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WTN: 2005 Benton Lane Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc

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Isaac

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WTN: 2005 Benton Lane Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc

by Isaac » Sat Sep 01, 2007 11:33 pm

Pinot Blanc is the bastard step-child of Willamette Valley wines. The reds are uniformly Pinot Noir, and, from that one might think that the whites would be Chardonnay, as in Burgundy, but one would be wrong. Instead, the valley produces some of the world's best Pinot Gris (never Pinot Grigio - that name is not legal under Oregon law).

But a lot of Willamette Valley wineries also produce some Pinot Blanc. There is even an organization, Oregon Pinot Blanc, to advance the variety in the state. http://www.oregonpinotblanc.com/ http://www.allbusiness.com/retail-trade ... 188-1.html

The organization advocates using stainless steel or old barrels in order to accentuate the fruit flavors, and not "treating the variety as a pseudo Chardonnay." Well, Benton Lane might be guilty of that, if it is indeed an offense.

Understand, I'm not a member of the Anything But Chardonnay movement. I think that a rich, buttery Chardonnay is just as legitimate a treatment as any other. the only question in my mind is, is it done well?

This, of course, is not a Chardonnay. However, it sees some oak, and is not shy about it. Oak and vanillin are obviously present, if not prominent. To my palate, the fruit easily stands up to it, and it makes for a harmonious whole, nicely balanced and lovely to drink. The nose is delightful, with the scent of nearly ripe pears (and, my wife says, that of white lilies). In the mouth, the pears are ripe, and the oak and vanillin play supporting roles, as they should.

The Benton Lane Pinot Gris may be a better wine - it certainly gets better reviews and higher scores - but with a cold roast chicken on a warm summer night, I prefer the Pinot Blanc.

$18 from the winery, and it's not widely available elsewhere. 190 cases made, all under screwcap.

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