Poulsard, etc.

I have to say I generally agree with Dale about Poulsard, but then I tried this Puffeney...

• 1997 Alain Voge Cornas Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (9/19/2007)
  Pretty disappointing. It have been mildly corked -- certainly not much, but the aromas and flavors were duller than they should have been. Conceivably it was still shut down, though that seems odd to me. It was tight and sour, not giving much at all, right out of the gate. It seemed to have something going on after an hour or so in the decanter, but only a glimmer. The fruit still seemed bright and fresh as far as I could tell.
• 2001 Mathern Niederhäuser Rosenberg Riesling Auslese - Germany, Nahe (9/17/2007)
  've seen a number of less than thrilling notes on this, so I pulled one. At the very least it's got a great name. I can't say it changed my life, but it was quite good and satisfied a vinous craving for tropical fruits and citrus peel. Seems hardly to have budged. I didn't have it on release, but it's still quite sweet and fleshy and not showing any cut or structure.
• 1995 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/14/2007)
  This bottle, hand-carried home, is on the early side of ready-to-go. Deep back fruits and (relatively speaking) clean earthy undertones, with those Provencal spices.
• 2003 Cappellano Nebbiolo d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba (9/14/2007)
  Wow, what a beautiful wine! I normally don't buy basic Nebbiolo or Bourgogne on the theory that I'd rather have the best version of a more marginal vineyard that someone's cash-flow wine. It would be a huge mistake to miss this one, though: pristine, pure, fresh red fruits, some earth and spicy overtones. Great now, I have no doubt this will develop for awhile.
• 2003 Jacques Puffeney Poulsard Arbois "M" - France, Jura, Arbois (9/14/2007)
  Shockingly good. With Poulsard in 2003 -- and I gather caught unprepared to pick on time -- he turned in just a terrific wine. Perfectly clean without the remotest hint of slick, it's all about delicate red fruits and bright acidity.

[*]1995 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/14/2007)
This bottle, hand-carried home, is on the early side of ready-to-go. Deep back fruits and (relatively speaking) clean earthy undertones, with those Provencal spices.

I'm not at all surprised by this. I haven't yet dared open any of my '95s, as they've been backward wines since release. From the tenor of recent notes, I'll probably start dipping into my stash of '98s before I get to my '95s, but I've still got wines from '89, '90 and '94 to deal with, too. Oh, life is so tough for a devoted winegeek...

Mark Lipton

Indeed, I have a few 89's and the odd 93, 94 in addition to 95 and the 98-01 run. The 95 has been particularly stubborn but finally seems to be coming around.

Actually my comments on Poulsard were specific to the Overnoy version (especially the 2002). Everyone (well, every geek) seems to love it. I don't dislike it at all, a servicable drink, but just can't get excited over it. This sounds worth trying.

Thanks for datapoint on '95 Beau.

Much as I like Overnoy, I have to agree with you about his Poulsard -- and some others in the sans-souffre movement. No matter how hard they work, I don't think they can avoid bacterial problems that end up marring their wines.

p.s. Did you try the '93 when it came to town a few years ago. Now that had some serious stink.

On the 2002 Overnoy, the bottles I've tried have been very variable. Some very bretty, some just a hint of funk which is appealing, and even some clean ones. The highs are worth it for me.

Cliff, I very much enjoyed your notes. I have some of 04 Puffeney Trousseau ordered that I'm looking forward to trying. I'll look for the Arbois M too.

Marc

Hi Marc,

Thanks!

The 2004 Trousseau is fantastic -- one of the best wines I've had all year. I hope you like them as much as I do.

Best,
Cliff

Actually my comments on Poulsard were specific to the Overnoy version (especially the 2002). Everyone (well, every geek) seems to love it. I don't dislike it at all, a servicable drink, but just can't get excited over it. This sounds worth trying..

Definite bottle variation.

I had a few bottles in the past that were difficult and seemed a bit unstable, but somehow the bottle Blackwood lugged across the country showed phemonally this Sunday and really was the inspirational juice FL Jim keeps going on about. It was also served slightly cool, which helps.