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Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:14 am

For you white wine enthusiasts and fans of Viognier in general (count me in naturally), thought this would make an interesting study. I have recently seen some Viognier/P Gris blends from Australia as well as some Marsanne Rousanne Viognier releases.
Hoke thinks that a look at Chardonnay/Viognier might be a good idea so lets look around and see what is on the shelves. There are a few chard fans here, look at the recent Open Mike: Chardonnay thread. Then, of course, there are the white wine Rhone busters from California, so lots of choice.
Red wine drinking weather is almost here so maybe a last chance to crack a white, but who needs such an excuse!! If you want to think a Shiraz blend go ahead, we are pretty understanding.

edit: Gary Vaynechuk of Wine Library fame has a prog on Viognier blending.

http://tv.winelibrary.com/category/viognier
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:14 pm

WTN: `04 Quinta Generacion Casa Silva, Colchaqua Valley, Chile.

60% Chardonnay, 25% Sauvignon Gris, 15% Viognier. Half of the chard was 50% barrel fermented whilst other 2 varietals were fermented in stainless steel. Think we will be seeing more Casa Silva wines as local store-owner has just returned from the area! Some prices look tad high, this bottle was $31 Cdn (ouch). This wine was on the tasting bar along with 5 various reds.

The color was a medium straw, tad watery for some I might think? On the nose, I found it very very floral. Guava and over-ripe melon, had a touch of vanilla way in the background. Found it off-dry with nice tropical fruits. Tasty pear and apple and brief butterscotch hints. Found the wine flavors understated, but clean and refreshing. Big price for this "international"style white.

**on reflection, not quite sure where the sauvignon gris component was here?
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Sue Courtney » Tue Sep 04, 2007 4:10 pm

I tasted a cracker of a Chardonnay Viognier blend at Wine New Zealand (NZ's biggest wine trade show) yesterday. It's Gisborne fruit, made by a company called TW, they've called the wine CV and it's non vintage.
TW CV NV is 70% Chardonnay, 30% Viognier and has all the traits of a soft, rich, leesy unoaked chardonnay with a full bodied palate and melon the dominant fruit. The fragrance and prettiness of the viognier component comes through on the lightly spicy, apricot infused finish. It's all about softness, approachablity and all round friendliness. It's non-confrontational with lots of flavour and ready to drink. 14% alcohol. NZ$20. Just on the verge of release.

For me, this worked - and worked well.

Cheers,
Sue
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Hoke » Tue Sep 04, 2007 4:20 pm

Sue Courtney wrote:I tasted a cracker of a Chardonnay Viognier blend at Wine New Zealand (NZ's biggest wine trade show) yesterday. It's Gisborne fruit, made by a company called TW, they've called the wine CV and it's non vintage.
TW CV NV is 70% Chardonnay, 30% Viognier and has all the traits of a soft, rich, leesy unoaked chardonnay with a full bodied palate and melon the dominant fruit. The fragrance and prettiness of the viognier component comes through on the lightly spicy, apricot infused finish. It's all about softness, approachablity and all round friendliness. It's non-confrontational with lots of flavour and ready to drink. 14% alcohol. NZ$20. Just on the verge of release.

For me, this worked - and worked well.

Cheers,
Sue


Going off on somewhat of a tangent here, Sue, but when you mentioned the "soft, rich, leesy unoaked chardonnay with a full bodied palate and melon the dominat fruit", that caused me to reflect that there are at least two major types of unoaked or unwooded chardonnay: the one you described, and the more spicy, tangy, crisply austere and higher acid style. So people who are looking for unoaked chard may be a bit surprised or disconcerted when they come across one in a differing style.

My preference--but it's only a preference---is usually for the crisper style of chardonnay, not the leesy/umami style. And I think that style mixes well with Viognier, since the V adds softness and perfume.

