WTN: 1998 Hirsch Grüner Veltliner Heiligenstein

[David M. Bueker]

Tasted Friday with Thai Squid Salad and Spicy Dumplings, two notoriously tough wine matches.


1998 was a bit of a tough vintage, so the wines are on a rapid evoluitonary track. This bottle was showing mature, but that only enhanced its ability to work with the food. Aromas of pepper, warm stones and green fruits. The palate was full and lush, with a creamy texture to carry apple, pea and pepper flavors. Quite delicious and drinking perfectly right now. This had as much body as most premier or grand cru White Burgundies I have tried, and it cost about $20, and was a better food match than any WHite Burg could have hoped for under the culinary circumstances.

David,
I think Hirsch did a better job in 1998 than most. For instance, the Gaisberg, Alte Reben Riesling is absolutely stellar these days and shows the propensity for some pretty extensive development in the coming years.
I think Hirsch's tendency to be a little higher in RS then many other Austrian producers gives them a leg up on tougher vintages.
Best, Jim

[David M. Bueker]

I have been pretty happy with the '98s from Hirsch. The other producer that I have enjoyed is Nigl, on the completely other end of the stylistic spectrum. The Hochacker Riesling is quite good.