WTN /Wine Advisor: the other verdicchio

[Robin Garr]

The <i>other</i> Verdicchio

After the wicker-wrapped bottle of rough, hearty Chianti, the classic green "fish bottle" has to be one of the most vivid symbols of the old-style Italian wines from back in the days before Italian wines got much respect.

The modern rise of higher-end Chianti, not to mention Brunello, Vino Nobile and sought-after "Super Tuscans" has all but eliminated all memory of the old wicker-sheathed <i>fiasco</i>. But it's still easy enough to find Verdicchio dei Castelli di Iesi in a collectible green bottle shaped like a fish, with scales, fins and all.

Still, just as better Chianti eventually rehabilitated Tuscany's reputation as a source of world-class wine, the much less familiar Verdicchio di Matelica (which comes in a standard wine bottle that doesn't at all resemble a fish) may eventually do the same for Le Marche, a much less well-known region on the Adriatic coast in Central Italy.

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Iesi comes from Le Marche's coastal regions; Verdicchio di Matelica comes from hill country up on the slopes of the Apennines, where Le Marche meets Umbria on Italy's "spine."

In one of those odd coincidences similar to the one about learning a new word and then hearing it two more times, I've encountered a couple of excellent bottles Verdicchio di Matelica in the past few days. Last week I was thoroughly impressed with a young, fresh <b>Accattoli 2006 Verdicchio di Matelica</b> from importer John Given; a couple of days later, I found a <b>Bisci 2003 Verdicchio de Matelica</b> in a slightly dusty bottle in a local wine shop. I'm counting on the rule of coincidences to turn up Matelica No. 3 any time now.

Although the Bisci is three years behind the current vintage, it has kept very well and was evolved and deliciously rich. It's easy to see why the traditional match for Matelica is the artery-clogging <I>vincisgrassi</I>, a hearty Marche lasagna stuffed with prosciutto, sweetbreads, chicken livers, wild mushrooms and a Vin Santo-scented bechamel.

<table border="0" align="right" width="125"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/bisc0917.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Bisci 2003 Verdicchio de Matelica ($12.99)

Clear straw with a distinct golden hue. Slightly evolved, rich and complex, almonds and hazelnuts and hints of beeswax over crisp white fruit in the aroma and flavor. Mouth-watering acidity provides structure, with almonds and fresh citrus in a long finish; the overheated vintage of 2003 is manifest in a hefty 14% alcohol, but it doesn't show on the palate. Excellent wine. U.S. importer: Vintner Select, Mason, Ohio; from Marc de Grazia. (Sept. 17, 2007)

<B>FOOD MATCH:</b> Made for rich pasta dishes or full-flavored seafood, it was a natural with fettuccine with white clam sauce.

<B>VALUE:</B> An excellent value at this price point.

<B>WHEN TO DRINK:</B> In very good shape and perhaps gaining a little richness at four years past the vintage; I wouldn't hesitate to keep it for a few years more. Note also that this is older stock - the 2004 and 2005 bottlings are already on the international market and the 2006 is on its way.

<B>WEB LINK:</B> Marc de Grazia's Website is published in Italian and English. Here's a direct link to the English-language page about Bisci, with links to specific wines including several vintages of Verdicchio di Matelica:
[url=http://www.marcdegrazia.com/mdg/ing/scheda_produ.jsp?KProduttori=6&lingua=ING]http://www.marcdegrazia.com/
mdg/ing/scheda_produ.jsp?KProduttori=6&lingua=ING[/url]

<B>FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:</B>
Check prices and find vendors for Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica on Wine-Searcher.com:
[url=http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Bisci%2bVerdicchio/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP]http://www.wine-searcher.com/
find/Bisci%2bVerdicchio/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP[/url]

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Nice posting on a grape varietal most of us just pass by. Will keep my eyes open as I wander around some stores this afternoon!

[Robin Garr]

Nice posting on a grape varietal most of us just pass by. Will keep my eyes open as I wander around some stores this afternoon!

Just avoid the fish bottle, Bob, and you'll be okay! Look for the Verdicchio di Matelica if you can, but be aware that it's much less available - not as much produced - as the Castelli di Iesi.

Thanks for the note, Robin -- I've passed this wines by without another thought, based primarily on a miserable glass of the stuff tasted in Venice years ago -- "tasted" exactly the right word -- the canals gained a bit of moisture after the first sip.

Your note led me to consult Robinson's OCW3 and I found a fascinating history. I'm going to put together a mini comparative tasting of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica, hopefully younger versions of each together with two bottles with a bit of age on them.

Thanks again. Bob

Short extract:

Verdicchio is one of central Italy‚s classic white wines, and is produced from the Verdicchio grape in two doc zones of its home territory (since at least the 14th century) of the Marche: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, to the west of Ancona and a mere 30 km/20 miles from the Adriatic sea, and Verdicchio di Matelica, considerably further inland and at higher altitudes, close to the regional border with umbria. The wines share common characteristics, although the Verdicchio di Matelica, with lower yields (13 tonnes/ha against the 14 tonnes permitted for Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi) and better exposed hillside vineyards, can be a fuller, more characterful wine. Matelica‚s 300-odd ha (750 acres) are dwarfed, however, by the more than 3,150 ha of the Castelli di Jesi. This latter DOC is divided into a classico zone, with over 90 per cent of the total vineyard area, and a zone of regular Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi with a mere 270 ha.

Sounds like a good idea there Bob R. Maybe we should think of an Open Mike so others can join in?

There are lots of choices on Wine Searcher Pro, Bob -- give folks a bit of time to shop though -- I'm game.