Still, sounds like you were quite taken with the CV NV. If it ever makes it to these shores, I'll give it a go.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Sep 04, 2007 4:21 pm

Thanks Sue, looks like we are off to a good start here!!Trade shows can be fun and very educational, we have a Wines of Chile coming up here soon.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Sue Courtney » Tue Sep 04, 2007 4:46 pm

Hoke wrote:Going off on somewhat of a tangent here, Sue, but when you mentioned the "soft, rich, leesy unoaked chardonnay with a full bodied palate and melon the dominat fruit", that caused me to reflect that there are at least two major types of unoaked or unwooded chardonnay: the one you described, and the more spicy, tangy, crisply austere and higher acid style. So people who are looking for unoaked chard may be a bit surprised or disconcerted when they come across one in a differing style.

My preference--but it's only a preference---is usually for the crisper style of chardonnay, not the leesy/umami style. And I think that style mixes well with Viognier, since the V adds softness and perfume.

Still, sounds like you were quite taken with the CV NV. If it ever makes it to these shores, I'll give it a go.


May it was the Viognier adding the softness, rather than the Chardonnay - but I'm finding that the unoaked chardonnays gain complexity and palate richness from aging on yeast lees. Many of the 2006 vintage unoaked chards were better than the PG's from the vintage. But after tasting a whole heap of 2007 PG's the last three days, they are looking very good this year. I guess winemakers here are looking to express the chardonnay grape in the unoaked style with making it too acidic and crisp, as we get that in Riesling and SB. But I gather from the international feedback from some of the kiwi unoaked chards, that they style being produced is quite acceptable.
Anyway, the Viognier did well in expressing it perfume on the finish on the TW CV NV.
I hope to try this wine again in 3 or 4 weeks time - as it was 'just bottled' when tasted.
Cheers,
Sue
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Sue Courtney » Tue Sep 04, 2007 4:50 pm

I just googled 'chardonnay viognier' blend and seems there is a whole heap of them out there.
I even found that Villa Maria in NZ is making one too.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Carl Eppig » Tue Sep 04, 2007 5:16 pm

2004 Yalumba, Shiraz 93%-Viognier 7%, South Australia ($9.99 U.S.). This is not the Barossa bottling that costs $7 more and has been getting some good press lately, but a very nice jug of wine in itself. Alcohol level: 14%.

If 1% of something can noticeably alter the character of a wine a Dan Berger strongly suggests, then 7% can move mountains. The Viognier in it hits your nose like an express train along with a combo of red and black fruit that also visit the tongue tip. A wild complexity of fruit, spice, and silky savoury subtlety affect the palate, and the finish lingers and lingers.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Mark Willstatter » Tue Sep 04, 2007 5:26 pm

Reininger makes a Viognier/Chardonnay blend under its second label, Helix. The 2005 version was 60/40 in favor of Viognier but I understand the mix has varied with vintage. I can't honestly remember much about it and I didn't take notes but I apparently liked it well enough to come home from the winery with a bottle :) They're a little cute with the name, which is "Aspersa" - just try Googling "Helix Aspersa" and you'll see what I mean.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Ross » Tue Sep 04, 2007 6:46 pm

Bob, one of the many wines that I've tasted, but haven't yet researched and written up is the ampelos Syrah.

From their website:

Our 2004 Syrah is a dark, opulent wine which we truly believe is a positive result of our co-fermentation with Viognier. The Viognier grapes from the ampelos vineyard were added to the Syrah grapes from the Harrison-Clark vineyard and then vinified together as if they were 100% red grapes. There are two reasons to do this - the first is that blending Viognier with Syrah allows the aromatic, floral characteristics of Viognier to give additional dimensions to the Syrah. This could be done producing each wine separately and then blending Viognier wine into Syrah, but co-fermentation produces better integration. The second reason is "co-pigmentation" where colorless compounds from the white grapes actually enhance the color extracted from the red grapes. We are so pleased with the initial success of this co-fermentation that we interplanted Pinot Gris in the newest Pinot Noir blocks on the estate.

