns. It is black-fruited and medium-bodied in the mouth, with a strong streak of acidity and a rather dry palate feeling. Fine tannins emerge on the black currant and herb-tinged finish. My guess: ’95 Northern Rhone. In the back of my head, I was thinking that this reminded me of a recent bottle of ’95 Guigal Brune et Blonde—not far off at all!
1997 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle. Clear ruby color. The warm, red-fruited nose is pure and penetrating, featuring red currants and fresh raspberries to go along with some smoke, herbs and black pepper accents. It again offers a sense of purity in the mouth, with high-toned cherry and raspberry fruit, with surprisingly little in the way of tannins. It is not especially deep or exotic, but instead focused on the elegance and silkiness of the sweet red fruit. My guess: I saw the label before I could formulate a guess. Still, I would not have pegged this to be as young as it is, nor would I have ever been able to peg it as an Hermitage.
1997 M Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers. On the nose, there are some meaty aromas to go along with sweet raspberries, rhubarb and confectionary notes. It is generous in the mouth, again veering toward pure red fruits draped over a nice structure. Exhibiting plenty of body, it has good length and excellent drive from beginning to end. Definitely one of the better Crozes I can remember drinking, and could benefit from a few more years in the cellar.
I am looking forward to getting myself back on track at the poker table next time.
-Michael