I love the wine from Matelica, and I drink a lot of the one I import (Colle Stefano). There is a noticeable minerality in the Matelica version that isn't apparent in the wines from Jesi, in my experience.

Verdicchio is now known to be the same as Trebbiano di Soave/Lugana, which makes sense; the best wines from Lugana seem to me one of the most under-appreciated whites from northern Italy.

[Robin Garr]

Verdicchio is now known to be the same as Trebbiano di Soave/Lugana, which makes sense; the best wines from Lugana seem to me one of the most under-appreciated whites from northern Italy.

Whoa, there's news. That finding got by me entirely, Oliver. Will that affect the DOC reg requiring 85 percent Verdicchio, 15 percent Trebbiano di Soave or Malvasia?

Robinson confirms Oliver's comment Robin:

"The Verdicchio grape is also present in northern Italy, where it is known as Trebbiano di Soave, the superior variety that adds perfume to the steely Garganega in Soave. Further to the west, it is known as the Trebbiano di Lugana, where it is grown on its own in a warmer zone to give full-bodied wines of real interest."

Nothing about the blending rules that I can see.

Verdicchio is now known to be the same as Trebbiano di Soave/Lugana, which makes sense; the best wines from Lugana seem to me one of the most under-appreciated whites from northern Italy.

Whoa, there's news. That finding got by me entirely, Oliver. Will that affect the DOC reg requiring 85 percent Verdicchio, 15 percent Trebbiano di Soave or Malvasia?

Robin,

Did you mean 85% Garganega in Soave? I'm lost.

I remember a quality producer of Soave once telling me that the Trebbiano di Soave was very important, even though a minority.

[Robin Garr]

Did you mean 85% Garganega in Soave? I'm lost.

Sorry, I thought I was clear. I was talking about 85 percent Verdicchio in both Verdicchio dei Castelli di Iesi and in Verdicchio di Metalica. If I remember correctly, both DOCs require 85 percent Verdicchio and 15 percent of either Trebbiano or Malvasia or a combination. If Verdicchio has been formally declared identical to Trebbiano di Lugana, then this would complicate the requirement, it seems to me. Particularly if the other 15 percent allows Trebbiano Toscana, as I think it does.

One also wonders how deeply the Verdicchio producers are wedded to their historic name. They might resist losing the local name even to the "good" Trebbiano, I would think.

Robin,

I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't know about the permitted use of Trebbiano Toscano or Malvasia in Verdicchio, perhaps because both of my producers (I used to import Brunori, an excellent producer of Iesi) use only Verdicchio. Most quality appellations in Italy AFAIK have a 100% varietal rule. Trebbiano Toscano is generally pretty mediocre, and I think the Malvasia that was used in Chianti in the old days is not much better; I imagine that part of the DOC is a sop to the larger producers.

The word Trebbiano is confusing here, as far as I know there is no connection between the two varieties. So it shouldn't make any difference to the DOC rule.

It is rather well-known that verdicchio was Michelangelo's favorite wine. Although it may be hard to argue with the greatest artist of all time, Michelangelo obviously never tried MSR or 'gau riesling. Personally I've had a few pleasant and well-priced verdicchios, but nothing mind-blowing. Italian white wine should be kept to Friuli and Alto-Adige IMNSHO.

Bill,

I am sorry you aren't around here, I'd give you a bottle of the Matelica from Colle Stefano. The owner did his apprenticeship in Germany, and the wine has an almost Riesling level of minerality and zing. As Robin points out, at least 90% of what we see in the US is Iesi, and Matelica is very different.

I would put Campania near the top of white-wine-producing regions these days, too.

If we are going to have an open mike, the pickings around here are slim. The state only carries the Fazi Verdicchio Battaglia besides the fish. There are eight bottles in the state, but seven are nearby. Does anyone have any experience with the Fazi?

I'd pass.

Oliver wrote:

I love the wine from Matelica, and I drink a lot of the one I import (Colle Stefano)

I took a flyer on a case of this, purely on Oliver's word. It's delicious and less than $12.

I agree the Verdicchio di Matelica can de excellent. I discovered it thanks to a tip-off from Oliver before a short stay in Marche last autumn and particularly remember a deliciously crisp one from La Monacesca drunk with seafood with my feet almost in the Adriatic. I also brought back with me some Mirum Riserva 02 from la Monacesca which was richer and more ambitious but so delicious that the bottles disappeared quickly.

Additionally, I drank some V. dei Castelli di Jesi, from Bucci and Umani Ronchi out of normal burgundian shaped bottles, which were equally excellent in a slightly softer and more ingratiating style.

I think that both Verdicchios deserve much more esteem and I would drink more if I did not have to do a 200km round trip to get to the best importers.

Tim,

with the EU, can't you just get a case shipped from the producer? I can give you Colle Stefano's contact info, if you want.

Best,

Oliver

Oliver,

Thanks for that; yes, I would like Colle Stefano's contact information.

Shipping from another EU country is perfectly feasible and not a felony either for the shipper or shippee! The only issue is cost; I paid EUR 29 to ship a dozen from the Ruwer valley and that is about 2 hours drive away. I was quoted £ 110 (EUR 145) to ship a dozen from the UK!

Still, I guess the ex-cellar price is a lot lower than what I would pay in Liege or Diepenbeek (fuel cost about 20 EUR plus wear and tear on car and self), so that may offset the difference in freight.

Let's see.

All the best,

Tim

Tim,

Fabio Marchionni, info@collestefano.com, cell 347 3668345. I don't know if he speaks any English, let me know if I can help.

oliver@omwines.com