I was surprised to learn that this co-fermentation approach is relatively common, especially in the Northern Rhone; from the OCW3:

The technique has its origins in the Old World, mostly notable in the Côte Rôtie appellation in the northern Rhône. Here, the red variety Syrah is co-fermented with the white variety Viognier. Up to 20 per cent Viognier is permitted, but 5–10 per cent is more usual. This practice found increased favour in Australia and other parts of the New World from the early 2000s. Co-fermentation does not have to be a combination of red and white grapes—in the United States, for example, co-fermentation may originally have been a natural consequence of field blends such as Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. Another notable historical example is found in the Chianti region of Italy, where the primary red grape, Sangiovese, has traditionally been fermented with small amounts of the red variety Canaiolo Nero and the white varieties Trebbiano and Malvasia, although this practice is becoming less common.

Research by Dr Roger Boulton, Professor of Enology and Chemical Engineering at Davis, indicates that red varieties may contain low levels of co-factors (sometimes known confusingly co-pigments), which are said to aid co-pigmentation and thus the formation of deeper and more stable colour in red wines. The addition of a variety with higher levels of co-factors may aid co-pigmentation, and co-fermentation may originally have been adopted because it was seen to increase colour stability and intensity.

When Syrah, or Shiraz, and Viognier are co-fermented, there are many different techniques used to add the Viognier: whole fruit at the crusher; whole grapes, or pressed skins and grapes or just juice added to the crushed Shiraz must.

Differing harvest dates may put constraints on co-fermentation but these can be overcome by modern refrigeration techniques. Further research is needed to ascertain the best combinations of varieties and the best proportions. Too many white grapes might simply dilute the colour of a red wine.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Sep 04, 2007 8:52 pm

That is some really interesting info, Bob R, on co-fermentation. I did not know that this was a popular method. I always thought seperate and then blend at some stage. Perhaps the home winemakers will see this and comment from their prospective.

Looks like this Mike might be taking off eh!!! Maybe time for me to think of a new T-shirt/logo.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Sep 04, 2007 8:56 pm

Sue Courtney wrote:I just googled 'chardonnay viognier' blend and seems there is a whole heap of them out there.
I even found that Villa Maria in NZ is making one too.


Yeah, I too googled this morning and found many references! Scouted 3 stores for our blend but no luck. Hum, I did come away with a split of late-harvest Monastrell from Castano (of Hecula fame).
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Howie Hart » Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:15 pm

One other aspect of co-fermentation not mentioned, especially a white with a red, is the acidity of the different grapes. By blending in a high acid white with a low acid red, the hue of the wine will change from orangeish to purplish. And more deeper color may also be obtained as the acidity helps dissolve more of the pigments and stabilizes the color. I learned this first hand when I made blends of Vidal and Foch. On the old board this paradox was discussed at length in a thread and someone posted a link related to scientific studies of pH and hue. I'll try to dig it up and post a link. I was truly amazed one year when the 50/50 Foch-Vidal blend had deeper color than the 100% Foch from the same batch of grapes.
EDIT: I can't really comment on Viognier, as I've never had one, but one of these days...
Last edited by Howie Hart on Wed Sep 05, 2007 6:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Open Mike:100% Viognier.

by Rod Miller » Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:23 am

Viognier is king here in Amador. The Chards are nasty. Here is my invention to keep any white cold.

[img][img]http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/userpix/1001_winecooler2_3.jpg[/img]

The two best Viogniers I have had are the 06 Holly's Hill Viognier. It has a very flowery aroma characteristic of viognier. It has a nice acid structure. Mt. Aukum is similar, but not a s smooth. It definitely is better very cold. Cooper Vineyards if you can get it was great. The one in the glass is Renwood 05 Clos Rene Veata Ranch Vineyard Viognier. I have no idea where this vineyard is. It has a real citrusy acid and viognier floweryiness is muted. It was $24 at the winery.

[/list]
Last edited by Rod Miller on Wed Sep 05, 2007 11:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by MattThr » Wed Sep 05, 2007 5:36 am

[quote="Bob Ross"]I was surprised to learn that this co-fermentation approach is relatively common, especially in the Northern Rhone[/q]

I was given to understand that the practice of blending Viognier into Cote-Rotie was not widely spread, and that in practice most Cote-Rotie is 100% syrah.

