WTN: 2005 Môreson Pinotage (Coastal Region, SA)

14.5% alc./vol. Very deep saturation; mulberry-garnet hue; translucent at the core. Aromatically reticent at first, it seems quite "cleaned up" and modernized in style. With about 15 minutes of aeration, however, the classic Pinotage aromas begin to emerge - smoked meat, leather, banana, stawberry and just the faintest pleasant whiff of VA; it's all enveloped by spicy oak in reasonable measure. On the palate, the wine is very firm and tight, tough and grippy, warm and even a bit sweetish. The high alcohol doesn't translate into any untoward heat, though, and thankfully there's no burning on the palate. Very tannic and well structured; smoky Lapsang-Souchong-tea on the mid-palate which gives way to quality oak spice on the finish. This Pinotage is not as dour and austere as my true favourites were, but it is a good drop nonetheless. $18.95 at Vintages.