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Approaching Nebbiolo

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MattThr

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Approaching Nebbiolo

by MattThr » Mon Aug 27, 2007 12:16 pm

Hi,

I've been fascinated by Nebbiolo since I first came across mention of it. The breathless, reverential way in which it's treated by so many wine critics just help add to the fascination. The trouble is that I'm not about to spend several hundred pounds on a case of Barolo and worry about trying to age it properly without a cellar on the off chance I'm going to properly appreciate it. Nor do I want to spend a sizeable sum of money on a ready-aged bottle for the same reason.

So how can I go about getting a taste of what it's all about?

I figure I have two options. I can either buy a "cheap" Nebbiolo from a lesser vinyard around 5-6 years old and try drinking it now - my local wine shop has one and there's a supermarket own label one I can get as well. Alternatively I've read that Barbera wines have a similar taste and feel but are cheaper and reach ripeness earlier.

Which would be recommended - or are there other alternatives?
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Ian Sutton

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Re: Approaching Nebbiolo

by Ian Sutton » Mon Aug 27, 2007 12:37 pm

Matt
One good option is the Produttori del Barbaresco. Whilst a co-operative, the standard is generally high and prices fair to generous.

Langhe Nebbiolo is quite a lot cheaper, but I find it a bit hit & miss. Ditto for Nebbiolo d'Alba (but with more misses to date). It's probably the easiest starting point, but may not provide the big spark.

A better option perhaps is to look out for a tasting where there are Barolo and Barbaresco (ideally with some age). Get along and think of the fee for the night as either a way of saving stocking your cellar with wines you don't like, or as downpayment on some pricey but good times ahead. Ideal cellaring might be measured in decades rather than years with some of them.

I really like Nebbiolo, but there can be some very expensive disappointments, so like Burgundy, don't buy too much initially and let your palate dictate whether it lights a flame in your soul.

I hope this helps & if you see any prospective bottles, then post what they are and we'll see if anyone's got any specific experience with the wine.

<<EDIT>> Just noticed you're in the UK. I could suggest a few merchants with decent selections, including some of the small Northern Piemonte DOC's containing Nebbiolo. If this is of interest I'll post a few links. <<EDIT>>

regards

Ian
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Re: Approaching Nebbiolo

by Dale Williams » Mon Aug 27, 2007 12:45 pm

(edited to add Ian beat me to it!)

Tasting Barbera will tell you about Barbera, but not about Nebbiolo. I don't find them that close.

Best option is probably your first idea. Taste a non-Barolo/Barbaresco Nebbiolo from a few years ago. If you can find it (common here, unsure re UK) try the Produttori del Barbaresco (the excellent co-op from Barbaresco) Langhe Nebbiolo. Usually a great deal, about $12-15 US (and their Barbarescos are well-priced, too, usually $20-25 for the base) . For a bit more money, Bruno Giacosa's Nebbiolo d'Alba is even better - but it benefits from some bottle age.

If not, another Nebbiolo di Langhe, or Ghemme, Gattinara, Nebbiolo d'Alba, or Colline Novarisi. I'd stay away from supermarket brands- producer, producer, producer.

Last option is to find an aged Barolo or Barbaresco from a good but not acclaimed vintage, such as '93 (or '95, though those are iffier).

All that being said, it's just a fact (IMHO) that the greatness of Nebbiolo is most truly apparent in mature bottles of Barolo or Barbaresco from good producers (which unfortunately are really skyrocketing in price, out of my reach). I drink and enjoy Langhe, Bourgogne, and Cotes de Castillon, but never can pretend that I am equaling Giacosa Barbaresco, Rousseau Chambertin, or Petrus.
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Re: Approaching Nebbiolo

by Ian Sutton » Mon Aug 27, 2007 1:04 pm

Matt
The following isn't an exhuastive list, but I've bought from all but Amphora and have no complaints. I've no connections to any of them. One site that may be of use is Toby & Richard Bailey's http://www.finewinediary.com as they seem to buy a reasonable amount from Raeburn and Valvona & Crolla (and write good clear TN's).

http://www.valvonacrolla.co.uk (stock produttori wines)

http://www.imperialwine.co.uk (stock some Spanna/Boca from Northern Piemonte)

http://www.amphora-wines.co.uk (again do some Northern Piemonte wines)

http://www.raeburnfinewines.co.uk (I can give a couple of recco's, but if there was one wine for me that could show aged Nebbiolo on a budget, it would be their Antonio Vallana e Figlio Boca DOC 1989 @ £9.99. It misses the depth of the better wines, but has the ethereal qualities that work for me). If you do buy from them, give the Rene Michel Vire Clesse 'vendage levroutee' 2002 a bash if you've an open mind as it's a late harvested Chardonnay and really quite some wine. Possibly the most interesting retail list I could think of for my tastes.

http://www.luvians.com (good range, but their website is rarely updated)

Happy to give a few recco's of other wines if you decide to go to one of them for a case - happy to comment on what we've tasted out of our purchases.

...or of course hop over on a low-cost airline to Turin and perhaps on to Alba. Head to the wine bars and sample widely (we try to :lol: :oops: ).

regards

Ian
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Re: Approaching Nebbiolo

by MattThr » Mon Aug 27, 2007 2:07 pm

Thanks very much for the suggestions.

My local wine shop has this potential candidate:
http://www.greatwesternwine.co.uk/produ ... id=160049D

No idea if anyone else has come across the producer but I recently tried an Arneis from the same producer and was somewhat underwhelmed, considering the price (WTN to follow after I've given it another chance) so I'm a little reluctant. Probably silly to judge the potential quality of a red after drinking one white, but there you go :)
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Re: Approaching Nebbiolo

by Ian Sutton » Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:20 pm

Matt
A very good wine shop IMO - we visited the Bath branch last year and it's not just interesting, but also having a comfy sofa there is great! Nothing in their Piemonte list jumps out though and I don't know the three producers. That's not to say they're not good - I just have no idea about them.

Roero seems on the up (it's in the same general area as Barolo and Barbaresco, but outside the vineyards defined for those wines and until recently seemed to have limited aspiration). It might be worth a pop, but maybe worth swinging by the shop to see if they're planning on having it on tasting (they seemed to have about 20-30 wines open when we went there, which is great to see even if the reds were a little warm - not great for showing off the aussie reds we tasted).

I can't think of any other local (to you) Italian specialists. I expected more of Chandos Deli as I'd seen their range described as one of the best for Italian wines and it was far from that.

If you just want to dabble then keep your eyes peeled locally (or on holidays) for stuff that looks interesting. If you're more keen I think ordering a self-chosen case by mail order is the way to go (very much IMO mind you!).

regards

Ian

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