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WTN:Vilmart,ZH,Colin-Deleger,De Malle,Coche,Chevillon,Heiss

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Gregg G

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WTN:Vilmart,ZH,Colin-Deleger,De Malle,Coche,Chevillon,Heiss

by Gregg G » Tue Aug 28, 2007 2:36 pm

Some breif notes from an amazing dinner last night at Providence in LA, CA. All notes are from memory. We ate at the chef's table with a view to the kitchen. Thanks to Bennett & Linda, Marshall & Diana and Lester for a great night. I won't, and cannot, detail the courses we had. Suffice it say, it was fantastic.

  • 1999 Vilmart Champagne Grand Cellier d'Or 1er Cru - France, Champagne (8/27/2007)
    Still young though quite refreshing. Not very complex at this stage in it's life. Good acidity and spine. Some citrus and biscuit on the nose. Enjoyable.
  • 1990 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer Vendange Tardive - France, Alsace, Wintzenheim, Alsace AOC (8/27/2007)
    Wow! Me like. What a wonderfully complex Riesling. The nose is mesmerizing starting out with a touch of diesel that eventually blows off leaving truffles, lychee, ginger and other components. Mouthfeel is viscous but not syrupy. Very little sweetness and lovely with food. The finish is forever. Just an amazing wine.
  • 2001 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (8/27/2007)
    Served at cellar temprature. The color is intensely golden and showing darker than it should. Somewhat shy nose with citrus and crushed flowers. With time, chopped nuts, butterscotch and orange peel emerge on the nose and palate. Not as rich bodied as I would have expected and the finish is a bit short. The experts with me tell me this wine was definateky prematurly aging. It did not taste maderized to my palate, but I agree it seemed evolved. Enjoyable but not great.
  • 2001 Château de Malle - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (8/27/2007)
    Not much to add to the many positive notes. Another winner from this great vintage. So many of the '01 Sauternes show a great balance between rich fruit and high acidity levels making these wines so enjoyable. I'm really liking the '01 Sauternes at this age. Yes they will gain complexity, but right now there's a youthful exuberance, a vigor, that is just so damn pleasurable.
  • 1982 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (8/27/2007)
    Showtime! This was absolutely stunning from the get-go. We had this in a flight with the '83. Phenomenal wine. Perfect fill. The color is light straw. The nose is as mezmerizing as any wine I've tried. Grilled nuts, brioche, butterscotch and lanolin all there in a glorious symphony. Showing incredible intensity and length. The acidity is more detectable than the '83 and seems like it could hold on for several more years. The table was utterly silenced during this flight save some ewws and ahhs. I cannot put into words how wonderful this wine really was. I am certain though, I will be thinking about it for a long time. And all from a lieu dit! To borrow a phrase, Profound!
  • 1983 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (8/27/2007)
    Served in a flight with the '82. Another beauty in terrific condition. Fill was again in the high neck. The color was slightly more golden than the '82 (nowhere nearly as dark as the '01 C-D earlier). The nose took longer to show it's stuff, eventually emerging with a similar profile, just less intensity. Bennett tells me the vintage was hot with some of the vineyards getting boytritis. I didn't perceive any boytritis in this wine, though the wine was had morel bodied and less elegance than the '82. Nontheless, another stunning wine.
  • 1988 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (8/27/2007)
    Decanted at the restaurant just prior to serving. Raspberries and earth on the nose with some thyme coming into play. The palate still has some chewy tannins, but not detracting for me. Good weight and length. Went very well with the lamb dish.
  • 1988 Frederic Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (8/27/2007)
    This wine seemed more evolved than the Chevillon. Nice tart cherry profile with spice and herbs. The tannins are almost resolved. This too paired nicely with the lamb. At this point my memory is fading. I hope my companions can add more insight.
  • 2001 Heiss Traminer Eiswein - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, Illmitz (8/27/2007)
    Interesting wine. Very floral nose. Nice density and acidity on the palate. Good length on the finish. My glass seemed to disappear quickly. I guess I liked it.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN:Vilmart,ZH,Colin-Deleger,De Malle,Coche,Chevillon,Heiss

by David M. Bueker » Tue Aug 28, 2007 2:40 pm

Great notes on what looks like a great night. I am similarly hooked on the 2001 Sauternes. I'm going to buy some 2004s just so I can drink something & keep my hands off the 2001s.
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JC (NC)

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Re: WTN:Vilmart,ZH,Colin-Deleger,De Malle,Coche,Chevillon,Heiss

by JC (NC) » Tue Aug 28, 2007 5:42 pm

Thanks for the notes. I admire Chevillon, have had good wine from Colin-Deleger and can only drool over the Coche-Dury (especially the one from '82.) Going to order some 2005 Sauternes now.
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Gregg G

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Re: WTN:Vilmart,ZH,Colin-Deleger,De Malle,Coche,Chevillon,Heiss

by Gregg G » Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:28 pm

JC (NC) wrote:...I...have had good wine from Colin-Deleger...


I bought just a few of the '01s after sampling a '90 that was excellent. The problem is the '01 we opened was prematurly oxidizing. The color was advanced and the nuttiness was coming through. Now the wine was very good, but I buy White Burg to age and CD is a major culprit in the premature oxidation issues plaguing many domaines beginning with the '95 vintage. I have put my $$ elsewhere...good thing since the '04/'05 pricing is out of hand.
Regards,
Gregg

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