NWR: For Paul B. - wild labrusca tasting notes

This isn't wine-related, but it's native American grape-related.

Here in Southern New Hampshire, this seems to have been a banner year for fruit-set in the wild grape vines. On recent forest ramblings, I've noticed ripe grapes on at least two wild vine species, one of which I've definitely identified as Vitis labrusca. The grapes are rather large, held in sparse clusters, and have that distinct "Concord grape" aroma. The skins are tannic and tart. There is a burst of exquisite sweet and flavorful juice just below the skin. Most of the body of the fruit is taken up by the placenta surrounding the grape seeds themselves (which are VERY tannic and astringent if you bite into them). The placenta is sweetish, but very tough and chewy. This is something you don't encounter in cultivated/domesticated grapes. Maybe I picked these too early (although they were somewhat shriveled in the early September heat), but I think rather that this is an adaptation of the wild grape. The bit of juice just under the skin is delightful, and I'd be content to pick the whole lot just to enjoy that bit, and to spit out the skins and the tough placenta and seeds. I made it a point to spit them out where I thought the seeds might have a good chance of growing into new vines.

The second species I haven't identified yet (I need to remember to bring my field guide to trees and shrubs with me next time). It has smaller fruit that is much more tart. Suitable for grape tarts or a grape pie, perhaps.

These are very much like wild raspberries and blackberries--more flavorful but more seedy than the domesticated varieties. Very delightful, though.

-Paul W.

Hi Paul - I had the pleasure of bringing a wine made by a friend from local wild grapes to MOCOOL '06. Here is part of my post:

...Also after dinner, I opened the “Mystery Wine” I brought with me. This was Vitis Riparia - deep blueish-red color. Smells kind of like Foch – no labrusca characteristics. Sweet, but with enough acid for balance. Good finish with berry flavors. This was a wine made by a friend, John Czyrny, from wild grapes he found growing on an island in the Niagara River while perch fishing...

I would suspect that the smaller grapes ran across are also Vitis Riparia, which is the native American species usually crossed to make hybrids, as it does not have those typical labrusca characteristics.

Thanks for the delightful post, Paul. For all my love of native vines, I honestly don't think I've ever come across a wild labrusca one here in my neck of the woods, though we sure do have lots of riparia grapevines climbing here and there.

Concord, for example, shows much of its labrusca ancestry in that the way you describe the grapes you found almost reads like a perfect description for it. In fact, I am currently trying to secure a source for my annual homemade wine. I will probably make a batch of both Concord and Niagara, since this was a fine year and in such years I prefer not to lose out on the opportunity to work with some well ripened fruit.

This is not wild, but it is native-derived: I have two scuppernong grape vines (bronze muscadines). I have managed to rescue a couple of gallons of the grapes from the critters in my Tulsa backyard, and while I would like to make wine, I have no idea where to begin, or if this is even enough grapes to do it with. They are currently in the fridge, and I guess will be turned into jelly.

An update:

We had rain over the past weekend, followed by a couple of days of sun, and that's plumped up the wild grapes considerably. The other vine species is definitely riparia. There's a big riparia vine climbing some trees whose grapes are being feasted on by birds (especially robins). I enjoyed grapes from some of the lower clusters. Very tasty, not as tart as they were last week (I guess I got them too early). The grapes lack the "foxy" character of the labrusca grapes, and the placenta surrounding the seeds is sweeter and not as tough. Berries are only about half the size and not as juicy, though. At the rate the birds are attacking the vine, the grapes probably will be gone in a day or two.

-Paul W.

Just an aside here to catch Paul B`s attention.........Hey Paul B, new vintage of the Quails Gate Old Vines Foch has hit the shelves here with new look label. $27 Cdn.

Thanks guys!

And as an aside to Bob's aside - I do think that the price is mighty high for that Quails' Gate OVF! I remember with fondness when Malivoire released its excellent '98 OVF and it cost all of $18.95. But thanks for the heads-up nonetheless.