I've never tasted one, but if you look at Marcel Guignals' famous Cote-Rotie wines most of them don't contain Viognier.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:11 pm

Matt, you raise a good point about Cote-Rotie. JLL new book on N Rhone might have some answers eh. The chapters are on-line and still free I believe...as least sections of them!
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Sep 08, 2007 6:42 pm

Sue Courtney wrote:I just googled 'chardonnay viognier' blend and seems there is a whole heap of them out there.
I even found that Villa Maria in NZ is making one too.


I spent quite some time earlier this week trying to find such a blend. All I found was one from Argentina! Plenty of M.V.R on the shelves.
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:46 am

WTN: `05 Chardonnay Viognier Reserve Finca la Celia, Uco Valley Arg.

Well known established winery, synthetic cork, 14% alc, $18 Cdn. This wine is a 60% chardonnay, 40% viognier blend.

Color. Medium yellow, no green or gold tints here.

Nose. Pineapple, peach, nice tropical fruit here. Some mineral elements too and found some apricot 2nd day.

Palate. Good varietal character and nice surprise/style. Nothing rustic about this one! Elegant mouthfeel and has some leesy creamyness. Apricot, peach, good acidity. There is a hint of mango on day 2, has held up well and has developed more viognier character? I quite liked this one.

It is still proving hard to find other similar blends. But I will shoulder on forumites!!
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Sep 18, 2007 2:41 pm

WTN: `05 M.V.R. Yering Station, Yarra Valley, Victoria.

Believe this was the first winery ever to establish in the state. SC, 14%alc, $28 Cdn.
54% Marsanne, 36% Viognier, 10% Rousanne.

Color. Medium straw color, no gold or yellow here.

Nose. With flu coming on tough to figure out. Quite floral,perfumed, has that hint of musk one might expect. Citrus tones on day 2, marzipan? Wow.

Palate. Good everyday Rhone-style blend. Could use a tad more structure I feel. Pear, apple, expected some oilyness here but not to be. Not much change overnight, some apricot.

So I did not gain much from this blend, maybe the reader can (if not under the weather!!).
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by ClarkDGigHbr » Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:04 am

When we visited Walla Walla in August 2006, we discovered Rulo Winery, south of town. They produce a white blend called Combine. I found some early references indicating it was a Chardonnay-Viognier blend. However, the 2005 vintage wine ($15) was a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (82%) and Viognier (18%). I really liked this wine and came home with some of it.

I recently purchased a bottle of McCrea Cellars Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Vin Rose' ($17). It is a blend of Viognier (64%) and Counoise (36%). How is that for unique?

-- Clark
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:44 am

Counoise? Had to do some googling on this one, learn something new every day here!

http://community.winepressnw.com/node/263
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Re: Open Mike: Blending with Viognier.

by ClarkDGigHbr » Wed Sep 19, 2007 1:26 am

Not to get too far off topic, I first encountered Counoise at the Tagaris Restaurant in Richland, WA as mentioned in the article at that link. I enjoyed a glass of it with our appetizer that night.

I also found it again this summer in another Rose', this time from Isenhower. He (Brett, the winemaker) made a small batch of it just for fun, blending 42% Counoise, 41% Mourvedre and 17% Grenache. It was his first attempt at making the pink stuff and it turned out to be a pretty lovely wine. Getting back on topic ... Isenhower Snapdragon is a white blend of Rousanne and Viognier. The 2005 blend was 55%-45%; the 2006 blend was 75%-25%. I really preferred the 2005 wine, but it could have been due to the fact that 2005 was a really good vintage in WA.

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A blend.. Roussanne and Viognier.. Curtis Winery

by James Dietz » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:20 pm

  • 2006 Curtis Heritage Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast (9/19/2007)

    A 50/50 blend of Vigonier and Roussanne, there is no RS. Rich florals on the nose and palate. Pear, peach and mineral vie for attention. A clean line of acidity makes this refreshing. At $12 for wine club members, this is a no-brainer. We drink lots of Rhone whites, and this is one of the better we have had from CA ... (92 pts.)

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