WTN Dry Tokaji: Szepsy Tokaji Furmint 'Szent Tamas' 2005

Szepsy is maybe the finest producer in Tokaji for sweet wines, but I've certainly never had a better dry Tokaji than this. Often overlooked in the non Aszu category, Furmint is one fascinating grape when done in this style. Yellow apple, lemon zest, white peach, toffee and peanut brittle flavors, subtle perfume and imprisoned volcanic minerality, sweat and white pepper. It has enough form, focus, and crunch to put better Beaune whites to shame - this is an extraordinary wine. The purity and delicacy of the wine are most apparent but there is some underlying power and muscle-tone leading me to believe there is room for cellaring. Good luck finding it, but if you do: BUY! 13,0% alc. $45 (750ml)

The purity and delicacy of the wine are most apparent but there is some underlying power and muscle-tone leading me to believe there is room for cellaring.

If my most recent bottle of Szamorodny (TN is here) is anything to go by, it seems like it will cellar well. The 1990 showed no signs of fading at all despite being several hours open. I love the style, and would really hope to see more of it. Is it so popular in Hungary that little is left for export?

That does sound like a great wine, Bill, but also keep in mind Heidi Schröck's very fine Furmint from Rust in Austria.

Mark Lipton