I’m finally getting around to typing up my wine tasting notes from a fun afternoon and evening we spent by the pool with Mike and Carla Lawton, Greg and Kathy Mitrakas, and our collection of 6 young kids back in August.
Somewhere toward the end of the evening, Mike suggested that I title any notes I published from the evening “There’s an Ass for Every Seat”. At the time, I totally thought that was a great idea, but at this point, I can not for the life of me remember what we were talking about! In any event, it probably had something to do with the array of wines we had on the table, but it might have been something else entirely!
We started off with Kathy’s amazing Riesling Sangria—which was simply perfect and far too chug-able! It was then on to the wines.
2005 Paolo Bea Santa Chiara Vino da Tavola Bianco. This is a blend of Grechetto, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Garganega. It is deep honey-gold in color. The nose offers up honey, grapefruit, rose water and other floral notes in an interesting and pleasant mélange. There is no hint of wood at all. In the mouth, it is luscious and juicy with good weight and an excellent bottom bass note that carries along honey, citrus and spice flavors. There is a nice acid tingle to the fresh, clean finish. A very interesting wine that I would recommend.
1996 Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Grand Cru Saering. This Riesling has a very enjoyable bouquet that at various times conjures up aromas of peach pit, nectarine, crème brulee, wet stones, gravel, lemon zest and orange blossom. It has a deep, beautiful core of apple and pear fruit and some tangy citrus flavor. There is bright acidity in play and a very long finish. This should go for quite a while—very nice.
1996 Robert Sinskey Vineyards Chardonnay Los Carneros. This was left over from opening the previous day. On the nose, there is lots of campfire smoke to go with notes of graphite, pear skin and lemon rind aromas. For whatever reason, it struck me as similar to mid-90’s Chalk Hill Chardonnays drunk upon release. In the mouth, it is tightly focused, yet able to come across as giving in nature. There is a solid, dense richness that accompanies woodsy, smoky tree fruits. There is good drive and intensity—not a wimpy Chardonnay by any stretch.
2001 Christophe Pichon Condrieu. This offers up soaring aromatics of rose water, flower petals, concentrated orange blossom, citrus peel and something like a hint of white pepper. There also seems to be a shot of soft oak, as well. In the mouth, it is fairly creamy-textured and seamless, yet still feels a bit restrained, perhaps holding something back. It does open a little with time and air, and especially on Day 2, when my wife tried it for the first time and went moderately ga-ga over it. Too bad I’d probably have to travel abroad to buy her any.
1998 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Brich Ronchi. This was a bit of a disappointment. It is somewhat advanced in color. The nose is finely perfumed, with soft incense, warm spice cake, caramel, black raspberry, currant and coffee aromas wafting in and out. In the mouth, though, it is a bit boxy and unsure of its footing. It is silky-textured, does expand to fill the mouth nicely, offers fine tannins, and displays decent length, but otherwise it is moderately non-descript in flavor profile or excitement level at this point in its evolution. Perhaps this was opened too young or not given a long enough decant, but I would recommend holding for a bit longer before checking in again.
1996 Elio Altare Barolo. My notes on the bouquet only cite tar oil and raspberry, but I do recall that this wine has a very pleasant inner-mouth bouquet, as well. It has medium body and a silky soft texture, with good acidity present. Tannins do come in on the spicy finish and pinch the edges of the tongue. On day 2, this opened up some more and made for very nice drinking.
2005 Herve Souhaut Syrah Vin de Pays de l’Ardeche. At first, this is like a noseful of peppercorns. I mean it opens very peppery! However, that subsides and is augmented by a sense of deep yet reserved red berry fruits and dried meats. In the mouth, one notices a very nice structure and finely-defined texture. Also, it feels pure and natural. Tannins are a bit grainy at this point, but the finish is nicely fanned-out.
1999 Michel Ogier Syrah La Rosine Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes. When Mike and I first poured this into the decanter, it was serious Mr. Ed time. However, by the time we got around to drinking it, that had really toned down a lot. Instead, one finds a refined nose of bridle leather, clean horse barn and dark berry fruit. The fruit has a pleasant sweetness in the mouth and the whole package feels quite well-integrated, though there is substantial acidity that makes itself increasingly heard as time goes on. A nice blueberry-tinged finish puts a nice bow on this one.
1996 Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie. This has a very pretty nose of white violets, dark cherry, tar, incense, and some high-toned blackberries. It is finely delineated in the mouth with crisp acids, dark fruit, medium body, and very fine tannins that grow with time in the glass. Very nice drinking now, but can be held for a good while.
1976 Hans Lang Rulander & Ehrenfelser Trockenbeerenauslese Hattenheimer Hassel Rheingau (AP #6). This wine was a real wild ride, and I liked it! First off, it is a dark brown caramel or cola syrup kind of color. On the nose, it offers up very strong citrus notes, caramel, burnt sugar and gingerbread. In the mouth, it is rather full, viscous and long, with all kinds of rich caramel, brown sugar, toffee, toasted walnut and bright citrus flavors. It is totally smooth and goes down oh-so-easy. A real fun wine. If nothing else, I can at least now add these 2 grapes to my life list…
1996 Chateau de la Genaiserie Coteaux du Layon Chaume SGN Les Tetueres. Changing gears, we find a bouquet here of sweet dried apricots, rich clover honey, white peaches, poached pears, cream and bright lime. On the palate, it offers crème brulee, lime, sweet fruit and botrytis in a solid and moderately intense package that is not too cloying or too heavy, yet leaves one with a feeling of a luxuriant spicy finish.
At this point, the kids were tired and ready for bed, and maybe the adults, too! It was a fun afternoon and one we hope to repeat next summer!
-Michael